My 1988 1000F seems to be ready for a clutch and I wanna do it "right".

Here is what I think I know:
Don't use Barnett Clutch cuz' they drag/creep - get OEM.
Get HD Clutch Springs or shim existing.
Replace judder spring thingy w/a full size steel plate(iow - order an extra one when i get the clutch parts)

I plan on getting the new springs and welcome anyone's advice on a brand to get.
I plan on ordering 9 fibers and 9 steels. all OEM Honda stuff.

Does anyone know what the judder spring actually does? Everyone I've talked to says to lose it but no one really seems to know what it's in there for.

Who's a good(quick shipping/decent pricing) vendor for what I need? I'm hoping to order and have it all in by next weekend....


Thanks for the help!

http://www.linearrow.com/main/hurricaneafter

 

I have a Barnett Clutch with HD Clutch springs. I have never had a problem with drag or creep.

It was a bit more effort to use the clutch and it engaged a bit quicker, but it all feels normal now. It has survived several thrashings.

IMHO they are mint.

 

Thanks - Maybe I should reconsider the Barnett. Does it have more plates in it than an OEM? Did you buy a kit?

 

It has the same no of plates as original. But where I got it from they dont sell em as a kit they just sell the plates individually and you just buy as many as you need.

Just remember to soak the plates in oil before you install them.

 

Hey:

I too have a Barnett clutch kit and it really has taken lots of abuse in my drag bike and the only real problem is really in bikes with Non hydro cluches as they are hard to pull in, for many people with the hd springs.


I have vesrah fiber replacement disks in my daily driver and they seemed of equal or better than OEM, and could rec them as well.

 

I wouldn't worry about using any name brand clutch fibres, including OEM. Those friction materials are old news and the industry is quite good at making them work. Chances are your stock plates are made by Vesra or some such. It's highly unlikely that the factory has a clutch producing line of its own and buys these on the market themselves. Just like bearings, tires, shocks, fasteners, etc.

The steels receive virtually no wear. It's heat, resultant hard spots, and distortion that ruins them. Unless the steels are blued from slipping the daylights out of the clutch as it went bad, REALLY excessive slipping, you shouldn't need to replace them. If they look good they most likely are. The same goes for springs. If the steels aren't blued, then it's highly unlikely that there was ever enough heat to damage the springs. Just flexing them doesn't hurt them. (Think valve springs.)

One possibility to change the springs to higher tension is if you've had trouble with slippage from using synthetic oil and are trying to fix that. Some of the older bikes didn't have that as a consideration when they were made. Just remember that the increased force can take its toll on parts over time, not the least of which is the rider's hand and wrist. Worst case, I've even seen cracked pressure plates from excessive spring force although not specifically on these bikes. Hope that helps.