I got a new battery and regulator/rectifier to try and fix a starting problem but it hasn't worked. Does anybody elses bike sound like it is firing up straight away then dies? It seems to stay started if I hold the button in for a moment longerand let the starter motor and the motor run together?

The next thing I'm going to check is the fuel pump.

 

Does it push start easy?

 

Sounds exactly like mine used to until I did the value clearances. Now half choke and press the starter wait 1/2 a minute the no choke and idling.

 

Yes it might be zero lash on intake valves even though the valves and valve seats on the Hurricane are very hard and stable. The intake seats are however softer than the exhaust seats, so they will be hammered down with time and the lash will successively decrease. If there are intake valves with just almost zero lash the bike will be hard to start and the very first seconds after a start the valves heats up quick and the lash becomes zero or even negative. After a little while, when the heat in the headsbuild up, the cylinder head expansion becomes dominant and there could be some lash again which makes the bike to run normal. Of course there could be another fault, but this is the mechanism in case the intake valves are too tight.

 

I discussed the problem with my shop and ended up getting them to do a full tune. The end result is the carbs were all out of whack and the idle was set too low. The valve clearances and tollerances were fine. The compression is supposed to be between 150 and 205 (not sure if they said psi or kPa) and mine are 125, 130 , 120 and 125... one of them suggested I start looking to trade it in in the next 3 to 6 months, the other said she'll be right, a demo speed triple I was eyeing off last year has just been traded back in so I've asked for a $ to trade across.

I think the most likely next step is nothing... It'sproperly tuned and running as wellconsidering the compression problem. If I decide to keep it, I guess I'll set aside some time to remove the engine myself so that all I have to pay for will be the actual re-ringing, etc, rather than the time consuming yet relatively DIYable extraction and reinstallation proceedures.

The engine has 130,000km (80,000miles) on it and must be due for its second 60,000km CCT soon.

 

hey triangle

had the same problem

try pulling on the wires to the fuel regulator some stock ones had shorting issues after a time

a good pull and wiggle just in front of the regulator

hope it works cheap fix

 

Triangle, before you do anything, find out for sure what your compressing readings are. If they gave you the readings in PSI, 125-130-120-125 are readings from a healthy engine. I would give it a score of 9 on a scale of 10. When the compressing is too high the engine will nock. When it is too low the engine will be hard starting and burn rich and you will notice a big loss of power.

On the other hand, dealers are the last of the horse traders. They may be interested in your bike and they will make money on the bike they want to sell you. They have nothing to lose by making a trade with you. If they thought your bike was a basket case they would tell you to sell it privately.

 

Following the tune, it's started perfectly the last 2 times i've started it from cold.

Ijust checked the conversion between psi and kPa, 130psi is 840kpa which can't possibly me mistakenly interchanged so it must be psi.

I'm going to look for details on what the compression should be in a 1kF... anyone feel free to tell me what it is... I'm starting with the shops claim of 150 to 205psi, and tb2's assertion that 130psi is 9 out of 10!


Here's my theory... anyone tell me I'm wrong...

Atmospheric pressure is 101,325Pa, CBR1000F specifications 1:10.5 compression ratio = compression test should find 1,063kPa which is also 155psi.

my compression test is 125psi, therefore the compression is 1:8.5

How low can the compression get before starting becomes a problem? 1:7?

This is a new question...

 

Keep in mind that most compression testers arenĀ“t accurate, if you go to another mecanical shop and use a different brand of tester you might get a different reading. If you pour in a little dash of oil in the spark plug hole before you do a second test (with same tester) and get a higher reading your piston rings are probably worn. If your compression is still to low, even after checking with a second tester, you might have bad valve sealings. The readings should be between 149.205 psi so the shop`s right there.
Please correct me if IĀ“m wrong.

 

Triangle, I think you are right. I forgot that the 1KF is 10.5 :1
I have rebuilt many 8.5:1 engines and those numbers would be great as they are all within 5 PSI of each other.

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