CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Runs at half choke :-(

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Old May 15, 2013 | 05:41 PM
  #31  
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**** - might want to grab a carb body section for that if looking for perfection

or

lightly thin coat the thread of the pilot with permatex #1 sealant the hard set brown
biege colored one that holds up to gasoline too.....cheaper option that will work 100%

Then screw in finger tight and let it set for a day or 2

The permatex number 1 stuff can be used to seal bowls too - - have two sets done
from last year with it !

Getting closer eh ????
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 10:30 PM
  #32  
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i bought a new air pilot a while ago because i stripped the head of that one a bit and i replaced it yesterday. I compared the old one with the new one and the new one was loose which was the one that turn around. I put the old one back in and all good to go.

I did load the carbs before putting them in and I'm glad i follow directions you guys provided. Carb 2 and 3 leaked just a bit from one side of the carb. Carb1 and 4 are good. I removed the gasket and I'm soaking them in hand cleaner in hopes that i may sponged them out. However, i'm going to see if my local motorcycle shop has the motoseal you recommend. I did find a shop an hour from here that has two gasket set 1 which is what i need if i want to replaced them. I'm considering on making the trip or have them overnight it.

I just wanted to ride tomorrow....Thanks for all the support and advices.

Can't find a motorseal sealer but found this, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000DZD8MO would it do the trick as well as the other one?

Order the motoseal should be in tomorrow. However, my local shop told me to leave the carbs loaded for hours if not today and keep constantly checking the leaking. I noticed no leak anymore but minimum. I know it's somewhat wet but not as it used it. Their reasoning was that since the gasket were dry they need time to get soaked and restored. If leaking didn't stop then they said to find new gasket. Giving that they don't leak as they used to. I'm going to venture to use the permatex and keep checking it for a few days.

But we are making progress. Now to study as I have a final tonight. Hope everyone is having a great day!!!

Checked agin for leaks and there was barely one drop on the screw that was leaking before. Motoseal got delivered today. I'm going to use it on that gasket just to add a peace of mind.

My local shop did mention that the gasket may leak as they had been dried for a week now but to let it seat for a day with fuel in the carbs as for the gasket to soak up and return to its original position.

Doing this tonight and hopefully will putting bike together tomorrow.

Finally sometime to work on her. I coated the gaskets with some motoseal and made sure nothing would get inside of the bowl. I will let it dry and tomorrow afternoon will bench test them again.

I set the air pilot screws 2 1/2 out. Is that correct?

Idle **** (big black ****) on the side of the carb, i set it all the the way until it just touches the throttle. Is that how it should be?
Here is a pic: http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/...c13e2ebe8a.jpg

Carbs no leaking any more. Put them back in. Battery back in. Trying to start it doesn't. It seems as it's starving fuel. I moved the idle **** a bit up and nothing. One more thing i can find neutral. I guess i have to roll it around a bit until gear moves around.

With key on, dashboard says tank almost empty. I opened the tank i can see fuel in it. I'm going to check the fuel line if it is not kinked somewhere. I just added a inline fuel filter as well.

Any thoughts on why it could be not starting?

Time to start the bike!

Ignition key to ON position, only the sidekick light is on. Neutral and Oil light off. I knew my bike was in first gear when i started to work on it. I played with the shift gear until i knew it was in neutral, yet neutral light did not come on. Try to start nothing. I brought up the side stand (kickstand) press clutch, the it started and it pushed forward as if it was in first gear.
Choke is all the way on, however, i notice that when i pull the choke all the way on to the bottom it recoil a bit backwards. Could it be i tighten the choke cables too much not leaving it room for play?

Why would the lights not come one? A problem with the neutral switch or kickstand switch?
 

Last edited by Sprock; May 20, 2013 at 08:23 AM. Reason: edit buttons work
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Old May 20, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #33  
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vacuum line to the petcock attached ?
 
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Old May 20, 2013 | 11:10 AM
  #34  
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Vacuum line is the small one going to the left side of carb #1, if so then yes it's attached. If i put the tank in upward position then bike starts fine with choke on. Once i take some choke out it starts dying. The idle know (black one on the side of carb#1) is just barely touching the throttle, Is that how i had to set it up or does it need to lift it somewhat? Image here: http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/...c13e2ebe8a.jpg

I installed a inline fuel filter and i think the fuel line is getting kinked somewhere so that's why when the fuel tank is down it doesn't get enough fuel. I may need to shorten the fuel line or place it better so it doesn't get kinked.

As for the neutral issue, i have no idea where to start. Could the installation of the throtle cables have something to do? Is it even possible to install the send or return cable in the wrong place? Perhaps i tighten them the much that there is not play room.
 
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Old May 20, 2013 | 08:57 PM
  #35  
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Yeah and you can get a simple brass marine fuel line 45 degree elbow to address any kink.
I find they work well an 1 1/2 out from the petcock

Warm the bike up fully on choke then off with the choke and up with the idle adjuster
to see if it will hold a steady idle at around 1250 rpm, air filter in everything tightened
up good

Your throttle cable should a a few mm's of healthy slack and not be to taut.

check the neutral switch cable on the right side of the crankcase same for oil
pressure
 
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Old May 20, 2013 | 10:35 PM
  #36  
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Thanks for the suggestions Sprock!!!

I will try to find a brass elbow gas line.

I just installed the air filter today and close the air element box as well. I will try to do this tomorrow after work. Take off choke up with the idle know. I don't know when it was the last time this bike was sync. Should I try to sync first then play with the idle ****?

I loosen up the throttle cables that now it does return back to position when I pulled it and tank down in place. I still think it should do more so I will loosen it up tomorrow as well.
I read one post in another thread to lube them. What can I use to do that?

Figure out the issue with the neutral light. There is a connector right by the air filter on the right side of the bike. I forgot to plugged that one in. Once I did so, lights (oil and neutral) came on. Bike started with kickstand down and a neutral position.

I appreciate the advises and time you out into helping me!!! Bike is almost getting there
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 09:02 AM
  #37  
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Sounds good - getting there - when warm use idle adjuster to hold the idle then smooth
things put even more with syncing at idle - then adjust the idle again - keep going until
it's spot on
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 01:54 PM
  #38  
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I will try that either tonight or tomorrow night. This bike runs with choke half way on otherwise it dies. That's one of the reason why i decided to do the carburetors so i know they are clean.

I would create another post for this, but for some reason it gives me an error when trying to create a new thread.

Also, i did a search on mityvac and i found that you may have one. I never used it and since i got all the fairings out might as well bleed them. You mentioned you wold create a how-to with pics and such. Did you? I would be very interested in it. I never used a mityvac before nor bleed my brakes or clutch. Lots of people say "master cylinder" or "slave cylinder" then "bleeder nipple". That's terms are foreign for me. I noticed some "plugs" near the calipers and the clutch unit( Lower left side of the bike) which i assume are the "nipples". Any indication would be appreciate it.
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jlpinedas
I noticed some "plugs" near the calipers and the clutch unit( Lower left side of the bike) which i assume are the "nipples". Any indication would be appreciate it.
You assume correctly jlpinedas

Bleeding the clutch and brake lines is a simple process. There are videos on Youtube showing you how to do it. But basically, you pump fresh fluid through the lines using the master cylinders (brake and clutch) and clutch/brake levers. Make sure you keep everything topped up so you don't get any air into the system.
 
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Old May 23, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #40  
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Should I calibrate with choke on or off? I had an issue with my bike running at half choke only, anything less than that and it will die. Now I'm trying to calibrate it and now I can take the choke off and it keeps running however if I turn it off and put choke in the bike revs to 5000rpm then slowly goes down I just shut it off. Any ideas where there could be an issue? I just cleaned te carbs so I think I'm good there. Please help.
 
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