Hey all, just aquired a 1990 1000F from a good friend for around $700.00. Bike belonged to a factory Honda mechanic before he got it, and he had it for about 2 years. Anyway, love the bike, and the kick in the pants feeling it gives when cracked open. Has a Yoshimira pipe as well. I went and picked it up the other day, and it took lots and lots of cranking, battery charging, etc. and it finally busted off. Was fine the whole time I rode it. Got up the next morning, same thing, same thing the next. Before I burn up the starter, would like a little input. I have to leave it on full choke and crank forever .

Iceman

 

Also, bike has 104,000 miles on it, but once started, runs like a top. The previous owner always said he put sta-bil in it, but I thought the gas was bad, and drained it.(It wouldn't pass the styrofoam cup test) I put mid grade gas in, and 1/2 can B-12 Chemtool in it, and rode for about 50 mi, and still hard starting. I know the post is long, but I am not a bike mechanic, however I do know most of the basics. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Iceman

 

It's either not getting spark, or the choke isn't working. You can take out the plugs and lay them on the valve cover to see if they spark when the engine is cold. If they work, the choke cable may be disconnected (my plastic connector on the choke is broke, so I wired it together) or the choke passages may be dirty and clogged. You can see if the chokes are working by lifting the tank onto it's support rod and observing if the chokes move. If so, you could try some Gumout in the tank, but it's better to take the carbs off and clean them.

You need the manual, but you don't have to disconnect the carbs from each other. To clean the choke passages, take the tops off each carb, take out the spring, and piston/diaphram (don't get carb cleaner on the rubber diaphram), open up the choke full, and stick the nozzle into the air bleed and spray. Wear eye protection because if you don't open the choke it will spray back in your face. Spray until the cleaner comes out the passages in the carb. Clean the piston and walls, put some Vaseline in the groove where the edge of the diaphram goes, and put it together.

 

Slowpoke,

I'm in the prcoess of cleaning mine (carbs) now. I got tired of the bike not starting and it is getting worse as the temps get colder.

I have them apart and I see where the choke (enrichment) moves over to uncover the two holes on the front and back side of the butterfly. I also assumed that the needle covered up the orifice that the fuel took when the choke was on.....

My question is does anyone have a diagram of the path the fuel takes throught the carb. I'm now curious about the choke, low and high speed paths.

Absent any pictures, how does the extra fuel get picked up when you apply the choke?


Mike

 

Apart from checking that the plugs fires and the choke leaver on carbs moves as other have recommended above, also check that the intake valves have the correct lash. The symptoms indicates some intake valves has zero or negative lash.

 

I'm going to say something really simple - cos i'm good at that.

Gas - Compression - Spark - Bang

Now one (or more) of those aint happening as it should.

An easy starting point is spark - do you have a nice fat spark at all the plugs when the engine is cranking?

Replacing HT/plug wires and caps is an inexpensive exercise, so i'd probably look there pretty soon.

 

I have a 1992 1000 F with 80,000 Ks on her and she needs approx 2/3 choke and when it fires a little throttle if I miss that opportunaty to start I give it full throttle then none wait for a minute then 2/3 and she will start, also mine HATED Premium Unleaded the Plugs glaze over so I just run 91 % octane. Once you find the nack of how to start these bikes you are right

[IMG]local://upfiles/7739/A7936B27D8034A849950BB4A33C22997.jpg[/IMG]

 

Well, thanks all for the info-
finally gave up and took to motorcycle mechanic, and he told me :

starter clutch is going out, probs with alternator,
is going to replace clutch.

PS> This is a great site for information for 1000F
AND KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.

I am happy to be a member here

 

When I bought my '93 it was the same, I thought I would wear out the starter and the battery. I then found out how the "CHOKE" works. It is NOT a choke but a variable AIR valve that allows vaciuum to be directed to the TOP of the piston chamber causing the piston / needle to lift when it has vaciuum on cranking to richen the mixture. Simular to British cars that lowered the jet tube to richen the mixture to start. The big thing to know here is if you open the throttle on first starting you break the vaciuum and not allow the piston to lift causing no enrichment and very hard or no start. My XR500 was the same deal. You have to hold the throttle off until it lights THEN apply throttle.
Now full "choke" and no throttle and it lights on first turn at 28 degrees!
I hope this helps solve this problem for others.

Fred

 

Thanx fred, When I get the bike back from the shop I will try that...had to have starter clutch replaced... I miss my bike , but should get it back sometine this month