for me it's Mr Alexander Keiths that aleviates my problems... and my good buddy wieser too

and on a really positive note, the bike is making more power again... a few days ago i resyched the carbs running it at 3000 rpm, it didn't seem to make much differance, but it idled a little worse.. now today particularly it seems to have regained a lot of it's power... hard for me to say if its where it's supposed to be, but I was riding along at about 30 MPH, reved it and dumped the clutch hoping to pull a wheelie, instead i broke he back tire loose and laid a strip 100 feet long on the highway onramp.. maybe it's the gas I got from the spicy wontons i had that is making it run better ROFL

 

Hey wait a second. I'ts spring time down under and you will have all summer to ride while we will be seeing cold and snow.

 

It's just coming into B.B.Q. session here.
Just got all the gas cylinders refilled, BBQ has been upgraded, just need to clean the fridges and stock them up and I’m ready.

I just pick the bike up, A$925
New Cam Chain;
New Tensioner;
New Plugs;
Value Adjustments
Carbie Balance;
Air filter cleaned
Had a lot of labour, there was a problem with the fairing, they had to make a bracket to replace a missing one and half the bolts were missing.

Everything needed adjusting, the Air Filter was dirty as, It was a washable K&N.
One carbie was flooding and the bike really needed a balance.

Still have some noise, they say the bike has a bit of piston slap, but should be OK for quite a few years to come. They reckon it’s a good bike, but they also said to bear in mind that it has done nearly 109,000km (68,000miles) and it’s not going sound like a new bike.

It rides a lot nicer, lot more zippy, but haven’t gone for a descent ride yet.
Overall power has pick up, I was suffering a lot of power loose under 3,000rmp, but that now quite good. Lot smoother, clutch and gears even feel better.

I haven’t been over 5,000rpm so I not sure if the 7,000rpm engine breakdown is still there.

With the noise, it now sounds more tappy, where before it sounded like the engine was full of stones.

 

Awesome news Mark! Let 'er rip and have a great time. I think I'll change that chain out just for fun. It's not very expensive and shouldn't be hard to do. I'm going to put some new tires on this week (I hope) and get my '87 out for a ride or two soon.

 

Awesome news about your bike! I know its always painful, at least for me, to have to open the wallet but it sounds like you should'nt have any issues for a while. The shop called me last night about 5:30 to say that my parts were in. I go as soon as I got off of work and come to find out, this week they changed their hours, now they close at 6:00. [:@] At least I know that by tonight I will be riding again.
BTW I just recieved my Gericke Comp gloves from Cyclegear.com. They are better than I expected by far, really nice gloves, great materials and features, and awesome price!

 

Can someone tell me preload, Is it Front Back or Both, and how I adjusted it and what does it do to the bike?

 

YO PEEPS WHAT UP ALL

HERES A COOL LINK TO SOME DUDES SITE U MIGHT FIND HELPFUL

HOPE U LIKE AND GOOD LUCK


http://www.bossturbo.com/cbr/howto_cct.shtml

SEE LINK ABOVE FOR MORE
How to replace the Cam Chain Tensioner Lifter on a 2000 CBR-600 F4


Time required: anywhere from 45 minutes to 2.5 hours
Level of difficulty: Fairly Simple and straightforward
Tools needed: see pic below
I am not responsible for any damage caused by these instructions. Proceed at your own risk. I do my best to make sure they are accurate. Always wear the proper safety gear and use common sense.

Popularly known as the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT), this tutorial will show you how to replace the Cam Chain Tensioner Lifter as Honda calls it. If you go to your dealer and ask for the Cam Chain Tensioner then you will get the wrong part!

The tools below should be everything you need from start to finish to change the CCT (including gas tank). From Left to Right, Top to Bottom: 1/4"-->3/8" adapter, 6" extension (1/4"), 1/4" elbow, 5mm socket (1/4" drive), piece of 5mm allen key from stock toolkit, 3/8" wrench, Cam Chain Tensioner Lifter, 10mm open end wrench, 5mm allen wrench, 8mm socket (1/4" drive), 12mm socket (3/8" drive), 3" extension (3/8"), CCT gasket, phillips head screwdriver. I just prefer to use the 3/8" wrench; however, you can use the 1/4" for removing the CCTL if you want.

 

Nice tutorial, but the CCT for the CBR 1000F is different. The 600 has the tensioner on the outside of the engine, while the 1000 is under the cam chain inside the cylinder head.

As for preload, it's only on the rear, on the lower right side. Setting sag according to your weight and passenger. I have the preload and rebound set about halfway between high and low. You can experiment to see what works best for you.

 

I don’t, have a manual with my bike.
On the right, there is an adjuster, is that the preload or the rebound?

 

Yours might be different, but my '90 has a 22-position spring preload adjuster. Using an 8mm socket, turning clockwise increases preload and hardens the ride. For the damping, the phillips head screw is on the bottom of the shock. Look through the gap at the rear brake lever pivot to the red rear spring. The phillips head screw that's hard to get to is the adjuster. Turn clockwise to reduce damping and soften the ride. Mine goes less than a full turn from hard to soft.