When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
FYI, I just took off my carbs and noticed the grooves on the two inside isolator boots are a little flattened on the bottom. That is most likely my intermittent high idle problem. I ordered replacements - They'll probably "pop in" better too.
Also, I really think that my hard starting problem is no spark due to the starter sucking up all the juice and the ICM cuts out from that. I'm still going to completely clean my carbs as they're off, but when I crank it over with the kill switch engaged, while it's cranking over disengage the kill switch and it the engine will sputter. If I just crank it over normally I get nothing (Well, it eventually starts). New battery and recently replaced R/R by PO. The starter wire and nut is rusty an crusty from heat due to previous owners whirling the dumb thing over endlessly instead of of trying to fix the problem. I bought a rebuild kit and and it didn't come with a new stud so I had to soak it in evapo rust gel.
It works really good, in the photo with the starter all apart you can see the stud has much cleaner threads. You can spin a nut right on where before I was worried about snapping it when taking it off the starter housing. It took a bit of waiting time and two apply and rinse efforts, but I was able to keep reusing the gob I had on the paper towel. Works better than sandpaper or a wire wheel I think, because it only removes rust.
It's back together after rebuilding the starter, replacing & properly orienting the isolator boots and fully cleaning the carbs (including the pilot screws lol!). I'm disappointed that it still starts hard and has intermittent high idle issues (much much less though). It may have started hard due to the carbs being empty but it took a bit to fire up. I just can't see where there would be a vacuum leak now. The carbs are definitely seated perfectly - They popped right in after dealing with the boot issue and go right up to the metal stops. I also repaired the airbox boots earlier and they are perfectly sealed as well.
Some things that haven't been done are pilot screw adjustment and carb sync. Right now they are bench synced with 1/8" drill bits and all pilot screws are out 3 turns. The bike does not run like crap, it just starts hard and doesn't idle down all the time. It will still detach me from my underwear when wound up. Normal carb adjustments are permanent and constant. I plan to fine tune next but don't expect it to do any good. Hopefully I will be proven wrong but I have my doubts.
Good news is that the starter whirls over like nobody's business, and ICM seems to spark all the time now. I did blow a fuse at the solenoid level a few minutes after it was running. The infared readings at the exhaust are all pretty much the same so I don't think I'm going to ruin anything by taking it for a 50 mile ride. Maybe it just needs some operating time.
My stuff to sync and adjust comes in Monday. I really don't think I have a vacuum leak, the idle mixture screws are a little rich but I should smell gas and I don't and the bike should start right away regardless. I tested the petcock valve by removing the line and quickly flipped the starter to make sure carb one was working it - Wish I put a bigger paper towel behind it, pours plenty of fuel. Spray test on carb boots - No idle changes. Carbs cleaned and bench synced - Again, should still start right up even with a manual sync. The plugs are new, will probably rule out bad coils/wires this weekend by putting the stick coils in but I really wanted to get it running right first. Fuel vent passes air fine.
Anything else I might have missed? In the meantime I've been looking around for useful info scraps. Didn't want to revive this post because it's really old, but I have a Vance & Hines 4 into one exhaust so probably has a jet and needle kit - Should I try adjusting the main jet needle:
When start the sync process just make sure the engine is warmed to operating temp. I usually let the fan kick on before I commence.
Be patient with it. Miniscule tweaks will show be changes in the gauges. Several tiny adjustments, like a 16th of a turn across the board will be quicker in the end. Whenever you make one adjustment it will affect the other three. Always blip the throttle after an adjustment. Patience is your best friend. You will think that its not doing anything then it will slowly start coming together. Bench syncing is the perfect 1st step. That cuts the time down dramatically.
