Got mine apart right now also, Plastic floats no adjustment that I can see. Same as yours.

 

I've love to know the to new carbs can accept the older floats.

 

The float level can not be adjusted on carbs like that. If the float level is out of spec.the float needle assembly is to be replaced.


[IMG]local://upfiles/4562/92133B8A1026463B82C12177F58DCD39.jpg[/IMG]

 

No adjustment and the seat does not adjust or remove.

 

You edited your post R1000, while I was taking pictures to see if there was any adjustment.

 

Well, at least that gives me some assurance that I'm not going crazy. I did replace the float valves while I had them apart, the first carb kept flooding. No problems since.

BTW, Trips, R1000, FarAway... where've you been [&o].., you'd think it was some sort of holiday or something. I was thinking I wasn't going to get any answers... Thanks.

Oh yea, and FarAway, if you edit your post and put your cursor inbetween your images and hit the enter key, they'll become verticly aligned instead of horizontal making this thread a little "thinner".

 

Tried the suggestion, didn't work. Pictures must be too big. I hate to scroll back and forth myself.

I may just delete the photos and resize them.

 

When it comes to jetting etc, I am sticking to the Philosphy that a mutli billion $$$ co. like Honda knows what they are doing and I just stick to stock.

If I want more power I'll buy a different bike.

If I want to go faster I'll do some advanced riding training which in the end is cheaper.

 

Trips,
I ain't buying that. Sounds like something my grumpy old man (RIP) would have posted. All the while eyeballing an A/F meter trying to figure out how to make something run better.

Your bluffing.

Cheers,

FarAway

 

Yes, I found a note in the Haynes Blackbird manual that tells the float level is not adjustable on this type of carb. The floater on the Bird looks exactly the same as on idodirt’s pictures.

The good thing with the fixed solution is that the float level cannot be changed by mistake when the carb is maintained. The metal lip on a conventional floater is quite weak and can easily be bent by mistake.

Some racers wants to fine adjust the engine with the float level and may not be as happy with the solution. Personally, I like Hondas latest floater solution, they have determined a float level that works well and could be left as is.

When is comes to tuning in general, which may be needed on modified engines, the usual tricks like adjusting needle height and changing main jets is enough to achieve the correct A/F ratio.However, a vacuum carb is very forgiving forchanges in airflow, so it can normally be left as is even when e.g. the mufflers are replaced. Some shops with dyno facilities will of course not support this, since they make good money on tuning whether it is needed or not.

Replacing a restrictive stock exhaust system and optimizing the A/F rate will of course always free up some extra power, but the main thing is to get rid of the restrictions and changing jets on vacuum carbed bikes is normally not necessary. What I have found on both the -92 Cane I had before and the recent Bird, is that raising the needles a little will improve and cure any mid range hesitation.