ignition lock
#21
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Most of the better ideas have been thrown up by the guys already ...
SO ....
when all else fails ..there is always carefully drill JUST the heads off , remove the ignition and then grab the body of the dam bolts with vice grips ...
If that fails and the body of the bolts still wont move ... drill the dam bolts out and re tap the bastards ...
All of this though is really only possible with the whole top bracket removed to work on it ...
* I hate those stupid security bolts too *
Of course you could remove the top fork bracket altogether and then you can turn it over , build a little dam with plasticine or putty , fill it with WD40 and let the bastards soak over night to see if the threads loosen a bit to see if they then can be removed easier...??
SO ....
when all else fails ..there is always carefully drill JUST the heads off , remove the ignition and then grab the body of the dam bolts with vice grips ...
If that fails and the body of the bolts still wont move ... drill the dam bolts out and re tap the bastards ...
All of this though is really only possible with the whole top bracket removed to work on it ...
* I hate those stupid security bolts too *
Of course you could remove the top fork bracket altogether and then you can turn it over , build a little dam with plasticine or putty , fill it with WD40 and let the bastards soak over night to see if the threads loosen a bit to see if they then can be removed easier...??
Last edited by CBRclassic; 01-18-2010 at 03:33 PM.
#24
i didnt try those things of course because access was the problem.
i didnt want to remove any of the 'dress' chrome nuts at the handlebars, or remove brackets, and especially the oil cooler. there was never room to get an electric drill close to the problem. when you say 'remove the ignition' -- that was the whole objective. thats the part that was easier said than done. instead of drilling, i simply sawed it out.
gripping the shafts with vicegrips would virtually have been the same as using overbolts-plus-spanner, but i found the overbolts more convenient.
i didnt want to remove the oil cooler for one main reason. i've had Nulon 80,000 Km additive in, and for only 4K km, so it was too soon to throw it away. when you leave it in for 5K km, they promise that you get the best teflon-coating effect.
im sold on Nulon. i really believe liquid teflon preserves an engine if it goes in before normal wear has occurred. ive had good results with it in a number of cars.
for worn car engines blowing smoke, i recommend Morey's oil stabiliser. i used 2 bottles of that last year on my clapped-out VH commodore. it had been belching blue smoke until then, but suddenly stopped completely. i mean completely.
i had also used Nulon G70 diff additive for years. UNTIL, yesterday. the diff finally collapsed. i think its the planetary gears and its thumping, clanking and ringing.
after turning a corner, it will thump and maybe stop driving altogether. i put it in reverse and try Drive again and it has been engaging. but it must explode eventually. i hope im not on the highway when it happens. the repair price i got today was $1200, but this seems a bit much.
what im saying is, without the G70, i believe it would collapsed long ago.
which figures. everything on that commodore has failed. the fuel tank sprang a leak. the radiator sprang a leak. the trimatic shat itself. the propeller shafts and universals seized up. the aircon stopped long ago. the fuel consumption has reached a mindboggling 14 mpg ! (for real)
the side covers, rocker cover, fuel pump and water pump have all sprung leaks.
i dont know why holden fans ever built a mythological love of these cars as long-lived and indestructible. i wouldnt spit on commodores after owning one for 14 years and fixing one breakdown after another. but when you pass the point of no return in investing in fix-ups you have to keep going.
i was lucky i got the 1000F back together just as the diff crapped out.
i didnt want to remove any of the 'dress' chrome nuts at the handlebars, or remove brackets, and especially the oil cooler. there was never room to get an electric drill close to the problem. when you say 'remove the ignition' -- that was the whole objective. thats the part that was easier said than done. instead of drilling, i simply sawed it out.
gripping the shafts with vicegrips would virtually have been the same as using overbolts-plus-spanner, but i found the overbolts more convenient.
i didnt want to remove the oil cooler for one main reason. i've had Nulon 80,000 Km additive in, and for only 4K km, so it was too soon to throw it away. when you leave it in for 5K km, they promise that you get the best teflon-coating effect.
im sold on Nulon. i really believe liquid teflon preserves an engine if it goes in before normal wear has occurred. ive had good results with it in a number of cars.
for worn car engines blowing smoke, i recommend Morey's oil stabiliser. i used 2 bottles of that last year on my clapped-out VH commodore. it had been belching blue smoke until then, but suddenly stopped completely. i mean completely.
i had also used Nulon G70 diff additive for years. UNTIL, yesterday. the diff finally collapsed. i think its the planetary gears and its thumping, clanking and ringing.
after turning a corner, it will thump and maybe stop driving altogether. i put it in reverse and try Drive again and it has been engaging. but it must explode eventually. i hope im not on the highway when it happens. the repair price i got today was $1200, but this seems a bit much.
what im saying is, without the G70, i believe it would collapsed long ago.
which figures. everything on that commodore has failed. the fuel tank sprang a leak. the radiator sprang a leak. the trimatic shat itself. the propeller shafts and universals seized up. the aircon stopped long ago. the fuel consumption has reached a mindboggling 14 mpg ! (for real)
the side covers, rocker cover, fuel pump and water pump have all sprung leaks.
i dont know why holden fans ever built a mythological love of these cars as long-lived and indestructible. i wouldnt spit on commodores after owning one for 14 years and fixing one breakdown after another. but when you pass the point of no return in investing in fix-ups you have to keep going.
i was lucky i got the 1000F back together just as the diff crapped out.
#25
With the risk of being seen as an ***, I'm just wondering; You do know that your clutch soaks in the same oil you've put "antiwear addition" formula in, "teflon that makes metal more slippery". You'll be one lucky SOB if your clutch doesn't slip after that. Many bike clutches doesn't even get along with car engine oils.
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
i didnt want to remove the oil cooler for one main reason. i've had Nulon 80,000 Km additive in, and for only 4K km, so it was too soon to throw it away. when you leave it in for 5K km, they promise that you get the best teflon-coating effect.
im sold on Nulon. i really believe liquid teflon preserves an engine if it goes in before normal wear has occurred. ive had good results with it in a number of cars.
im sold on Nulon. i really believe liquid teflon preserves an engine if it goes in before normal wear has occurred. ive had good results with it in a number of cars.
I don't doubt that it's working ok ATM ...but I would refrain from running Nulon if she was my CBR ... but hey , if it works for you , who are we to say ...
Last edited by CBRclassic; 01-20-2010 at 05:20 AM.
#27
you might all be right. all i can do is quote the Nulon bottle label which specifically says "safe with wet clutches at 50 ml per litre". specifically recommended for "four stroke motorcycles"
i put it in my lawn mowers as well and they both stopped blowing smoke at startup.
i use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil in the CBR because they say the same thing about it being premium lubricant for all four strokes.
if the logic of non-additive is that friction itself is what makes clutches work, then it must be friction which wears friction plates out. if you dont intercede with friction-reduction then you can definitely expect your clutch to have a rated life-expectancy.
my viewing of plain-plates from bikes that get thrashed with wheelie-starts and donuts is that friciton-reduction could only have conserved their lives longer. you expect the friction plates to take a beating, but not the plain plates, so how come so many come out blackened, thinned, burnt and eroded ?
i put it in my lawn mowers as well and they both stopped blowing smoke at startup.
i use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil in the CBR because they say the same thing about it being premium lubricant for all four strokes.
if the logic of non-additive is that friction itself is what makes clutches work, then it must be friction which wears friction plates out. if you dont intercede with friction-reduction then you can definitely expect your clutch to have a rated life-expectancy.
my viewing of plain-plates from bikes that get thrashed with wheelie-starts and donuts is that friciton-reduction could only have conserved their lives longer. you expect the friction plates to take a beating, but not the plain plates, so how come so many come out blackened, thinned, burnt and eroded ?
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Om neither trying to debate nor interested in debating the pros and cons regarding what you use ...
All these additive products have reassuring quotes and disclaimers on the bottles ... but that wont convince me ... lol
Anyway... at the end of the day like I said , if YOU are happy with it , hey why not use it ...
The rest of the guys may want to say something about it ,... but om out ....
All these additive products have reassuring quotes and disclaimers on the bottles ... but that wont convince me ... lol
Anyway... at the end of the day like I said , if YOU are happy with it , hey why not use it ...
The rest of the guys may want to say something about it ,... but om out ....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post