Chain plan
#1
Chain plan
Dredged up these two old threads and intend to go to the local shop tomorrow and ask for a 16T(-1) JT sprocket, 530XSO chain and 44T(+2) JT rear sprocket.
I want a master-link chain so I'll be able to remove it and clean out all the oil and gunk that builds up in the cavity between rear tyre replacements.
Should I ask if they have O, X & W-ring chains that will fit or just say I want an X-ring?
Since the standard chain for 1KF’s are 120 links, will I need a different number of links to go around the smaller front and larger rear sprockets? I want to fit the chain and sprockets myself but I don’t have a chain breaker so I want to get the shop to use theirs to cut the chain to length.
I want a master-link chain so I'll be able to remove it and clean out all the oil and gunk that builds up in the cavity between rear tyre replacements.
Should I ask if they have O, X & W-ring chains that will fit or just say I want an X-ring?
Since the standard chain for 1KF’s are 120 links, will I need a different number of links to go around the smaller front and larger rear sprockets? I want to fit the chain and sprockets myself but I don’t have a chain breaker so I want to get the shop to use theirs to cut the chain to length.
#3
RE: Chain plan
You are better off using chain wax. It is a great product. It doesn’t come off as easy as oil in the rain and doesn’t crap up your rear tire. I go 600 miles between waxing. You can keep a can in a tank bag for rides over 600 miles or so. I have ridden in the rain 625 miles and the next day the chain still had some wax on it. One thing, a clean chain is a dry chain. If your rollers are shiny, the chain is dry. With the wax it is far easier to tell if it needs a quick and mess-less spray. It is easier to spray the inside of the chain where it is needed the most; with the little red tube they give you, also. I have been riding for 35 years and after using this product once, I could not go back to anything else. It doesn’t crap up the engine case where the front sprocket is either. You don't have to clean your chain to start using it. When I get a new chain, I ride until it needs a spray.
As far as new chain length, grind off the ends of the pins on one plate and pry the link apart. Change the sprockets and use your old chain as a guide as to needing more or less links.
BTW, your stock chain should have had 114 links.
http://www.maximausa.com/products/ch...s/chainwax.asp
[IMG]local://upfiles/8473/FB28163DC87443E39700511F34980C15.jpg[/IMG]
EDIT: Your bike shop should have the wax.
As far as new chain length, grind off the ends of the pins on one plate and pry the link apart. Change the sprockets and use your old chain as a guide as to needing more or less links.
BTW, your stock chain should have had 114 links.
http://www.maximausa.com/products/ch...s/chainwax.asp
[IMG]local://upfiles/8473/FB28163DC87443E39700511F34980C15.jpg[/IMG]
EDIT: Your bike shop should have the wax.
#4
RE: Chain plan
I've been converted to chain wax for a while now, but i still have a couple of cans of other products so I've been throwing them on in between times... essentially i can't bare to throw away 3/4 full cans of stuff.
If you can think of any other uses for the lube, I'd be interested
If you can think of any other uses for the lube, I'd be interested
#6
RE: Chain plan
+1 with TimBucTwo on the chain wax. I put the bike up on the rear stand, use a grunge brush and some kerosene to clean it. It does a good job. Once the chain is cleaned, I run the bike in gear for a bit just to "fing" off any kerosene (even after I wipe it with a rag). While that happens it heats up the chain a little, then I spray the chain wax on, heavy enough to get in between the rings, etc... I am over zealous on my maintinence, so I do this about every other fill up.
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