Changing coolant
Joined: May 2006
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Gold Coast, Australia
RE: Changing coolant
I top the coolant level up on my bike when I got it, I check it after a ride and it was down again, this happen a couple of time and then it was good.
I thought I was losing water (not a good feeling), so now I know that it may need topping up a couple of time if I ever do a Coolant change, which is my next task for my bike.
I thought I was losing water (not a good feeling), so now I know that it may need topping up a couple of time if I ever do a Coolant change, which is my next task for my bike.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 299
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From: Pittsburgh Pennsylvania
RE: Changing coolant
That article about covered it but I disagree with the "remove radiator cap" part before to drain. Try to drain it without removing the cap. If the flow won't start, remove the cap to get it started but then try to re-install the cap before it drains completely. The reason for this difference in procedure is to NOT make a seperate step of trying to drain the overflow bottle. If the cap is functioning correctly it will allow the flow at that low siphon and will draw the overflow bottle volume through without making that another step. This has always worked for me.
Additionally, after the system is drained and the cap removed, inspect the cap carefully. It's a key part of the cooling system in that it keeps the water from boiling, flashing to steam, at temps above the boiling point of water at atmospheric pressure. If the gasket's not sealing expect troubles when temps climb in traffic. I replace my cap about every two or three years, as the gasket starts to show a distinct set from the raised lip in the neck.
Also, the cap can be purchased at the auto parts store for about 1/3 the price of the Honda part. They aren't likely to have a listing but it's the same cap that's on a BUNCH of Mitsubishi models all through the nineties and maybe later. Take your cap in to physically compare because I don't remember the model number but it will physically compare and also is the same pressure rating, 13 PSI. If it looks physically right, has the 13 PSI rating, then applications tell you it fits a bunch of Mitsubishi cars, you've got the right one.
Also, on the water pump drain bolt, apply a small amount of non-hardening gasket sealer on the threads to assure a seal. I use Perma-tex Aviation #2, purchased in a small bottle with a brush in the cap. Apply starting a few threads from the end. This assures a seal without overtightening the small bolt in aluminum threads but also seals the threads which can be a source of galvanic corrosion from the steel bolt in the aluminum threads. It also never hardens so if you ARE sloppy with it and some finds its way internally, it won't harden and cause any problems from a loose solid floating around in the system. Good luck.
Additionally, after the system is drained and the cap removed, inspect the cap carefully. It's a key part of the cooling system in that it keeps the water from boiling, flashing to steam, at temps above the boiling point of water at atmospheric pressure. If the gasket's not sealing expect troubles when temps climb in traffic. I replace my cap about every two or three years, as the gasket starts to show a distinct set from the raised lip in the neck.
Also, the cap can be purchased at the auto parts store for about 1/3 the price of the Honda part. They aren't likely to have a listing but it's the same cap that's on a BUNCH of Mitsubishi models all through the nineties and maybe later. Take your cap in to physically compare because I don't remember the model number but it will physically compare and also is the same pressure rating, 13 PSI. If it looks physically right, has the 13 PSI rating, then applications tell you it fits a bunch of Mitsubishi cars, you've got the right one.
Also, on the water pump drain bolt, apply a small amount of non-hardening gasket sealer on the threads to assure a seal. I use Perma-tex Aviation #2, purchased in a small bottle with a brush in the cap. Apply starting a few threads from the end. This assures a seal without overtightening the small bolt in aluminum threads but also seals the threads which can be a source of galvanic corrosion from the steel bolt in the aluminum threads. It also never hardens so if you ARE sloppy with it and some finds its way internally, it won't harden and cause any problems from a loose solid floating around in the system. Good luck.
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