Pain in the Rear!
#12
12-25-2007, 09:12 AM
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RE: Pain in the Rear!
Compared to other full faired sportsbikes I thinks the CBR's carbs are a piece of **** to work on. Unless you have a californian model.
Nice NOS setup. If u want to do a sneaky nos system convert a stock 4-2 into a 4-2-1 by blocking off the left muffler at the junction. Then cut open the left muffler abd put the nos bottle inside it and put back together so it all looks like dual stock mufflers :P
Nice NOS setup. If u want to do a sneaky nos system convert a stock 4-2 into a 4-2-1 by blocking off the left muffler at the junction. Then cut open the left muffler abd put the nos bottle inside it and put back together so it all looks like dual stock mufflers :P
#13
12-25-2007, 06:39 PM
RE: Pain in the Rear!
Yea, carb work on this thing is a pain. At least it's not a GoldWing, I refuse to work on a Wing again, EVER.
The problem I'm running into is where to put the foggers and still retain the airbox.Intake boots are too short, boots from the airbox to carbs are too short on the center 2 carbs.
Might just pumb all 4 foggers into the airbox and see what happens.
The problem I'm running into is where to put the foggers and still retain the airbox.Intake boots are too short, boots from the airbox to carbs are too short on the center 2 carbs.
Might just pumb all 4 foggers into the airbox and see what happens.
#14
12-26-2007, 02:30 AM
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RE: Pain in the Rear!
The fork legs appear to be raised a lot. Is there still enough travel so the suspension will not bind during hard braking?
It will be interesting to hear how the nitrous system turns out on the bike. In case you have the basic knowledge about nitrous you don’t need to read any further.
What is the purpose of the nitrous mod? Will you take the bike to the drag strip and look for lots of power, or would you be happy with just a bit more power than stock?
For high power levels I believe you need to locate the nozzles downstream the carbs. That is to get atomized extra fuel into the engine. You need to have an electric fuel pump that supply the nozzles with extrafuel but I guess you are aware of this.
For lower power levels, like a few extra horses, you can just hang one (1) nozzle (with a nitrous jet) into the airbox and only add nitrous, i.e. skip the extra fuel supply by the nozzles. The function of nitrous is that it adds a lot of extra oxygen and it increases the burn rate of the fuel. Extra fuel must be added with nitrous oxide, it is this that gives more power and not the nitrous gas itself. Without extra fuel, the combustion temperature will skyrocket and the engine will be destroyed. For small power levels the extra fuel can be achieved by shimming up the needles andusing larger main jets. The problem with this is however that the engine will be over-jetted when it runs without nitrous oxide.
The faster burn rate with nitrous mustbe handled by high-octane fuel or by retarding the ignition when nitrous is engaged.
The is a lot of information on the web about nitrous oxide applications, like e.g http://www.nitrous.info/
It will be interesting to hear how the nitrous system turns out on the bike. In case you have the basic knowledge about nitrous you don’t need to read any further.
What is the purpose of the nitrous mod? Will you take the bike to the drag strip and look for lots of power, or would you be happy with just a bit more power than stock?
For high power levels I believe you need to locate the nozzles downstream the carbs. That is to get atomized extra fuel into the engine. You need to have an electric fuel pump that supply the nozzles with extrafuel but I guess you are aware of this.
For lower power levels, like a few extra horses, you can just hang one (1) nozzle (with a nitrous jet) into the airbox and only add nitrous, i.e. skip the extra fuel supply by the nozzles. The function of nitrous is that it adds a lot of extra oxygen and it increases the burn rate of the fuel. Extra fuel must be added with nitrous oxide, it is this that gives more power and not the nitrous gas itself. Without extra fuel, the combustion temperature will skyrocket and the engine will be destroyed. For small power levels the extra fuel can be achieved by shimming up the needles andusing larger main jets. The problem with this is however that the engine will be over-jetted when it runs without nitrous oxide.
The faster burn rate with nitrous mustbe handled by high-octane fuel or by retarding the ignition when nitrous is engaged.
The is a lot of information on the web about nitrous oxide applications, like e.g http://www.nitrous.info/
#15
12-26-2007, 01:18 PM
RE: Pain in the Rear!
Hey R1000,
I figured one of the road racers would eventually spot the fork tubes which are 1-7/8 inches above the clip on mounts.
The fork tubes are raised enough so that the fender does not to touch the fairing under braking. I've actually almost looped it doing hard launches at track a couple of times and came down very hard. Fender never touched the fairing. It does not see many street miles anymore just a track bike. No spirited corner carving for this bike anymore.
As far as the nitrous, the plan is to eventually shoot enough gas to push the crank out the bottom of the cases. Or just a little below that point. Since this is a carb'd bike I'm going to run the wet system. Shooting dry will not achieve the power levels that are expected without hurting the motor.
I haven't figured out how far I want to take this little project yet.The eventual goal is to run a progressive nitrous controller with timing retard to run the bigger shots with less drama when the trigger is pulled.
I know this post is rather generic. My knowledge of nitrous is rather exstensive and I like to see your posts because of the insight you provide on a vast range of topics. I may document the whole process and call it project Warbird to see what might be accomplished with a stock motor.
Everybody can learn new tricks. Thanks for the link.
FarAway
I figured one of the road racers would eventually spot the fork tubes which are 1-7/8 inches above the clip on mounts.
The fork tubes are raised enough so that the fender does not to touch the fairing under braking. I've actually almost looped it doing hard launches at track a couple of times and came down very hard. Fender never touched the fairing. It does not see many street miles anymore just a track bike. No spirited corner carving for this bike anymore.
As far as the nitrous, the plan is to eventually shoot enough gas to push the crank out the bottom of the cases. Or just a little below that point. Since this is a carb'd bike I'm going to run the wet system. Shooting dry will not achieve the power levels that are expected without hurting the motor.
I haven't figured out how far I want to take this little project yet.The eventual goal is to run a progressive nitrous controller with timing retard to run the bigger shots with less drama when the trigger is pulled.
I know this post is rather generic. My knowledge of nitrous is rather exstensive and I like to see your posts because of the insight you provide on a vast range of topics. I may document the whole process and call it project Warbird to see what might be accomplished with a stock motor.
Everybody can learn new tricks. Thanks for the link.
FarAway
#16
12-26-2007, 01:40 PM
#17
12-26-2007, 02:18 PM
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RE: Pain in the Rear!
Aah, good that you have the necessaryknowledge :-)
About 15 years ago i designed a progressive nitrous controller that was sold world-wide, e.g. by NOS before they merged with the Holley company. I don't work with this stuff anymore but is keen to hear what you will achieve with the 'Cane.
I guess 50+ extra reliable horses are well within reach if you retard the ignition and calibrate the system correct.The power level should be about the same as the engine can take with a turbo and I would be surprised if the 'Cane would not handle 200 rwhp as long as the rpm is not increased, which it will not be with nitrous.
Istill have acontroller left, perhaps itwill be usedon the Blackbirdlater:-)
Cheers
About 15 years ago i designed a progressive nitrous controller that was sold world-wide, e.g. by NOS before they merged with the Holley company. I don't work with this stuff anymore but is keen to hear what you will achieve with the 'Cane.
I guess 50+ extra reliable horses are well within reach if you retard the ignition and calibrate the system correct.The power level should be about the same as the engine can take with a turbo and I would be surprised if the 'Cane would not handle 200 rwhp as long as the rpm is not increased, which it will not be with nitrous.
Istill have acontroller left, perhaps itwill be usedon the Blackbirdlater:-)
Cheers
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