The stock wires can be checked for resistance using a voltmeter. There are resistors in the plug wires that can go bad. If your's has one, it is behind the screw in the cap that hooks onto the top of the spark plug. I took mine out and replaced them with machine screws I cut the same length as the resistor. With the resistors in the wires gone and regular plugs instead of resistor plugs, you get a nice healthy spark.

 

RX ! 1 thing i have found with after market air filter `s Is that when people bye them they don`t rejet . 4 cabs are bitch to rejet. The thing is that a k&n filter will allow alot more air , Which inturn lean`s the carb`es.
RuTRow!

 

well, this machine has been rejetted as far as I know... any knowledge about the compatibility of silicone wires? I have some I can cut up and adapt... this weekend I might do a valve lash adjustment, and if I get to it a float level adjustment as well... I think the reason the #3 plug looks rich is because that cylinder is burning some oil.. I took that plug out again today and it looked wet... however, the bike *never* smokes... maybe it is pig rich, but the bike had just run for an hour on my way home from work so it should have been hot enough to just burn off any fuel and maybe be a little sooty.. which says it's oil.. #4 (the lean one) still had virtually no deposits on it

 

I've book my bike in for a new cam chain, and when they open it up, they will look at the CCT, they wanted me to buy one and throw it straight in, but I told them to look at the old one first, as they are hydraulic, do they wear out or only if they chain was allowed to get to loose. I know that if the CCT is still good, it will need a major clean.

I going to get them to do the valves clearance, carbies, plug and air filter at the same time.

 

I'm planning on doing my valve lash this weekend, so i'm going to possibly take a look at teh cam chain and tensioner while i'm at it... how much tension should there be on the cam chain at idle? is it possible for the cam (either one) to jump a tooth if the engine moves backward at all? that could be one of my power problems if that's at all possible

 

I have never done a valve adjustment, so bare with my questions.
If your cam jumped a tooth, wouldn't that have damaged a valve and/or piston????
The synch in one of those 4 pistons is going to be off bad.
Also, I think ALL sparks plugs would be bad.

 

A cam chain would have to really be loose to skip a tooth. You'd hear it rattling long before you'd skip teeth. Even if it did it would have to several teeth off before valve/piston interference occured. It could happen, though. If one or both cams are out of time it would affect performance. I've been in the same place RX7Man is: "It's gotta be running rich, can't be oil. Just can't be." It was oil. Time to face facts: One cylinder (#4) is running way lean, mixture is okay on the others - that means #4 carb needs to be checked for vacuum leaks, plugged passages or float height. #3 may be burning some oil, although a way rich idle could soak the plug even after an hour's ride. If it is burning oil that means either rings / valve seals leaking or maybe loose valve guides. Is it serious enough to warrant a rebuild? That's up to RX7 and what he can tolerate in the way of blue smoke.

If you don't have a Clymer, Haynes or Honda service manual for your bike, get one and follow the procedure outlined for adjusting the pilot screws (idle mixture screws) to be sure they are where they should be. It's strongly recommended the carbs be gone through first to be sure all passages are clear, floats are set properly, etc. Replacing wires is good idea. Set the valves, check cam timing, then re-synch the carbs. It wouldn't be a bad idea to run a compression check. A new engine should show 175 psi, but no matter what your engine shows the variation shouldn't be more than 10% from high reading to low.

Good luck.

 

The bike is going in this morning, I rode it yesterday and apart from rattle - rattle - rattle, I am now finding that under low rev's and low acceleration, I have a cylinder that misses.
I have been quoted AUS$125 for the cam chain, AUS$270 for the Tensioner(which I hope that I don't have to get, labour they reckon is usually 2.5 hours at AUS$66 per = AUS$165 (AUS is for Australian Dollar)

 

wel, the bike *never* smokes, not under decel, and not even a puff at startup, thoughit has no black smoke either, but it would really have to be pig rich for that to occur.. I think on saturday i'm going to tear the top off the engine, and possibly remove the carb, that will be the only way i can get to the root of this.. maybe i'll get as deep into it to take out and clean/inspect the CCT... I figure if it's valve seals on 33 that are causing the black plug then that should be fixable without taking the head off... apply compressed air toth cylinder at BDC wit all the valves closed and you should be able to pop te valve springs out and replace the valve stem seals... might be a little tough to compressthe valve springs, but nothing is impossible... wish me luck? lol

 

Good luck. Hope you find the problem.