hi and help rear brake caliper
Hi guys and thankyou for a informative forum.I am the proud owner of a 94 1000f with 40000km"s and its a great bike.However there is a problem with the rear brake caliper.
The rear wheel is tight hard to turn the pads appear to tight on the disk.I removed the caliper and lubricated the 3 pistons put back together but when i tighten the 3 bolts the wheel wont turn.? When i depress the rear brake pedal the centre piston comes out but the other 2 either side remain stationary and when i press one the other seesaws?is a part missing that seperates that block from the pads?Any advise appreciated.Only problem i have..Many thanks
The rear wheel is tight hard to turn the pads appear to tight on the disk.I removed the caliper and lubricated the 3 pistons put back together but when i tighten the 3 bolts the wheel wont turn.? When i depress the rear brake pedal the centre piston comes out but the other 2 either side remain stationary and when i press one the other seesaws?is a part missing that seperates that block from the pads?Any advise appreciated.Only problem i have..Many thanks
Ok, here the quick and dirty: Your front and rear brakes are connected. When you press on the rear brake pedal, the center piston on the rear caliper comes out. When you push up on the 'secondary master cylinder' (left fork, above the fender), that pushes the outer pistons on the rear caliper. It's Honda's way of saying "We know you don't know how to use the brakes properly, so let us help you by screwing it up completely."
Eventually, Shadow (our local welcome wagon) will hopefully come by and post up a link to the service manual. Download that and look at chapter 13 or start at page 181 for the braking system.
Are you sure the rear wheel is straight in the swingarm?
Eventually, Shadow (our local welcome wagon) will hopefully come by and post up a link to the service manual. Download that and look at chapter 13 or start at page 181 for the braking system.
Are you sure the rear wheel is straight in the swingarm?
Last edited by malbojah; Aug 1, 2009 at 06:29 PM.
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The combined braking systems are not my cup of tea ..
Shadow or one of the guys that know them will chime in as well eventually ..

Need a Workshop manual? Grab one from one of these links :-)
http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~cbr/Honda_CBR1000F_Service_Manual.pdf
http://blackbears.ru/index_en.php?get=manual
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
Shadow or one of the guys that know them will chime in as well eventually ..

Need a Workshop manual? Grab one from one of these links :-)
http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~cbr/Honda_CBR1000F_Service_Manual.pdf
http://blackbears.ru/index_en.php?get=manual
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
Last edited by CBRclassic; Aug 1, 2009 at 07:46 PM.
Thanks for the link to the manual.Yes the swigarm is all good.The problem is that when i tighten the three bolts on the calliper it stops the wheel from turning.I checked the micro of the rear brake and i cant see any spacer between the brake pad and the calliper block...
The caliper butts up against the swingarm. The larger spacer goes in the wheel against the wheel bearing and caliper. That is the proper spacing. If it is still tight the pistons are not all the way in or the pads are the wrong thickness or not properly seated.
My bet would be that they are not seated correctly on the ends without the bolts passing through. There is a little clip thing that they sit in and it is difficult at times to get everything in the correct place while reassembling them (part #3).
For bleeding the LBS look at my signature for the link.
Last edited by TimBucTwo; Aug 2, 2009 at 12:47 PM. Reason: fixing things
If you push on the two outer pistons, they send fluid back to the secondary master cylinder through the proportional valve. If you can't push them in the proportional valve may be plugged. You can test it by opening the top bleeder while pushing the pistons in. If they go in the valve is plugged or stuck.
ok thanks..the centre piston i canpush in no problem.THe left and right seesaw push one down other goes up.I have tried using a clamp but CANT get them to sit all the way in..You think this is the problem then?Appreciate this advise
Last edited by ozzie1000f; Aug 2, 2009 at 04:39 PM.
Yes, all three should be flush with the backing surface before reassembly. Try using a flat piece of steel and a c-clamp to get them in. If they are not going in, you may have to pull them out and clean them. There may be some pitting or rust that is stopping them.
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