UPDATE: Carbs are cleaned. I repaired the damaged carb insulator with Black RTV Silicone Adhesive. It works great. Also coated the other carb insulators with a thin coating of the stuff. No air or fuel leaks here. Let it cure for 24 hrs. Also once cured you can trim with a razor blade very easy. The repaired carb insulator looks almost like new.

With the cost of 40 bucks a piece for a carb insulator it was worth it to go this route.

Once I buttoned everything up, started her up, she idled fantastic. Took her out for a spin. Definitely more power. Nice thing about her now is when I come to a stop the rpms arent at 2-3K . I used to have to let the clutch out slowly to put a load on the motor to bring the rpms down to 1000 when I would have to stop the bike at a redlight or stop sign. Real pain. I dont know how the previous owner lived with that. I hated it, so I fixed it.

As far as more power, well before she was pretty much running off 3 carbs maybe 3.5 carbs .There was a small chunk of rubber missing out of the #2 carb insulator. When I took the #2 carb insulator off you could see where fuel was running down under the intake port onto the engine casing. I dont know how much fuel was actually getting to the #2 carb. Funny thing was she seemed to run pretty strong with this going on. Pulled a newer R6 by a couple feet. Hmm wonder how bad I would pull him now. Well now she does pull alot harder in the upper RPMs.

Well she idles perfect now. Next on the list will be a cam chain tensioner.
Probably will do that this winter ,just having to much fun riding her now.

 

Good job Matt.

Did you take any photos of the repair job?

Cheers, SB

 

I have a couple pictures of the #2 carb insulator that was missing a small chunk of rubber before the repair. Also a pic of the RTV black Silicone Adhesive. I did not take any of the insulator after the RTV repair and I meant to. The RTV works very well and is quite strong and flexible. I also put a small bead of RTV inside the carb insulator where the inside lip meets the intake port. Smoothed it out with my finger so it was flush with the inside lip and where the intake port meet. That way I know that its air tight. Also put a very small amount on the inside groove of the insulator where the carb port slide into. Yes its leak free and air tight.

After I got every thing buttoned up. With the motor running I also sprayed WD40 around the tubes to see if the RPM would come up. No change in rpms at all. Perfect ! Before I did the repair I did the WD40 check and all 4 carb insulators leaked, not just the #2 as you could tell by the big RPM increase. I am pleased with the results.