some of you may remember the problems i have had getting my hurricane to start. i have eliminated problems and decided it is the alternator damper clutch as per the following
www.stu.co.nz/cbr1000fix
however, having followed this procedure i have got to the stage where i have to replace the alternator shaft through the damper and have hit a snag.

i can get it in place and the alternator base flange is tightened up fully but the threaded end of the alternator shaft is not protruding through the bearing enough for me to put the shaft flange nut back on (even though the housing is tightened all the way). where is the rest of the shaft going and why cant I get the shaft through all the way.

i am at the end of my tether with this.
cheers
grim

 

OK
Here's the problem - it may look like the windings etc etc are firmly fixed to the shaft.They may be, but you need to:
Remove the stator cover, put a block of wood on top of the probe which has the bearing on the end, and give it a hard smack - the shaft will move and you'll have enough thread to finish the job. I'm surprised you were able to get the stator cover on properly with so much shaft inside it......
I'm assuming you used the socket to line up the thread on the starter end so that it slipped into place when the tensioner pulled on it.....?

If I see a smiley in your response, I'll know you did it.......

 

yes m8, used the socket trick but the shaft is simply not protruding enough. is the stator cover the outer alternator cover because i did not put this back on. this was gonna be the next job after i had refitted the nut on the end of the shaft
perhaps i am not hittng the shaft hard enough to drive it home

 

is the stator cover the outer alternator cover YES
perhaps i am not hitting the shaft hard enough to drive it home HIT IT !

Put a hammer handle or something on the end of the shaft, so you don't hit the bearing, and HIT IT.maybe it's needing a little oil and Maxwell's magic touch ! hehe

 

at the moment the end of alternator shaft is slightly off centre part way through the bearing underneath the inspection cover (as it should be according to the guide which says this means that the tensioner is doing its job). do i still need to put the socket over the end of the shaft to drive the it all the way through? I fear that if I do not do this a good whack on the other end of the shaft will break the bearing assembly.
however I hope that I don't have to remove the shaft again as it is a pig to put back together.
thanks for the help to this point

 

do i still need to put the socket over the end of the shaft to drive the it all the way through? I fear that if I do not do this a good

You MAY be able to wiggle the shaft so that it clears the lip by using something to hold the shaft in the right position. If you used the right 10mm socket, it should go all the way through into the small "box" that holds the nut and end of the shaft.Something thin that will go under the end of the shaft in the box and lift it may do it.
Only other option is take it out again, and refit - a pain, but it has to be straight to go in all the way.

 

thank you for the info. i will let you know how i get on

 

many thanks for all the help. i followed your advice here and guess what?
She lives!!
after much persuading the shaft eventually mated with the ballrace and once built back up the bike started on the button time after time.

unfortunately however as my brother in law was tightening the stator casing bolts, he overtightened them and cracked the case in 2 places. i now have a minor oil leak and will need to source a new stator flange housing thingy.

however, the advice on here has cured my starting issue and i can now save up for a new damper safe in the knowledge that this was the root of my problem.
thanks again
grimreaper
(happy amateur mechanic)

 

Good, and bad news - your brother has just cost you a $220 replacement part.........
The stator cover is a sealed unit and you can't just buy the cover, all the windings come with it.....................only other option is to buy a cover with trashed electrics and fit the new cover to your electrics, but if you aren't a skilled techie, or very lucky, it prob won't work. It has been done, by my friend Kaska in Estonia - send him a PM at "Kaska"
Sorry to be the bearer of such bad tidings...............

 

it is not the stator cover itself that is broken it is the casing that this bolts to which in turn bolts to the engine casing. i am hoping to source this from a motorcycle breakers locally. (i am enquirng today).

the engine still starts fine now, and the battery is charging at 14.1v@5000rpm which is within normal parameters so I am happy that no electrical damage has been done. it is just that I have this damn oil leak now. it is more of an ooze rather than a proper bad leak but i know it is still gonna me £££

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot.../m2019sch33522

the above schematic shows the part that is broken as part number 2