Will it idle without choke now, if so what RPM?

Did you sync the carbs with the choke on?

These carbs work by enriching the fuel mixture rather than the choke restricting the air.

Don't forget the idle speed adjuster **** at the left hand side of the carb bank, I think you're almost there, it's probably just a case of jiggling the two.

 

"Will it idle without choke now, if so what RPM?" -> 1.2K RPM

"Did you sync the carbs with the choke on?" It was half way on when i first calibrated as that was the only way i can run my bike. If i take the choke off then it would die.


I just try to do this again this morning.
Choke on -> Press start button -> started right up - Revs 13-12K RPM
Checked the motion pro carb tuner -> Carb#4 was off compare to the others -> tighten up a bit to match the others.
Pull the throttle a bit -> bike rev up to 6-5K RPM -> It stayed there for awhile so i just shut if off.

Waited a few seconds
Choke off -> Press start button -> Bike started
Put the choke on -> Bike rev to 6-5k RPM again

If i take the black idle **** completely off then it starts slowly down below 1K RPM then it dies.
Choke on -> press start button -> doesn't want to start. If i give it throttle then it does start but slowly dies again.

I also think my throttle cables are taut. What's a good play room? Also, i don't know if i put the throttle cable correct. The longer cable is the one that pulls the throttle? Or in other words the one closer to the air box element. Shorter cable to the other end farther than the air box?


Thanks

 

Calibrate ? You mean sync with a carb syncing tool ?

 

yes that's what i meant. I wrote that half sleep and no cup of coffee yet...
I have a motion pro carb sync.

 

choke off, idleing @ 1200 - 1250 fully warmed up - sync all to carb #2 with all airbox
gear installed including elbows and filter - everything tight - do the crank balancer
right after.

 

Thanks Sprock.
I should sadly say that i gave up on trying to get it sync. I asked my local shop to just do it for me. I found myself not having time to work on it, yet dying to ride it soon so i figured i can pay someone to do it for me. It ran me $90 and i should have it back today or tomorrow the latest. Can't wait to have it back!!!!

In the bright side i learned how to do my carbs and thanks to all of you who assisted me on the task. That saved me some cash too.

 

Hope that works out for you jlpinedas.

The aim after all is to ride, not spend the whole time tinkering.

Enjoy her when you get her back!

 

Right - except of course when there's raining cats and dogs all winter
long in the UK or 6 foot of snow outside in Maine and there's
damn all else to do


So how's she running now man ? Post up a vid and show us

 

Got bike back last night...not good...
Here's us my explanation:
Start bike choke on -> idles 1.2K rpm...after a few seconds it goes up to 3K rpm then after another sec goes up to 4K rpm...
Slowly take choke off then RPM goes down
Take choke off completely bike idles -> 500RPM

Bike is somewhat hot bc it's been running...pull choke in start bike same thing as when started cold



Since it was idling at 500RPM I turned in the idle know one full turn clockwise then idle increments to 1.2K RPM which I read is normal for this bike. Pull the throttle then bike when to 5K RPM and it would not go down. I waited about a min and still didn't go down. I turned it off.


Now bike is at normal temp and choke off then pressed the start button and it started.

Returned the idle **** screw to it was originally, started bike with choke on. Now it was idling at 1.2RPM. Pulled the throttle and it would still hang up at 3K RPM but it would go down normally sometimes and others it would stay hang up but slowly go down to normal RPM. Here is a video where it does not go down at all.


Questions:
Would it be that the diaphragm are not clean enough and getting stuck? That's why the revs hang up? Here is a link of how the diaphragm worked after "cleaning them". I used carb cleaning to clean them, should had i used WD40? This video was taking right before i put the carbs back on. Should i remove them again and clean the diaphragm?


Why when I pressed the clutch my revs would go up to? I have no video of this as it only happens when riding.

I told the mechanic that I set the air pilot screw at 2 1/2 turns out. He said perhaps to give it another 1/4 - 1/2 turn out. If this is true (I need your expertise) do I need to use this tool http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GV..._email_1p_1_ti or can I use this one? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WJ...pi=SL500_SX125

It'll be possible thunderstorm and probably rain this weekend so it'll be ok for me to work on this bike again.

As for the carb sync, I don't know if the mechanic did a good job. I do know that know the RPM gauge its steady then before so I think he did good...

 

OK looks like we have some progress here

The rev's hanging that way can only be two things as far as I can see.

1. Throttle cables fouled/badly routed. I doubt that is the case, as this is happening with the tank raised, though it will be worth a quick check.

2. The diaphragm pistons sticking. In the third video the revs stay high even with the throttle fully closed, indicating that they are stuck partially open.

I would clean them again. Before you re-fit the diaphragms, ensure they move freely. Each one(black piston), should drop into the body of the carb without sticking or catching on the sides at all.

Don't get any carb cleaner on the delicate diaphragm itself, but make sure the piston is clean as a whistle and the cylinder it slides into.