Probably a too generic question: engine revision or not ?
#1
08-19-2010, 05:49 PM
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Probably a too generic question: engine revision or not ?
Hey guys,
I'm a proud owner of an old lady, a 1989 'cane.
I just bought it last month, and I have the felling I'm getting addicted.
She is pretty stock, but not mint.
I've bought her with 70'000 Km at the odometer, and 3 weeks later it displays 82'000km for around 1'000$ (1'200 CHF), with new tires, new brakes and a new battery, and the "legal checkup" (expertise, in French) had been done in May, which means she did went to a service before that.
I thought that the deal was ok. The guy felt with it, the fairing is in bad shape, but having removed the fairing, I could see that under it, everything was ok.
No rust, no marks of shocks, no external signs of wearing.
I went for a couple of km that day, and the bike was really running fine.
Of course, I spent a lot of time getting infos about this bike, and particularly about the cam chain.
I do hear it, but sometimes, I even hear it when the engine is warm, but it change given the shift I'm in.
This have me thinking that maybe the alternator chain could be wearing too.
But my question today is more broad.
I don't know the history of the bike. I'm at least the 3rd owner, and the previous one had it just for 2 month, the time he needed to get his license.
I've visited 2 mechanics.
The official local Honda dealer told me not to do anything pricey on it, that it wasn't worth it.
That if the cam chain + tensioner was to be changed, it would cost more than the price I've bought the bike (
), because he needed to take the engine out of the frame and disassemble it.
No need to say that I was not impressed, especially after having closely examined the pictures michealparks's took in his how-to.
So I went to see another mechanic, that runs a small garage, and is a rider too. It appears he's an ex CBR rider, so he does know that model well.
Talking with him, he told me not to do anything, which seems again a bit odd to me.
His CBR went 60'000 Km with the rattling, and he never did anything. Told me that as long as I would not drive hard, there should be no problems.
But again, I've read several times that the CCT should be replaced around 70'000. Now, I don't know if it's 70'000 Km, or miles....
Anyway, my broad question is: what do you think would be the average life expectancy of our girls?
At first, I bought it thinking that even if it break after 2 years, I would at least had a cheap ride (500$ per year, I can live with that).
But as I ride more and more, I get to like her, much. And I'd like her to get going as far as I can.
So, is 100'000 Km, or even 150'000 Km (as I have read) a dream, in your opinion.
And should this CCT be changed, or not? The Honda mechanic told me that he heard the rattling (the bike was ridden for 20 minutes before that) but that it was really light.
As I said, I don't know how the first owner drove her. But looking at the general condition, it looks like it was well maintained.
Yeah, I know, I tend to write too much.
Thanks for reaching the bottom of the post
I'm a proud owner of an old lady, a 1989 'cane.
I just bought it last month, and I have the felling I'm getting addicted.
She is pretty stock, but not mint.
I've bought her with 70'000 Km at the odometer, and 3 weeks later it displays 82'000km for around 1'000$ (1'200 CHF), with new tires, new brakes and a new battery, and the "legal checkup" (expertise, in French) had been done in May, which means she did went to a service before that.
I thought that the deal was ok. The guy felt with it, the fairing is in bad shape, but having removed the fairing, I could see that under it, everything was ok.
No rust, no marks of shocks, no external signs of wearing.
I went for a couple of km that day, and the bike was really running fine.
Of course, I spent a lot of time getting infos about this bike, and particularly about the cam chain.
I do hear it, but sometimes, I even hear it when the engine is warm, but it change given the shift I'm in.
This have me thinking that maybe the alternator chain could be wearing too.
But my question today is more broad.
I don't know the history of the bike. I'm at least the 3rd owner, and the previous one had it just for 2 month, the time he needed to get his license.
I've visited 2 mechanics.
The official local Honda dealer told me not to do anything pricey on it, that it wasn't worth it.
That if the cam chain + tensioner was to be changed, it would cost more than the price I've bought the bike (
), because he needed to take the engine out of the frame and disassemble it.No need to say that I was not impressed, especially after having closely examined the pictures michealparks's took in his how-to.
So I went to see another mechanic, that runs a small garage, and is a rider too. It appears he's an ex CBR rider, so he does know that model well.
Talking with him, he told me not to do anything, which seems again a bit odd to me.
His CBR went 60'000 Km with the rattling, and he never did anything. Told me that as long as I would not drive hard, there should be no problems.
But again, I've read several times that the CCT should be replaced around 70'000. Now, I don't know if it's 70'000 Km, or miles....
Anyway, my broad question is: what do you think would be the average life expectancy of our girls?
At first, I bought it thinking that even if it break after 2 years, I would at least had a cheap ride (500$ per year, I can live with that).
But as I ride more and more, I get to like her, much. And I'd like her to get going as far as I can.
So, is 100'000 Km, or even 150'000 Km (as I have read) a dream, in your opinion.
And should this CCT be changed, or not? The Honda mechanic told me that he heard the rattling (the bike was ridden for 20 minutes before that) but that it was really light.
As I said, I don't know how the first owner drove her. But looking at the general condition, it looks like it was well maintained.
Yeah, I know, I tend to write too much.
Thanks for reaching the bottom of the post
Last edited by tripy; 08-19-2010 at 06:24 PM.
#2
08-19-2010, 07:57 PM
Administrator - Retired
As far as getting 100-150klms out of it, it's definitely possible.
Many of the folks here have 80,000+km and a few that I know of have over 100,000. (130k, 160k, etc)
However, on the CCT.....it's really hard to tell when or if it will go completely out. If you intend to put many more miles on the bike, you may want to think about replacing the tensioner and chain at some point, but nobody can say for sure.
Many of the folks here have 80,000+km and a few that I know of have over 100,000. (130k, 160k, etc)
However, on the CCT.....it's really hard to tell when or if it will go completely out. If you intend to put many more miles on the bike, you may want to think about replacing the tensioner and chain at some point, but nobody can say for sure.
#3
08-19-2010, 08:51 PM
Senior Member
Like with any bike, whether to spend $$ or not depends on how much you like it and how much spare folding stuff you've got lying about. I don't really know how anybody, including the manufacturer, can give you a definate km that anything should be changed since it would vary vastly with different treatment. I'd just get to know the bike and see how it goes. If it rattled heaps when warm and burned oil you could be sure it had been abused but if it purrs along and doesn't use much oil it's fair to assume it's been loved appropriately. If you're really worried about the camchain pull the cover off and have a look. Turn the motor over by hand and inspect the whole thing. Grab hold of it right over a sprocket in several places and see if you can pull it away from the teeth at all. I've never heard of one snapping (has anybody else?) on one of these and I think it's just a case of when it gets too noisy you'll know.
By the way, I know what you mean about how these bikes get under your skin. I bought mine with a view to keeping it a couple of years maximum then getting something a bit newer...that was almost five years ago and I've no plans to get rid of it
.
There's a saying 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'.
By the way, I know what you mean about how these bikes get under your skin. I bought mine with a view to keeping it a couple of years maximum then getting something a bit newer...that was almost five years ago and I've no plans to get rid of it
.There's a saying 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'.
#4
08-19-2010, 09:07 PM
Administrator - Retired
I don't really know how anybody, including the manufacturer, can give you a definate km that anything should be changed since it would vary vastly with different treatment.
But to say you definitely won't have a failure or jump time can't be done. Nothing is for certain.
#5
08-20-2010, 02:35 AM
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Thanks fort the insight guys.
That I know, and I don't ask for certainty.
It's just that as 2 mechanics tend to say that I should not make any "heavy" work on the bike, I was wondering what life span regular users would give to this beauty.
I think I'll let her to the second mechanic during winter, and ask him to replace the cct and chain. That way, I'm sure of what state it's in.
As for oil consumption, I did an oil change this week.
But I rode for 2'000 km last week (holidays, yay!) and didn't had to add oil after that.
So it seems to confirm that she was well cared.
Oh that, she does....
But to say you definitely won't have a failure or jump time can't be done. Nothing is for certain.
It's just that as 2 mechanics tend to say that I should not make any "heavy" work on the bike, I was wondering what life span regular users would give to this beauty.
I think I'll let her to the second mechanic during winter, and ask him to replace the cct and chain. That way, I'm sure of what state it's in.
As for oil consumption, I did an oil change this week.
But I rode for 2'000 km last week (holidays, yay!) and didn't had to add oil after that.
So it seems to confirm that she was well cared.
if it purrs along and doesn't use much oil it's fair to assume it's been loved appropriately.
#6
08-21-2010, 04:18 PM
Senior Member
#7
08-22-2010, 06:33 PM
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Hi,
I think that the fact of spent money in the motorbike depends on a lot of factors:
-The money you invested on the motorbike.
-The years you expect to ride her.
-The available amount of money that you have
.
The most important reasons why I bought mine, is to have a good motorbike for a reasonable amount of money, and that this bike allow to you being repaired by yourself. It is not very difficult if you have some mechanical aknowledgements with the help of the lot of info that is on the internet. In this way you save a lot of money (and spend a lot of time, of course).
One other good chance that this motorbike gives to the owner is the low cost of the spares....., even you can buy a complete engine system for a few hundred of dollars.
This motorbike is addictive. The more you ride it, the most you think in keep her forever..... but of course, there must always be a reasonable step between the heart and the brain.
I think that it is completely true that does not worth while to spent in repairs more that the motorbike worth. This money will never be revalued in your machine. Try to learn with patience how to repair it by yourself, and you will keep your machine for long long time just for a few dollars.
Anyway 80.000 kms are not too many for this engines.
In Spain, some guys are checking with the additive Metal Lube for motorbikes. The colleagues that have used this stuff have found that in the very moment that they have added the Metal Lube to the oil, the camshaft chain has stopped the noise forever more. Them all are very satisfied and does not harms the cluth at all, and is free of graphyte.
I have not checked it out because my machine only has 26.000 kms and everything works like new, but I think that may be a cheap and easy way to avoid to open the engine. Here below the link.
http://www.metallube.es/page/_C3VTDD...9HBSS5vCA9KMtb
V's
I think that the fact of spent money in the motorbike depends on a lot of factors:
-The money you invested on the motorbike.
-The years you expect to ride her.
-The available amount of money that you have
.The most important reasons why I bought mine, is to have a good motorbike for a reasonable amount of money, and that this bike allow to you being repaired by yourself. It is not very difficult if you have some mechanical aknowledgements with the help of the lot of info that is on the internet. In this way you save a lot of money (and spend a lot of time, of course).
One other good chance that this motorbike gives to the owner is the low cost of the spares....., even you can buy a complete engine system for a few hundred of dollars.
This motorbike is addictive. The more you ride it, the most you think in keep her forever..... but of course, there must always be a reasonable step between the heart and the brain.
I think that it is completely true that does not worth while to spent in repairs more that the motorbike worth. This money will never be revalued in your machine. Try to learn with patience how to repair it by yourself, and you will keep your machine for long long time just for a few dollars.
Anyway 80.000 kms are not too many for this engines.
In Spain, some guys are checking with the additive Metal Lube for motorbikes. The colleagues that have used this stuff have found that in the very moment that they have added the Metal Lube to the oil, the camshaft chain has stopped the noise forever more. Them all are very satisfied and does not harms the cluth at all, and is free of graphyte.
I have not checked it out because my machine only has 26.000 kms and everything works like new, but I think that may be a cheap and easy way to avoid to open the engine. Here below the link.
http://www.metallube.es/page/_C3VTDD...9HBSS5vCA9KMtb
V's
Last edited by LITUSCC; 08-22-2010 at 06:46 PM.
#8
08-23-2010, 02:12 AM
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In Spain, some guys are checking with the additive Metal Lube for motorbikes. The colleagues that have used this stuff have found that in the very moment that they have added the Metal Lube to the oil, the camshaft chain has stopped the noise forever more. Them all are very satisfied and does not harms the cluth at all, and is free of graphyte.
I have not checked it out because my machine only has 26.000 kms and everything works like new, but I think that may be a cheap and easy way to avoid to open the engine. Here below the link.
I have not checked it out because my machine only has 26.000 kms and everything works like new, but I think that may be a cheap and easy way to avoid to open the engine. Here below the link.
Most of them can seems to do good at first, but are detrimental to your bike in the long run.
I could not remember exactly the reasons, but looking a bit, I found that:
http://admin.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/...opic-id=388269
A number of ‘add-on’ additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as ‘Xxtralube ZX-1’, ‘Metol FX-1’, ‘PPL Anti-Friction’ and ‘Activ-8’.All such products share the following characteristics with ‘X-1R Friction Eliminator’:-
1) They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.
2) They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)
3) X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.
4) When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.
5) Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made.
If you look at the safety sheets for activ8, it even says:
HAZARDOUS COMBUSTION PRODUCTS: Hydrogen chloride may be evolved above 200° c. Ok so the engine doesn't run this hot, but what about the piston rings and cylinder walls in direct contact with the explosion - very hot! After these have been in conatct with oil treated with activ8 it probably won't be good news!
Chlorinated hydrocarbons look bad for engines!
1) They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.
2) They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)
3) X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.
4) When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.
5) Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made.
If you look at the safety sheets for activ8, it even says:
HAZARDOUS COMBUSTION PRODUCTS: Hydrogen chloride may be evolved above 200° c. Ok so the engine doesn't run this hot, but what about the piston rings and cylinder walls in direct contact with the explosion - very hot! After these have been in conatct with oil treated with activ8 it probably won't be good news!
Chlorinated hydrocarbons look bad for engines!
http://www.smartsynthetics.com/artic...t_oil_addi.htm
Ever get bleach on your fingers? It's pretty slippery isn't it? Same principle here. Add enough Chlorinated components to a carrier and mix it with some type of Teflon, Moly, Zinc or Phosphorus & you can reduce the friction, except for one "minor" thing: Chlorinated additives mixed with oil and subjected to heat forms hydrochloric acid! Hydrochloric acid is extremely detrimental to you internal engine parts.
http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html
I prefer not to rely on them. I've added STP additives to the benzine , mostly at the beginning of the season, to clear out condensation in the gas circuit, but never in the oil.
#9
08-23-2010, 02:18 AM
Join Date: Jul 2010
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In Spain, some guys are checking with the additive Metal Lube for motorbikes. The colleagues that have used this stuff have found that in the very moment that they have added the Metal Lube to the oil, the camshaft chain has stopped the noise forever more. Them all are very satisfied and does not harms the cluth at all, and is free of graphyte.
I have not checked it out because my machine only has 26.000 kms and everything works like new, but I think that may be a cheap and easy way to avoid to open the engine. Here below the link.
I have not checked it out because my machine only has 26.000 kms and everything works like new, but I think that may be a cheap and easy way to avoid to open the engine. Here below the link.
Most of them can seems to do good at first, but are detrimental to your bike in the long run.
I could not remember exactly the reasons, but looking a bit, I found that:
http://admin.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/...opic-id=388269
A number of ‘add-on’ additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as ‘Xxtralube ZX-1’, ‘Metol FX-1’, ‘PPL Anti-Friction’ and ‘Activ-8’.All such products share the following characteristics with ‘X-1R Friction Eliminator’:-
1) They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.
2) They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)
3) X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.
4) When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.
5) Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made.
If you look at the safety sheets for activ8, it even says:
HAZARDOUS COMBUSTION PRODUCTS: Hydrogen chloride may be evolved above 200° c. Ok so the engine doesn't run this hot, but what about the piston rings and cylinder walls in direct contact with the explosion - very hot! After these have been in conatct with oil treated with activ8 it probably won't be good news!
Chlorinated hydrocarbons look bad for engines!
1) They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.
2) They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)
3) X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.
4) When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.
5) Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made.
If you look at the safety sheets for activ8, it even says:
HAZARDOUS COMBUSTION PRODUCTS: Hydrogen chloride may be evolved above 200° c. Ok so the engine doesn't run this hot, but what about the piston rings and cylinder walls in direct contact with the explosion - very hot! After these have been in conatct with oil treated with activ8 it probably won't be good news!
Chlorinated hydrocarbons look bad for engines!
Ever get bleach on your fingers? It's pretty slippery isn't it? Same principle here. Add enough Chlorinated components to a carrier and mix it with some type of Teflon, Moly, Zinc or Phosphorus & you can reduce the friction, except for one "minor" thing: Chlorinated additives mixed with oil and subjected to heat forms hydrochloric acid! Hydrochloric acid is extremely detrimental to you internal engine parts.
http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html
I prefer not to rely on them. I've added STP additives to the benzine , mostly at the beginning of the season, to clear out condensation in the gas circuit, but never in the oil.
#10
08-23-2010, 05:27 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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Hi tripy,
Really a very interesting information!!!!
Anyway, if you take a look to the specs of this product, will find out that is absolutely free from any dangerous stuff for the engine (may be true or may be just a fake)
. here goes.....
http://www.metallube.de/shop/shop_co...etallube/.html
I'm not a user of this kind of products and do not trust in this stuff at all. Indeed, I have just referenced this product owed to the good results that other colleagues has experimented and thought that could be hepfull and also an economical solution before opening the engine completely.
Really a very interesting information!!!!
Anyway, if you take a look to the specs of this product, will find out that is absolutely free from any dangerous stuff for the engine (may be true or may be just a fake)
. here goes..... What does METAL LUBE do?
- Reduces friction:
METAL LUBE dramatically reduces: friction, heat, noise and wear. It also saves oil and fuel consumption. METAL LUBE is used in engines, transmissions and differentials of: street use vehicles, hi-performance vehicles, ships, boats, airplanes, trucks, heavy equipment, factory machinery, machine shops operations and any machinery that ist lubrcated by oil or grease. - No harmful chemicals:
METAL LUBE does not contain harmful chemicals for the engine or any parts that are lubricated with oil or grease. It is not an oil or does it replace it. It is not a normal oil additive. Does not contain lead, graphite, PTFE, silicon, molibdenum-disulfide, nor chlorinated parraffins.
- Will not drain out:
METAL LUBE will not filter nor drain out during oil change.It will not adher to the walls nor the lubricating passages. This is because METAL LUBE can only adher to the metal surfaces that are being submitted to friction. It is compatible with minaral and synthetic oils.
- Anticorrosive and antioxidant:
METAL LUBE chamically treats the metal surfaces with a super tough film that is so microscopially thin that ti will not alter the tolerances or the spaces between the parts, because it will not form a film on top of itself. It also has anticorrosive and antioxidant properties, to provide maximum protection to the metal parts.
- Maximum protection at start-up:
Lubrication engineers have calcuated that 80% of wear in an engine occurs at the critical period of cold start up. METAL LUBE protects all the metal parts that suffer friction in the engine because it maintains the oil adhered to the metal sufraces as if it had magnetic properties. This is achieved because METAL LUBE contains a petrochemical and a catalyst that are activated by friction and heat created by the moving parts in the machinery, thus forming a thin film that will adhere to the metal surface. This will make the oil or grease stay adhered to the metal also, avoiding metal to metal contact even under extreme operating conditions and specially at cold start up.
- Increases lubricity:
METAL LUBE creates a near perfect lubrication environment making it possible for the oil or grease to work under extreme loads and conditions that under normal circumstances would be impossible to withstand. This will dramatically increase the lubricity of any oil or grease. The results are that METAL LUBE, by drastically reducing friction, will at the same time lower the temperature of the oil or water. Consequentlly, wear as we know it, will virtaully be eliminated.
- Increases engine life:
It will significantly increase the life of metal parts that come in contact with one another. Therefore, it will extend the normal life and permit an engine or machine to last for longer periods of time even if it were to loose oil pressure or the oil itself. The friction produced by pistons and the carbon buildup in the combustion chamber will be reduced. It can avoid severe wear problems in cam shafts. The machinery will work noticeably smoother with a considerable reduction in vibrations and noises up to 40% in diesel engines. You will notice increase performance in transmissions and dirrerentials. Down time and maintenance will be reduced.
- Saves money & downtime:
You will initallly receive your investment in METAL LUBE by savings in fuel consumption. You will save money in costly partial or complete overhaul, maintenance, downtime, parts, toos, energy and oil.
http://www.metallube.de/shop/shop_co...etallube/.html
I'm not a user of this kind of products and do not trust in this stuff at all. Indeed, I have just referenced this product owed to the good results that other colleagues has experimented and thought that could be hepfull and also an economical solution before opening the engine completely.
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