I need a picture from under your 1993 1KF tank.
I need a picture from under your 1993 1KF tank.
I just got this bike and it looks like a few things are missing.
I need a broad pic of every thing you have under the tank looking at the carbs forward to the coils.
If you could get a close up of where the sync hoses hook up that would be great too. This is what the hat on my carb looks like and I can not find the vacuum ports to hook up the sync hoses.
Where do I plug in the sync tool ?? LOL!!!
I need a broad pic of every thing you have under the tank looking at the carbs forward to the coils.
If you could get a close up of where the sync hoses hook up that would be great too. This is what the hat on my carb looks like and I can not find the vacuum ports to hook up the sync hoses.
Where do I plug in the sync tool ?? LOL!!!
Senior Member & Lord of the Odometer (300,000 Mles) & Counting
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Rebel Cave in the Carolinas
Hey:
Go here to get an idea of where its at, also the download of the manual shows it in the maintenace section. It is underneath the carbs on 93+ on the intake side of the head. carb #3 is the sync carb match all others to it, as it can not be adjusted, be careful removing the boostplug cap on 2/3, as they are easily damaged. only pinch the end to remove not the middle or you will need a new one #4 is a plug.
#1 is where the fuel petcock goes, you put a mity vac on the hose to pressure the diaphram so it runs. Adjuster phillips screw is on top between 1/2, 2/3,and 3/4
Fiche Parts
item 10 is boost/vacuum cap
Dub
Go here to get an idea of where its at, also the download of the manual shows it in the maintenace section. It is underneath the carbs on 93+ on the intake side of the head. carb #3 is the sync carb match all others to it, as it can not be adjusted, be careful removing the boostplug cap on 2/3, as they are easily damaged. only pinch the end to remove not the middle or you will need a new one #4 is a plug.
#1 is where the fuel petcock goes, you put a mity vac on the hose to pressure the diaphram so it runs. Adjuster phillips screw is on top between 1/2, 2/3,and 3/4
Fiche Parts
item 10 is boost/vacuum cap
Dub
Last edited by CBR1988; Jul 17, 2011 at 10:21 PM.
Hey:
Go here to get an idea of where its at, also the download of the manual shows it in the maintenace section. It is underneath the carbs on 93+ on the intake side of the head. carb #3 is the sync carb, be careful removing the boostplug cap, as they are easily damaged. only pinch the end to remove not the middle or you will need a new one.#1 is where the fuel petcock goes, you put a mity vac on the hose to pressure the diaphram so it runs. Adjuster phillips screw is on top between 1/2, 2/3,and 3/4
Fiche Parts
item 10 is boost/vacuum cap
Dub
Go here to get an idea of where its at, also the download of the manual shows it in the maintenace section. It is underneath the carbs on 93+ on the intake side of the head. carb #3 is the sync carb, be careful removing the boostplug cap, as they are easily damaged. only pinch the end to remove not the middle or you will need a new one.#1 is where the fuel petcock goes, you put a mity vac on the hose to pressure the diaphram so it runs. Adjuster phillips screw is on top between 1/2, 2/3,and 3/4
Fiche Parts
item 10 is boost/vacuum cap
Dub
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,237
Likes: 15
From: Bir Tawil
I don't see anything missing. All the clamps and parts are there.
As mentioned, the carb adjusters are between the carbs (hard to see, they are down in there) and the vacuum take-offs are on the head as mentioned. You will need to take the side plastic off to see and get at the vacuum take-offs. They are under where the rubber meets the head. You will need carb adjusting tubes that screw into the threaded ports after you remove the screws that seal the ports.
It looks like the side plastic is still on in your photos and that may be why you don't see them.
Edit: In the photo that CBR1988 supplied, Part #9 is where you get vacuum for #1 (a tube and seal washer), 2&3 also use part #9 ( a tube with seal washer and rubber caps) while cylinder #4 uses part #18 (a screw and seal washer). All seen for the bottom right in the photo.
If I remember correctly (It's been a while), the vacuum tube going to the meter can connect directly to the tube on #1. You need to remove the rubber caps on #2&3 and the vacuum tube goes directly on. #4 is a screw that needs to be replaced with a tube to get vacuum to the meter.
You will need to apply vacuum to the petcock to get fuel flow when balancing the carbs. I use a hand held break vacuum bleeder that you can get at Harbor Freight for a few bucks. If you go to Harbor Freight, look in the back of a motorcycle magazine for a 20% off store coupon.
As mentioned, the carb adjusters are between the carbs (hard to see, they are down in there) and the vacuum take-offs are on the head as mentioned. You will need to take the side plastic off to see and get at the vacuum take-offs. They are under where the rubber meets the head. You will need carb adjusting tubes that screw into the threaded ports after you remove the screws that seal the ports.
It looks like the side plastic is still on in your photos and that may be why you don't see them.
Edit: In the photo that CBR1988 supplied, Part #9 is where you get vacuum for #1 (a tube and seal washer), 2&3 also use part #9 ( a tube with seal washer and rubber caps) while cylinder #4 uses part #18 (a screw and seal washer). All seen for the bottom right in the photo.
If I remember correctly (It's been a while), the vacuum tube going to the meter can connect directly to the tube on #1. You need to remove the rubber caps on #2&3 and the vacuum tube goes directly on. #4 is a screw that needs to be replaced with a tube to get vacuum to the meter.
You will need to apply vacuum to the petcock to get fuel flow when balancing the carbs. I use a hand held break vacuum bleeder that you can get at Harbor Freight for a few bucks. If you go to Harbor Freight, look in the back of a motorcycle magazine for a 20% off store coupon.
Last edited by TimBucTwo; Jul 18, 2011 at 10:15 AM.
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