hey just wanted to know how much power gain i would get out a jet kit on my bike stage 1 and 2

 

Probably nothing at all on a stock bike. The bike is even a bit over-jetted stock. In case you change to a free flowing system the bike will deliver more power and the needles should be raised a bit. Washers can do this, and things like expensiveDyno Jet kits are absolutely notnecessary. They sell a lot of kits because they have made people believe they get some extrapower for a sum that is quite high but within the reach for most people. In case the bike is changed so much the stock main jets will limit, it is just to by new jets that are very cheep compared to the complete kit with adjustable needles and other unnecessary stuff.

 

Yeah what he said. I have actually stoped using my jet kit and gone back to stock with shimed needles.

The jet kit did give a lot more instant throttle response in the midrange, but not matter how much I ****ed around with it I could not get the thing to be smooth at constant throttle in the midrange.

I just wish I could go back to standard exhaust!

 

I have to agree with R1000 and Trips, if your willing to do a little research, you can get the same results for little money.

My bike came with the kit and Two Brothers stainless system, but if it had not I would have Started changing jets and shimming needles until a sweet spot was found.

I've got the same problem with the kit. It's not completely smooth but I'm not putting a lot of street miles on it anymore so I deal with it.

FarAway

 

I have a 1990 FL model that has had a 4-2-1 system and a K&N filter fitted.

What thickness of washer would you suggest starting with under the needle ?

Any idea what internal & external diameter the washers are ?

Cheers Dean

 

When mine was dynoed the operatoradjusted:
1)float height to 8 mm
2) Removed a small piece of aluminium (using a hacksaw) on the side of the float bowl of each carb (Mine is a US model) because they where limiting adjustment of #3
3) Adjusted the screw on the side of each float bowl

Got the needles back home so i can't measure them right now. But the needles in the jetkit have slots every few millimeters so i guess M3 or M4 washers of 1mm thick should do it. Gonna measure it tonight if nobody else did by then.

 

You have to make sure you measure the washers with calipers.

Your cheaper ones can vary in thickness.

 

I'm going to ask some maybe stupid questions, but I clearly don't understand. When I had my carburetors apart for cleaning, I for the life of me couldn't see any way to adjust the height of the floats. There were no screws, no metal tangs, nothing except the plastic float, a metal pin that it pivots on, and the float needle. Can someone tell me what I'm missing here ? I've included photo's of the carburetors here from when I had them apart.

 

Bump...

I'm surprised that someone doesn't have answer on this. How did Bennoh pay to get his adjusted to 8mm, for that matter how did they do it and where did they measure it from ?

 

The carbs doesn't look like those on my –92 CBR 1000 F. My carbs had a metal tang that pushes on the float valve. It was just to bend thetang until the float height was correct.

Anyway, the float heightis checked like this. Lean the carb so the tang on the floater just begins to touch the float valve needle. Measure the distance from the lower machined surface of the carb to the underside of the floater. I believe it was pretty well descibed in the Haynes manual, which is gone with the bike.