Hopefully just worn tyre and out of balance wheel. Get the front off the ground and check the wheel bearings first, as they're the cheapest possible cause.

Next would be the steering head bearings and last of all, something bent but don't panic about that one until the rest is checked / fixed.

 

yeah i just noticed it.. it does need tires and steering is fine nothing moves i ched that before i bought it and i havent had the front wheel off the ground.... yet thanks for your input!!!! best forum ever!!
thank you thank you thank you

 

+1 On the front tyre, you mentioned it's due for a change, so it needs to be done anyway. Check again after you've renewed it, I'll bet she's stopped shaking her head

As for wheelies and worn head bearings, these girls are heavy and have a long wheelbase, so don't like to wheelie. For that reason they're not owned by peeps that do that style of riding, if she had stock sprockets, I wouldn't worry too much on that count

If it's still happening after the tyre change and the fork seals are leaking, my bet would be uneven oil levels in the forks.

 

Thanks for the link. It is bookmarked until I can get to it. I have a Givi system and can have 3-bags, 2-side bags or just the top box. I get a little shake if I have any bags on in any combo, at 45 MPH when I let go of the bars. I have heard a click in the head from time to time when the bars are turned hard and breaking.

 

If you replace the head stem bearings you will need a head stem socket. About 70$ from honda or you can make one. i used a 38mm socket from oreilys for 10$ and a grinder to make mine.

 

Tobiahr, I remember you grinding one but can't remember what to grind. Did you just shorten it up?

We don't have O'reilys in NY where I live but there is one 1/4 mi from my hotel here in Bay City, TX where I am working now.

 

this was the post https://cbrforum.com/forum/hurricane...e6/#post992276 it was a 35mm but i think a 36 would have worked better. Make sure its an impact socket as those are stronger after grinding. i marked the depth with tape and marked the tab locations by setting it on the head stem nut and marking the tape and kept test fitting while grinding

 

Hey Dane ger,

I asked this same question last year on another forum cos my bike started doing the same thing and got this reply which is state things nicely as copied below, hope it helps. My issue turned out to be a non event, eveything is maintained on my bike but i got 'the wobble' I can make the wobble appear and disappear just by altering my front tyre pressure. If your maintenance is not up to date, I would advise checking the usual suspects i.e head stock bearings, wheel bearings etc.

""That is a well known phenomenon amongst bikers, and its called shimmy, every bike ( even bicycles!) is prone to do it when the circumstances are right (or wrong if you want).
The combination of different stages of wear on front and rear tyre can be a cause, as can over or underinflated tyres. Look on Google or wiki and you'll find an endless list of articles written about it.
Perfectly set up new bikes can do it while ratbikes in a bad state of repair not necessarily have to, even another tread on a new tyre can set it off.
Don't ride hands off and you'll never notice it ""

Cheers A Dub-ya

 

I am fighting the same problem. I have bent forks.

 

I've had the same problem from the time the bike was new. I have found that a 180/55-17 on the rear just about eliminates the wobble. And yes, it is worst when the tires are worn.