It's possible that if the battery wasn't charging, you may get it to start, and then it would stall, but not as quickly as you mentioned - check the charging rate on the battery - above 3000RPM you should be getting upwards of 13.8 volts. If you're not, one of two things -
1 Battery is shot (dead cell after winter can happen even on new batteries)
2 The regulator/rectifier or stator could be fried.
If you jump start it from a car
DO IT WITH THE CAR SWITCHED OFF OR YOU COULD BLOW YOUR ELECTRONICS

 

The battery is going back where it came from 4 months ago to have it tested to see if there's something wrong with it. Call me kooky but...even with my limited knowledge, a bubbling battery is not a good sign.

 

+1 Shadow.

After you fit a new battery i'd be keeping my eye on the reg/rect.

 

Something to bear in mind - CBR1000F's have to have a good battery - the motor may spin on a bad battery, but WON'T fire - the bubbling's a bad sign, I would think .
Let's see what the stealership that sold you the battery has to say........
Let us know what you find.....

 

Well the adloescent boy working behind the counter at Cycle Gear in Jacksonville had NO idea what needed to be done to either charge or test the battery that I brought in last night. He ended up replacing the battery - for free - unfortunately, he didn't fill or charge it for me. I am just about at the end of my already short rope...I didn't even realize it until I got the battery home and of course it was too late to take it back last night. I would have had to fight commuter traffic and stop lights every 50 feet...blah, blah, blah. So tonight I'm looking into investing in my own charger.

We did however do some tearing down of the bike last night in an effort to try to diagnose some of therecommendations mentioned in earlier posts. I discovered that two of my plug wires are badly corroded, one from each of the ignition coils. I'm not sure how to test the coils, so if anyone can help with that it would be much appreciated. One of the wires that needs replacing is #2, which is the non-adjustable carb that we have been using to calibrate the sync tool for the carbs...maybe a big part of the engine problems I have been having? Anyway, we found the ignition coils and wires as a set for a 1987 on EBay for $40.00 - would these work for the 88?

 

1 Coil and other tests are in the manual -

http://members.iinet.net.au/~cbr/Hon...Manual.pdf>
OR
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/midlife/i...ice_Manual.pdf

2 87 coils are fine for the 88 (I think the coils were the same right through, but can't be sure on that) Replace the wires, first, then see if the coils are still a problem.
3 Fill the battery with proper battery acid, not just distilled water ( I made the mistake once)
ALSO - a newly filled battery should be charged for at least 12 hours before you use it in a bike- they're good to go in cars from the shop,because cars have a higher charge rate but NOT for CBR bike batteries ! (Stator doesn't charge much below 3000 RPM, unless you buy an aftermarket one - mine starts charging at 1400 RPM) If you don't charge it up properly, you'll continue to have problems, especially in heavy traffic.
I'd say you've found your problem/s......

 

Ok so here we go - I found a charger at where else, Cycle Gear. I really don't want to go back there if I don't have to. Several other threads mentioned being able to purchase a Battery Tender from Wal Mart? I haven't been able to locate it. I want this fixed ASAP and don't want to have to order something online - I may just have to bite the bullet and go back to Cycle Gear [:'(]

 

Look for an OPTIMATE 3 I have one and it's very good.

 

Well I have the charger - opted for the $20.00 one from Wal-Mart....low budget right now. And I have a set of ignition coils & wires coming from Ebay - should be here in time to be able to put it back together this weekend.

 

Let us know if the problem has been solved please..........