Looks like I can answer my own question, thanks to the fleabay seller telling me the following;
Hello, the difference in the Honda parts are the material they are made out of. They are dimensionally the same. Since these are all high temp viton material they will work for both intake and exhaust. Using a lower temp material on the intakes was a cost cutting measure done by the factory since viton is more expensive. Thank you.

Just what you don't expect from fleabay a quick answer!
I am still waiting to hear about postage on my vesrah kit.

 

How full a rebuild are you going with? My idea of a full rebuild (which I've done) would include new valve guides, not just the seals. I don't mean to worry you (really!) but while you're in there and spending some serious $$, you might as well go the whole hog and have no worries for another 20 years.

I would also think twice about the Wiseco pistons. They're a great bit of kit (I put an 1170 kit in my GPZ) but the genuine Honda pistons seem to last pretty well and the bikes go pretty damn quick with standard fettle.

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

Dave, I am not going for the full rebuild, I am trying to get out of it as cheaply as I can, the reason I will go the wiseco's if I have to is based purely on price, the wiseco set is just under $500 delivered to me whereas the honda set is $850.

 

Cool mate, I can understand trying to save some coin. My wiseco pistons were high comp jobs with big cut outs for the valves. I had to run octane booster to stop pre-ignition and, in the end, got a spacer made to lower the compression slightly...big waste of $$ really, but I was 20 or so.

If the problem is just oil consumption and a bit of rattling, and you want to get out of it as cheaply as you can, you shouldn't have to touch the bottom end at all. A rebore, pistons, rings, cam chain (with new tensioner and guides), valve seals and a top end gasket set should do it. Hopefully you can just get the head cleaned and valves re-seated. Just get your mechanic to check the guides for you too. From memory, they're not really dear and you just have to get the new ones pressed in by a machinist. If they're worn, your new seals will crap out fast and you'll have to go in again.

Regards,

Dave.

 

Dave,
There are no rattles even when cold, just oil consumption in #3 cylinder as I have to keep cleaning the fouled up plug.

 

In that case, you shouldn't have to part with too much 'hard earned' to fix her up. A top end rebuild isn't really a big deal to do (I haven't done one one these bikes but have on other in line fours).

Just be careful you don't get stitched up! If all you're after is to fix the no3 fouling problem, you really need to see in there yourself and decide how far you want to go before letting a mechanic 'fix it'. It could just be guides and and seals or a rebore too. Ask heaps of questions and ask to see the parts that need replacing for yourself...not in a rude way, just out of curiosity.

 

The mechanic is the one who suggested we have a look inside before ordering too much and is letting me source the parts as he needs them so as to save more money. He is a Canam dealer but used to own a cbr1000f years ago(that is probably why he quoted a day less labour than the young head mechanic at the honda dealer for the full rebuild I looked at getting to start with but was too much for me to part with $3300 at canam $4000 at honda

 

Sounds to me like you are in trustworthy hands there Jarvid with the Canam Guy !

 

Yeah! You can't beat a mechanic who owned one, they feel the love...after all, who wouldn't?? You can soon tell when somebody knows their stuff and actually wants the work, rather than acting like they're doing you a favour.

So, when are you going in to see what's wrong inside the old girl?

 

He wanted to make a start today, but i have put him off until after the easter break, just in case we have some nice weather and I also wanted to have the some of the parts on hand before I drop it off