I'm not sure about the T5, but I was under the impression Rotella T6 was the only one in the Rotella series that had the JASO MA cert, making it wet clutch safe. Check the back of the bottle on the T5 and make sure it also has the JASO MA rating.

Sorry to say, but once a clutch starts slipping when no other variable changes, it's time to change it. When you do your clutch change, make sure to soak the friction disks in whatever oil you're gonna use. My suggestion is to get some Honda GN4 10w40 (or 20w50 as some 1000f riders like to use) from your local Honda dealership... it should only be about $20 a gallon and you know it's engineered for your bike and just stick with it. One of the techs in the shop has an early 90s VFR with around 150k on the clock, used conventional GN4 for the life of it and he's only on his second clutch pack from stock.

 

So I get my clutch parts, 5 Barnett springs, Barnett friction discs ,clutch gasket, Oil rotella t6 check , So I remove panels,, clutch cover, clutch bolts and springs. remove plates Clean off gasket
Check over steel plates, hit with scotch brite OK Springs are right, proper quantity
Get out new Barnett friction discs and cleaned steels and start to build clutch ,,, Oh no!!! my clutch has 9 friction discs and the Barnett set has only 7!!!! I check the tag on the Barnett plates bag and it says 87-88 Honda Cbr 1000F What do I do now?,,,,,,, I contacted seller and seller is sending 2 more plates for free !!!
Check the clutch gasket Oh no !!!they sent a cbr 600 gasket Have to return it darn it!! Usually Ebay is better then this! Found another gasket and ordered should have by weekend,
I have a question, on the Barnett plates ... do they include the fiber plate that is supposed to be the first fiber disc to be installed with the spring washer on the clutch hub

 

I just did mine yesterday, and it was extremely easy.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-tos-8...ven-try-35296/

Use a torque wrench. The previous owner of my bike obviously didn't and I get to deal with extracting 2 studs from the clutch basket.

 

Well, its done . When I got my plates to install they did not send enough plates. Just got them this weekend and installed them . After I installed the new parts I wasn't getting the spring support plate to clamp. I had about 1/8 inch past the last disc and clutch was free to turn . I think in the time I was waiting for parts my clutch push rod was extending. I had to loosen the line at the clutch cylinder and let some fluid out to get the spring seat to seat against the outer friction disc. All is good now . test drive good!! Thanks

 

Well Its not done . For some reason the T6 Rotella oil is allowing slippage. I almost didn't make it home yesterday. Works OK when first started and for the first 15 min. Very crisp shifting and worked very good then I hit the rush hour traffic and slowed down and as I pulled into work it slipped at the 2nd gear accell just a little. On the way home more traffics and stop and go and after 10 min slipped in every gear. !/2 way home I had to pull over and wait until the temp went to less then half and then was able to get home. I am puzzled as I double checked and the T6 has the Jaso Ma designation on it.
So What should I run in this and what should I do to flush the oil out .
Can I just change the oil? Use some internal engine cleaner? Remove and solvent clean the plates and discs?

 

Hello Randy

This is a message to all of you having problem with slippery clutch. In the oil reservoir for the clutch you will find a small piece of thin steel. Remove this part carfully. Under this part there is a hole of 0.1mm in dia. Use a needle to open the hole for oilpressure in the oil hose. Here is high pressure, and there will go a lot of oil up in the air at this moment. So cover your bike when you lift of the needle. Voila. All your problems are gone...


... My clutch was so slippery that I could park the bike on the sidestand in 1st gear with the engine running... yepp I tryed...

Rune

 

Ok Its fixed !!!!!! Thanks to RuneC3 for the last tip. I did as suggested and and the clutch now works great and was able to hit 10 k for the first time ever!!! no slipping at all !! Thanks to all for all of the replys

 

Great tip RuneC3 , so noted for future clutch jobs if needed