Right. I probably won't rely too much on the crc/WD40 for a solution 'cos I guess after a while it will wear off and I'd be back to a sticky slider. But a gentle wet'n'dry ing is probably on the cards. I'd like to know, however, whether any other forum inhabitants have experienced similar symptoms caused by a sticky slider(s) before I wipp the carbs off again.

 

When you manually push up the slider you should hear a decided sucking "woosh" sound. If you don't hear that the 1st place I would look would be the diagram of the carb(s) that don't make that sound.

 

hamlin6, thanks for your response. I don't have the carbs dismounted again (yet) so can't verify that right now but thanks for the pointer. Do you think a sticking slider could create the symptoms I'm getting?

 

You can actually check tat without removing the carbs. The airbox would however need to b removed.
I don't personally think that would cause your throttle to be sticky. That is more of a mechanical reaction if the cables not reacting correctly to the spring tension. But I might not be properly understandingyour issue.

 

Will the airbox come out without taking off the carbs? I've tried jiggling it around before and not found a way to get it out with the carbs still mounted on the engine. It's not really the throttle (or handgrip) sticking (they are both free and spring back with no problem) but the revs stay high "as if" the throttle was still open.

 

I can speak to the f3 which the airbox can be. It actually mounts on top of the carb intakes.

IThanks for the clarification, I understand better. From what you said, the sliders could be the culprit, especially if you know one of them was hanging.

 

On the CBR1000F the airbox is kind of wedged in between the carbs at the front and the frame at the rear and pretty much impossible to prise out. Not one of Honda's better design decisions. Your thoughts about the slider, however, are tending to confirm my own. I'm trying to girder my loins to yank those babies off ..... again. Do think a light wet'n'dry ing of the plastic slider and the bore of the carb would be reasonable?

 

If the diagram and spring are in good shape and everything is really clean, that is all that should be needed.
​​​​Play close attention to the passage where the needle sits. Speaking of the needles, there's no chance that they are bent is there?

 

Can't be sure about the needle(s) not being bent at the moment but I'll pay good attention when the carbs are off again. I hope not 'cos getting hold of a replacement would be a challenge. About the passageway into which the needle passes, is there a "best way" to ensure they're clean or is it simply blasting with carb cleaner?

 

I like to let carb cleaner sit and soak for a good long while. Then I run a small wire through to break up anything. Then hit it with compressed air.
I do that process a couple times until I am positive everything is squeaky clean