^ cb2cbr is finalizing his de-link on his '94. He should be giving feedback in a few weeks. He may have a few pointers.

This may answer some questions -----> LINK

 

I guess we have our own preferences. I love my linked brakes, but I just use my bike as a commuter. I wouldnt like them if I did track days or hard riding though.

 

+1, I like the linked brakes when going easy, which is most of the time, bit like an auto over a manual in the car, they are good for relaxed lazy driving. I used to like using my rear brake to help 'drag' around corners, can't really do that with linked brakes.

 

I'd like to run all 3 pistons to the front brake lever, if I had a mark 3, to give me better brakes at the front, and run the rear like a Mk2, unlinked. Is that what you guys do ?


Is the Mk3 a direct swap with no modifying of plastic required and will fit the Mk2 ?
I'd love to do it too, but paint may be a problem, and decals to make it look original.
I love the description of the Mk2 "Cylon" tail light

 

Indeed Pete, as was explained to me on our trip to Canada in June by TimBucTwo
the delinking process involves drilling an access hole in the middle caliper piston "pot"
to bring it into the (now delinked) brake circuit also a plug is added where the line
feed to that middle piston went..... be interesting to see how CB2CBR (Jim) did with
it.

 

Hey:

Well Shadow on the 5x I've done it, only 2 needed a little under tail plastic trimmed and that was due to a top box and luggage squishing the old tail out. This is one of the reasons they were doing it as the 2nd gen tail was cracked on both.
The only things needed are the 3 rd gen tail , tailight and taillight harness if your old one is in bad condition or cracked. All the rubbers at the mounting points are exactly the same.
The crack was enough for them to finally change it over, for me the look gained would have been enough alone.

On Painting, You should be able to take your bike to any good paint shop or auto body repair center and they can colour match the CBR's colours from very near fine to near perfect. They should be able to take a digital sample of your colour and be able to match/blend it into a colour that you would be hard pressed to see the difference. Do this first, after getting a 3rd gen tail before you install it, that way you can make sure its exactly like you want with no pressure to get it finished. Have one of the many vinyl sign shops either locally or on ebay make the required emblems, install before the final clearcoat and all should be good for a very long time. It is not really that much of a chore for how much better it looks!

On the brakes a 2nd gen has it made as it does not take much but a few adapters and a mod to put newer CBR/VFR/VTR or RC51 wheels on it with way better F4i, VTR1000, or RC-51 brakes, and some of those wheels can be left with the larger axles and made to fit what you have or have the newer wheels re bearinged down to the stock smaller CBR 1KF size. The larger bearings add to the bikes top speed a little, the lighter wheels really help acceleration. plus the rears are 6" wide not 5.5" and gives a 180 a better profile and more contact surface. You gain full floating rotors , 4 piston brakes per side and a better brake pad selection that you ever had with the old stuff. Also with a little patience and keen shopping these parts can be found at very resonable prices.

Add a new good ADJ rear shock (Biturbo, Elka, Fox, Mupo, and Ohlins to name a few), and Progressive front springs with a Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge kit and the bike will be a whole lot better than it was, not as good as a 2011RR, as its still heavy, but able to hold its own without any engine mods and a lot more comfortable than any RR.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do and if you have any? pm me and I'll get back to you as soon as I can with an answer.

Dub

 

WOW !
Thanks for the great answers.
Gives me a lot to think about.
Living where I do, decent paint shops aren't that common - most can do the average car with standard paint, but the colours on a tailpiece may be too much for most. There is one shop that can do it, if I can afford his prices
I think the best option is go to a mate who has retired from the paint business and get him to fire up his colour computer and feed in the data that Sprock got for me and see what we end up with.
On the tail piece and light I'll have to find one from the UK as secondhand ones here just don't exist.
On the wheels, well I'm not going far with that one at the moment due to costs - but the brakes from a newer bike make sense. As does the newer shock.
I'll certainly take all you have said and maybe do the mods bit by bit or the wife'll not have any housekeeping money and I want to be able to stay off the couch when I sleep.
Thanks again.

 

Hey:

This gets you partway there and needs a repaint anyway, does ship WW. HONDA CBR1000 F REAR COWL SET 1990 CBR 1000F 1000F | eBay
Just ask for a better pic of the front tabs to make for certain they are all intact.
This was on a 90 when he broke it for parts but is a 93+ tail.


Dub

 

Thanks Dub !
Well spotted