CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

New cam chain/tensioner/guide. No power ???

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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 04:26 AM
  #12  
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At least parting it out you'll be able to get some of your money back, will take time though.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #13  
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Yep the only reason I attemped this in the 1st place was because it she sounded like a bucket of bolts on start up, then she quieted down after warm up. I was hoping to get 100k out of her. I bought her with 34K with no maintenance history. 51k is nothing for these bikes. So I am bummed on this whole thing, as she is a great looking bike. I found a replacement engine with 10k on it from a 1996 CBR for $800 that from what I am told would be a bolt in. But you never know what ur getting with something like that. The guy offers no warranty at all.

Good thing is I drove her over a year and had a blast and she saved me a ton in gas going to work and back. I also only paid $1200 for her. Which u all know is a great deal. Yea I put some money in her but not alot. Hopefuly can get some back when I part her out. The plastics are in good shape. The carbs rock on this bike..

I am probably going to go with a blackbird...As I hear the cam tensioners are very easy to change out. LOL

Any advice I can give u all from this experience, let her rattle, she will be fine.

You all are great bunch and I have learned alot. I'll keep u all posted on whats next.

Matt
 

Last edited by hurricanematt; Mar 17, 2011 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #14  
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I hear you it's a sickener when you bust bolts off like that ............my approach
to hell with it leave it for a week until you cool off ....then just get back into her
and drill 'em out and keep at it ............so when you were rotatiing the motor to
take the slack out ! Did you go clockwise or counterclockwise ???
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 07:44 PM
  #15  
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Sprock- Yea i am pretty pissed at myself. She was running so good. I should have used a thicker weight oil for the noise, it may have helped.
But at 51K i figured it needed to be changed.

The big hulk is just sitting in the garage. It makes my heart sick.

I went counterclockwise when lining up the marks. Still have yet to figure out the "F" mark? Which is about a 1/8" from the "T" mark. It is to the right of the "T" mark.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #16  
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The "F" mark is the timing mark that should be alined with the mark on the case when at idle. you need a timing light to see this. You youngsters probably have never seen one of those. You never had to set point gaps and adjust the timing. F= fire.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 07:59 AM
  #18  
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+another on the points memories. Always carried a bit of fine emery cloth or a broken bit of a nail file.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 04:36 AM
  #20  
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Matt,

buy y'self a Dremmel and a couple of diamond tipped tapered rasp/reamer bits.
You stand a very good chance of getting the broken bolts out and being able to use the original threads if you're patient and careful.
Look on the bright side. You broke it, you can repair it.
Hunker down, grit your teeth and think positive. You can do this mate. She'll live another day and you'll make that 100K.
 
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