Brakes and tires.....some questions.....
#1
Brakes and tires.....some questions.....
Put this here as I wasn't sure if I should put it in the "How To" section. I apologize in advance if it actually SHOULD be there.
Ok. I have the service manual and my new tires are in so I'm pulling the rims myself to have the tires mounted. (Saves SO much money) My brake fluid is a HIDEOUS shade of brown and that simply WON'T DO.
I've never pulled rims from a motorcycle before and it looks pretty straightforward but when I have them off, I'm going to replace all the brake pads and COMPLETELY flush the system.
Would there be any issues with opening the bleeder valves and vacating all the fluid in there and then going back and adding new fluid or should I just flush it the normal way? Also, is there anything I should be overly concerned about when attempting this? Is one of those little hand vacuum pumps worth it to save time/headaches?
Apologies for the n00blet questions. Just want to make sure I do it all correctly. It looks pretty straightforward but I figure that people that have owned these bikes for a while now may have some good insight on do's and don'ts.
As always, thank you in advance for any help or guidance. I've already learned a ton about my 94 1000F here and continue to learn.
Ok. I have the service manual and my new tires are in so I'm pulling the rims myself to have the tires mounted. (Saves SO much money) My brake fluid is a HIDEOUS shade of brown and that simply WON'T DO.
I've never pulled rims from a motorcycle before and it looks pretty straightforward but when I have them off, I'm going to replace all the brake pads and COMPLETELY flush the system.
Would there be any issues with opening the bleeder valves and vacating all the fluid in there and then going back and adding new fluid or should I just flush it the normal way? Also, is there anything I should be overly concerned about when attempting this? Is one of those little hand vacuum pumps worth it to save time/headaches?
Apologies for the n00blet questions. Just want to make sure I do it all correctly. It looks pretty straightforward but I figure that people that have owned these bikes for a while now may have some good insight on do's and don'ts.
As always, thank you in advance for any help or guidance. I've already learned a ton about my 94 1000F here and continue to learn.
#2
When you replace the rubbers and seals in the callipers or master cyliders all fluid is removed, so there shouldn't be any problem draining all out and replacing with new.
However - and it's a big however, if the current fluid is a hideous shade of brown it is likely you will have deposits lurking in various areas of the master cylinder reservoir or callipers. Even if you don't replace the seals, I'd be pulling it all apart and cleaning/blowing it all out.
I had one recently where the bleedback pin-hole in the master cylinder was blocked with crud, and when the brakes were initially applied would lock the front wheel. It took me two goes to find the problem.
Good luck with it, and let us know how you go.
Cheers, SB
However - and it's a big however, if the current fluid is a hideous shade of brown it is likely you will have deposits lurking in various areas of the master cylinder reservoir or callipers. Even if you don't replace the seals, I'd be pulling it all apart and cleaning/blowing it all out.
I had one recently where the bleedback pin-hole in the master cylinder was blocked with crud, and when the brakes were initially applied would lock the front wheel. It took me two goes to find the problem.
Good luck with it, and let us know how you go.
Cheers, SB
#3
Join Date: Aug 2008
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There's a whole sequence to flushing and bleeding DCBS (linked brakes) on your 94 btw and is a bit of a pita to do.
Tires and fairly straight forward , toughest part is braking the bead on the rear. Also it's
advisable to use rim savers so the tire irons do not chip the hell out of the rim paint
The link for Brake Bleeding DCBS
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...-model-102549/
and another where the PITA part comes into play
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...3-model-81289/
Tires and fairly straight forward , toughest part is braking the bead on the rear. Also it's
advisable to use rim savers so the tire irons do not chip the hell out of the rim paint
The link for Brake Bleeding DCBS
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...-model-102549/
and another where the PITA part comes into play
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...3-model-81289/
#4
Thanks for the tips and help.
The fluid in the front and rear was a DARK brown. Like flat coke brown. I don't even know how I had brakes at all. o_O
I checked the pads and found out that they were almost new so I left them in. I did flush the entire system. Took a little while but now I have fresh DOT 4 in there and the lever is FIRM! I did notice that my combined brakes don't seem to work. The front doesn't control the rear at all. I don't know if someone did a conversion to stop it or if there's something wrong with the valve but a test ride showed that there's PLENTY of stopping power now. (I almost launched myself actually.)
The poor clutch was worse. There was sediment in the master cylinder. Found out where the slave was and bled the POOP out of it too. All fresh fluid now. Amazingly enough I seem to have MUCH more clutch now. (Not that it slipped or anything before.)
Thanks again for your guidance and help. Still learning but it's fun. Just wish I was more mechanical.
Tomorrow, I pull the rims. I'm taking them up to Cycle Gear and they'll mount my new tires. Some Shinko Ravens. I had Shinko Verge on my Meanstreak and really liked them. Plus you can't beat the price. $192 for the SET!
CHEERS!
The fluid in the front and rear was a DARK brown. Like flat coke brown. I don't even know how I had brakes at all. o_O
I checked the pads and found out that they were almost new so I left them in. I did flush the entire system. Took a little while but now I have fresh DOT 4 in there and the lever is FIRM! I did notice that my combined brakes don't seem to work. The front doesn't control the rear at all. I don't know if someone did a conversion to stop it or if there's something wrong with the valve but a test ride showed that there's PLENTY of stopping power now. (I almost launched myself actually.)
The poor clutch was worse. There was sediment in the master cylinder. Found out where the slave was and bled the POOP out of it too. All fresh fluid now. Amazingly enough I seem to have MUCH more clutch now. (Not that it slipped or anything before.)
Thanks again for your guidance and help. Still learning but it's fun. Just wish I was more mechanical.
Tomorrow, I pull the rims. I'm taking them up to Cycle Gear and they'll mount my new tires. Some Shinko Ravens. I had Shinko Verge on my Meanstreak and really liked them. Plus you can't beat the price. $192 for the SET!
CHEERS!
#5
#7
The service manual is EXTREMELY helpful. I'm just nervous about mucking stuff up. Being an Engineer, I'm pretty damn good at following instructions, it's just mechanical stuff boggles me. I don't think I'd ever do a carb balance or valve adjustment but simpler stuff, I'm ok with.
I was just reading the sticky about the "stick coil" mod and think I may perform that one in the near future.
I love being part of a forum. It's a great idea to help each other. It's hard sometimes when you buy and older bike like mine because people move on and forget. If you can find a group of people with knowledge though, we can all learn and maybe even rekindle the excitement of when you first owned yours or something.
Anyhoo...bored at work......thanks again all!
#9