^You see, once I rub your nose in it, you get the picture. *****!!!!

Actually, they aren't a bad idea if you start thinking about switching bars out form twisties to long haul riding. Standard bars are somewhat cheap and ride height can be moved easily. Once you have the proper triple plate, you can buy any of their bar clamps of different heights or pull back. There is a lot of adjustments to be made when you also factor in different bar shapes.

 

I've decided to do the whole shebang, including the braided lines on the front, and pulling the forks to send them off to RaceTech for the valve emulators and fresh bushings.

As an aside, I had put ConvertiBars on my '03 1100XX, and they worked very well indeed, making the bike look great, and adding significantly to the comfort level. The main pain on that was the co$t (yeouch) and cable routing...

Cheers,

T.

 

The bars are the only thing I'm not happy with on the bike. They were made to go fast and the bars are pulled back and downward. It's that downward angle that gets me after 3 to 4 hours. The pressure to the outside of my hands is what needs to go away. Personally, I don't want to sit up more, I just want the outside pressure off my hands. Regular bars would be a big help for that.

Terry, from the looks of your bike history, it looks like you like to make some long hauls also. I hope all works out for you and can't wait to see your feedback.

 

Update...I've got my disc rotor clearance issues sorted out (rotors mounted backwards), and am back to the control cable routing for the LSL handlebar. I'm hoping to get the slack I need with just routing changes, and not need any custom cables.

Once that's done, I just need to route the Spielger lines for the front pots, bleed everything, and install the speed bleeders.

As an aside...anyone considering the LSL conversion on a CBR1K had better think about it seriously as it's NOT a trivial undertaking.

 

Is that due to bar selection and clearance with windscreen and plastics?

 

Not that I can see, so far. It's mostly a hassle with rerouting the kill switch harness, choke cable, and clutch lines to yield enough clearance for the new LSL bar to turn lock to lock without interference. I'm going to avoid drilling any control retention holes in the bar at this point, and assess whether it becomes necessary.

As an aside, the OEM clip on bar end weights are now useless as well, although Spiegler does offer a bar ends for ~ $40 USD. I'm guessing those or something heavier will probably be necessary for dampening when all is said and done.

Tony Dilworth http://foodman123.com/cbr.htm "[Foodman123"] claimed he was able to do his conversion with routing changes, with no custom cabling work required, so I am optimistic.

 

I'm going to need to make my bike more comfortable as well so SUBBED!

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