With several beautiful days this extended weekend, I pulled my '87 1000 out to go for a ride, only to find out that I have NO electricity in the bike. It was ridden into the garage and shutdown with the switch maybe 3-4 weeks age. (Yeah, I know it has been too long, but that is another story.)

The bike lives on a BatteryTender when not in service. There are 14 volts at the battery - but NOTHING electrical works on the bike. I started down the troubleshooting list in the manual following the wiring diagram with the following results:

1. The main fuse at the starter relay - the 30 amp tucked up on the right side of the bike is good and has voltage in and out.

2. The neutral switch appears to be good - at least I got continuity through the wiring when in neutral as the manual calls for.

3. The clutch diode, tucked up under the front cowl appears good - and I checked it against the one from my parts bike. On the diode test setting of my voltmeter (it indicates a battery on the display), I get full scale in one direction, mid 800's (no idea what units) for either of the diodes.

4. I have voltage at the main feed to the fuse block and to the ignition switch.

Turning the switch on/off seems to make no difference. I get no gauge indications, no lights, no fuel pump, and the regulator fan I rigged to the tail light circuits doesn't get power. No horn, no starter - no nothing!

With a total failure like this, it has to be something simple and in the main power circuit - but I'm not seeing it, either on the diagram or on the bike. I am obviously missing something brain dead simple, but right now it has me stumped and frustrated.

ANY suggestions welcome! I'm off to fix a friend's dryer - his wife fed me Thanksgiving dinner - so it's the least I can do.

Any ideas from the wisdom of the list?

 

I agree!

 

How's the " - " (neg') ?

& George if you get a chance ...would you vote for
CBRSIXPACK's Hurricane in the ROTM for November please ?

We like to support our Hurricane Members in the ROTM competition.

 

Not sure what you are asking about the negative. I do have continuity through the main ground wire to the frame.

As for the ignition switch - I have pulled it and have voltage on the main feed. It appears that the connections on the switch plug end are correct. The wires do not quite match the color code on my diagram, but I believe I'm getting the correct connectivity.

I'll try the WD-40 when the sun gets up and it warms a little.

Thanks for the input.

And - I did vote!

 

Ah great that you out the vote in George

You answered what I was wondering


George ........the R/R takes a feed from the 30 AMP main circuit ............so
reading back on your post I see you had to install a cooling fan off the rear
circuit to try and keep the R/R cooler .


My guess is your R/R is finally cooked and is where your problem lies.

Here's an R/R link with all related diag's

 

The R/R was working fine when I parked the bike - I had measured a steady 14.2-3 volts last time I rode it. The voltage feed to the R/R is there.

The cooling fan was more a "preemptive response" to the ongoing discussion of the propensity of these things to overheat and die. Looking at the wiring diagram, I would expect power from the battery to be there even if the R/R were dead and not doing its job.

I've gotten the ignition switch out and it rings out just like the manual shows. There is voltage at the red wire in the harness - what appears to be the main feed into the switch. Still chasing those pesky electrons!

 

Try your sidestand switch - it may be stuck. Not likely but easy to check.
The "kill switch" may also be an area to explore. It was the last think you switched off, when you parked it....................
The lack of dash lights may just be coincidental - a loose connection on the wiring blocks in the right side upper fairing could be at fault...............

You've said the main fuse is OK, and the ignition seems OK.
Check the fuses in the main fuse block to be sure..

I'm guessing, but I think we all are.....................

 

Shadow, form what I gather, his head lamp is not even getting power.
Sprockaholic is referring to the negative cable coming off the battery. What he is asking, is it making good ground to the bike? It may be just that simple.

Check continuity between any ground point on the bike and the negative terminal.

 

[QUOTE=GeorgePBurdell;861028]No.

As for the ignition switch - I have pulled it and have voltage on the main feed.
QUOTE]

Do you mean you have voltage into the switch, or out? If in, then disconnect the switch connector, and with the switch in the on position use an ohm meter to check continutity through the switch from the power in terminal to the rest of the terminals.

Since you seem to have eliminated everything else it sounds like an ignition switch problem.