Well it all started Friday on my way home, i had just dropped onto a dual carriageway rolled the throttle on up-to about 9 grand just going to shift and bwaaaa pop pop whole bike goes dead no ignition lights no-nothing .
Well 15 mins go by and great guy pulls up on a vfr and tows me home approx 4 miles when i get home i start by checking the block connector from the ignition switch all seems fine ,then to the fuses they are also fine ,so i pull the side panel and find the 30amp main fuse has blown so i replace it and everything works bike starts at the slightest touch and runs fine, But then the next morning no lights on the dash everything is completely dead again so i check the fuse but its fine however the battery is stone dead flat with low acid in two cells and after looking at the rectifier i can see what appears to be a tear on the surface just above where it say`s sh261-12 so any help or information would be gratefully accepted

 

Intermittant gremlins are the worst. You have to start troubleshooting with a charged and healthy battery. With that assured and installed, engine running 3000+rpm, read accross the battery terminal with a volt meter. Looking for 13-14.5ish. If you have that we can say charging sytem is ok. To blow the main 30amp fuse something in the main electrical system shorted, if only for a moment. By "main" I mean the parts of the electrical system that don't have their own fuse. No other fuses are blown, correct?
What was the age of the battery? If two cells were dry, what was the last time you serviced/checked it? It is possible that if you had a shorted circuit problem the battery may have been damaged in a prolonged high discharge, especially if the battery was dry or marginal to start with. OHMS law = as voltage decreases, amps increase. Outside chance a new healthy battery would solve the problem but I would be looking real hard at all connectors, clean and no signs of heat distress or loose pins. The wire harness has been beating itself on the frame for 15 or more years. Insulation can be worn thru in those years and miles and find a spot for the electrons to take a shortcut back home. Take a hard look at that too.

 

Yuppers, have the battery tested to assure that link of the chain is good.

Here's a couple of good links that will get your head wrapped around the
big picture. The epoxy coating on the top of the stock r/r should be smooth,
so (with-out a picture, mind you) from your description the r/r is toasted.
The links will help you sort it all out.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-9...-solved-27739/

Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

Hope this helps, Ern

 

checked the charge rate to the battery
If it's less than 13.5V at 4000 RPM

Reg/rec is cooked.
Buy a far better one from Electrex, cheaper than std.

+1 to all of the above comments

 

Yea thanks guy`s the battery is only about 8-9 months old the two cells that were low were just under the low level mark ,but there is defiantly a hole in the rectifier so im going to get one any way