Since I have replaced the fork springs with progressive springs, and things have become much firmer in the front end, I have had som difficulties dialing in the rear suspension.

Now the rear preload is set 14 clicks from max, but I can't figure out the rebound...

Where is the rebound set at max? and what is a propper setting for it? (I'm 82 kg)

 

The rear preload should be set so the rear is down about 30 to 40 mm'swith you sitting on the bike. The reference is when the rear is fully extended, and the measurement is done in level with the rear axle.

The rebound damping should be set so it will take about 1 second or a little lessfor it to return, after the bike has been pressed down. If the shock is in shape, the rebound attenuationcan be adjusted in a wide range. In one end (loose)the bike will jump up and overshoot (oscillate), and in the other end it will take several seconds for the rear to rise. I could not adjust the rebound on my Cane since the adjuster was seized.

 

There are lots of articles on the net about suspension set up. If you are interested I have a good one in pdf format. Basic but it explains how to set it up to suit you. Pm me if interested & i'll email it to you.

 

But where is the rebound set at its max? When I turn far right (clockwise) or far left (counterclockvise) ???

 

If I remember right there is a F(firm) and S(soft) marking beside the adjusterthat shows the directions with an arrow. If this is not visible, just turn it in any direction and you will feel what happens when the rear returns after being pushed down. Be a bit careful if the adjuster is seized, some CRC 5-56 and time will make it easier, the adjuster is quite fragile and can easily be destroyed, don't ask med how I know...

Info about turning directions for hard/soft is here https://cbrforum.com/m_471455/tm.htm

 

Thanks R1000

A quick and usefull answer as always

BTW with the new progressive springs in the forks, sag is no more than 1 cm... That ain't much.

 

10 mm sag, ifthid is withyou on thebike, soundsto little. In case it was e.g.another 20 mm with the stock springs the bike is less turn-willing now. It will also be lessprecise in holding a good line thrue corners and not so responsive to small steering commands. I think I would cut the spacers to get the desired front sagto about 30 mm's, or change the position of the fork legs in the tripple clamp. I'm definitely no chassi expert, and therfore just follow Ohlins setting recommendations that are:







[IMG]local://upfiles/4562/806F80C65AD346FEBB0F98890D921F4B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thanks for the setting recommendations ,R1000 !

 

Well, the front is a lot harder now than before and with a lot less sag, but combined with new steering head bearings, it now steers a lot easyer than before. It feels like a VFR in the way it rolls into a bend, and I use very little input to the bars when change in direction is wanted.

I can't alter the sag in the forks though, because with the new progressive spring kit, the spacer had to be removed, or else the springs were so tight that they wouldnt go in. (I havn't replaced the springs and bearings myself though. God bless my mechanic). So altering the front sag without changing the springs again is not possible.

But the front isn't a problem, because the progressive springs behave fine, and the damping is fine, but it's getting the rear dialed in to match the front that is a bit tricky now.

 

Just a thought from when I fitted my progressive springs - Should the spacers be used ?

After fighting with my new springs ( Hagon ) and finaly getting them fitted - I also had almost no sag.

Then I contacted the manufacturer to question the rate supplied and was told NOT to use the spacers
with their springs.

Took out the spacers and the sag was as per the Ohlins suggestions.

Bike rides great now (1991 FL model)

I,m 84kg.