I don't know if I'd fit them, due to heat and my personal problems with the charging system. You may also have to increase the fuse amp capacity, and all of this will increase the load on the wiring, and increased heat.............

I moved up from 45W bulbs to 65/50 blue halogen, with no problems, and I have plenty of light even for my old eyes, at sensible speeds in the dark, up to and beyond the speed limit here which is 75MPH on freeways.
They're at least as good as my car lights, in intensity and range.....

The bulb holders mentioned above give you plenty of options, and make life easier, and are d ....sight cheaper than Honda bulbs.

The halogens last me about two years, lights on dipped beam mostly, but lights on all the time.......

 

I'll go with your Paula and Shadows recommendations ........65/50 don't
want a toaster oven up front

Slim HID H4 kits though seem to run at like only 70% draw of regular bulbs.
(But I'll leave that in my R&D folder for now .....winter project)

 

I have been using Sylvania 9003ST SilverStar (60/55W) with good luck.
You can find twin packs on the internet for $12.90 US if you do a search.
As a matter of fact, that's one in the photos I posted earlier.

 

Sounds like a plan I know PepBoys in Newington NH (Tax Free has 'em)
as I ran same in H7's in 4 wheels.

 

I knew at least one of you would know where to get those adaptors. Thanks for that. My geniune (rip off bulbs..I'm not bitter am I?) will be here today so I'll be back on the road. These days I'm just not comfortable riding with no lights in the day. The d!ck heads, who try to kill us regularly, don't need any help!
I'll get some adaptors for my next set. I fitted those Narva Arctic Blue bulbs last time (had to bodge to fit them) and was quite pleased with the light they threw out. I don't ride at night much, if I can help it, so it's really just for the semi-blind retards to spot me a bit easier.

 

Yeah but with these DTP you still have to snip the tabs on the H4
the ring just fits over the rear to hold the H4 in.........................
makes it easy though rather than fiddling around getting them to
stay put .

 

Right, thanks. Now I remember the trouble I had getting them to stay in last time. I may have been robbed blind this time (hmm..still bitter), but at least they'll go straight in. They should last longer too because they were probably rattling a bit in the holders before.

 

But they're still only 50W bulbs....................

 

My main point in this thread is that you still have to modify the H-4 bulb to get it to fit. Instead of cutting the tabs off, bend them back to lock in a piece of thick wire. How hard is that?

I simply don't know why people are not willing to do the following to get the bulb to fit for the cost of a coat hanger (interesting...hmmm...). All the adapter does is adapt the smaller tab at the top to the larger slot in the bike. You can flatten it and get the same results.
BTW, I re-use the wire for the next bulb replacement making the next replacement even quicker.

As in photo #1
(1) Flatten the upper tab at 12 o-clock with pliers to widen it. The old bulb is a little wider.
(2) Push the two **** at 6 o-clock back flat against the body with pliers.
(3) Cut a piece of wire coat hanger the width of the body diameter and place it behind the body at 6 o-clock and bend the tabs at 4 o-clock and 7 o-clock back with pliers locking the wire in place.

It will take you longer to order spacers than it will to modify the bulbs and than you have to wait for the mail to deliver them.

 

The reason I picked the SilverStars as my choice is that my lows are white light and give me 110W total. My highs are 120W total of white light and go down the road further than I need. I compared mine to other bikes and when the bikes are side by side and the other bike turns the brights on, I can wash them out when I go to brights.