I'm guessing my earlier comments were not clear. I have voltage coming into the switch at the main feed from the battery. With the switch disconnected I did get continuity between the various connectors, as specified in the manual.

Having exhausted everything I could think of, I did start back through some of the earlier comments - specifically the question about the ground. While I was getting continuity and voltage, I traced the main ground wire and found it a little "loose" at its connection. Taking it off and cleaning got me a dim lighting of the instruments and lights! Nothing would improve that. For whatever reason, I replaced the "new" - 5 month old - AGM battery that has been on a Tender whenever the bike is not being ridden with the old, wet cell, age unknown unit I replaced. Voila!! I have dash lights! I just jury rigged all the electrical connectors together and SAHAZAAM!! I have a working motorcycle!!

Apparently the battery failed such that it would produce the proper voltage but no amps. As I was tracing voltage, I was seeing it where expected, but the machine lives on amps and was getting nothing.

Battery came from Batteries Plus. I've got an email in for the warranty - we'll see how it turns out.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I knew it had to be something simple, fundamental, and obvious - I just never thought it was the "new" battery!

 

That's great new George, AGM batteries need to be trickle charged with AGM
"compatible" chargers ie Smart Chargers.

I have a bunch AGM's I use in boats and a regular non smart charger will screw
them up in no time


Just an FYI from personal experience

 

The battery in question - like all my bikes - is on a Deltran BatteryTender Plus. To the best of my knowledge, this is proper for an AGM battery - but if I am wrong, please correct me before I screw up another one!

I'm just a bit frustrated with all the mental effort for what should have been a simple fix!!

 

1st off I have a wet cell in my bike because the damn electrics are so
sensitive on these relative to charging regulator/rectifiers etc.......so I
just choose to go with old tech to suit the bike ......... I use an Optimate 3
to charge that wet cell as it has a desulphate "recondition" mode.

Relative to AGM .........and I have a chit load of them, a specific smart
charger with an AGM setting, is the way to go and it's a fact that any
other regular charger/tender will mess them up if left on for any lenght
of time, let me go down and snap a PIC of what I use right now

Have 2 of these .........on a Hurricane with an AGM battery you'd
use the lowest 4 amp setting in AGM mode.

Suffice as to say I'd recommend you get an AGM specific charger

These optima batteries I have, specifically state............DO NOT
CHARGE WITH A REGULAR WET CELL CHARGER ! so I'd imagine
the same holds true for the Motorcycle Version

Oh and one other thing AGM's do not need to be trickle charged.

You charge them to Full and then they retain a charge for up to
a year if stored correctly ie dry and above freezing is best.

If the AGM is older then a periodic charge every 3 or 4 months
does the job.........


here's a helpful link

 

Optima batteries are junk. I don't see a multimeter there, your #1 troubleshooting tool.

 

Don't feel bad. I once spent an entire month trying figure out why my pickup wouldn't run before thinking to replace the brand new distributor cap and finding it was the problem.

Glad you found the problem. Happy riding.

 

It wouldn't surprise me if your bad ground was a lot of your issue, too, George. Good you got that fixed. If it was loose, that's not good....
Glad you're up and running now.

 

more like zfrilly don't know jack

 

Just for those like me:

Absorbent glass mat (AGM) is a class of VRLA lead-acid battery in which the electrolyte is absorbed into a fiberglass mat. The plates in an AGM battery may be flat like wetcell lead-acid battery, or they may be wound in a tight spiral. Their unique (for lead acid chemistries) construction also allows for the lead in their plates to be purer as they no longer need to support their own weight as in traditional cells. Their internal resistance is lower than traditional cells, they handle higher temperatures better, and self discharge more slowly.

These batteries have a pressure relief valve which will activate when the battery is recharged at high voltage (typically greater than 2.30 volts per cell, a 12 volt battery has 6 cells). Valve activation allows some of the active material to escape thus decreasing the overall capacity of the battery.The lids (covers) typically have gas diffusers built into them that allow safe dispersal of any excess hydrogen that may be formed during overcharge. They are not permanently sealed, but are maintenance free; and they can be oriented in any manner, unlike normal lead-acid batteries which must be kept upright to avoid acid spills and to keep the plates' orientation vertical.

Their specific power is very good and they can be charged and discharged quite rapidly, however their specific energy tends to be lower than traditional flooded batteries.

Most modern motorcycles on the market utilize AGM or factory-sealed AGM batteries for the combined benefits of reduced likelihood of acid-spilling during accidents, and for packaging reasons (lighter, smaller battery to do the same job, battery can be installed at odd angles if needed for the design of the motorcycle).

NASCAR, IHRA, SCORE, and other top racing leagues are continually seeing AGM products introduced into their vehicles. This is due in large part to the fact that these batteries are vibration resistant, and pack power into every pound.