Brake discs: update
My bike is shaking when I use front brake.
I have changed pads and brake fluid but it doesnt help.
The local garage says its the discs. When I ask how that can be, he blames it on not original brake pads.
I find it hard to believe.
So I have found this place on the net and I believe it´s orignal parts.
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/c...i/Catalogue.pl
Anyone that has bought anything from them?
Does anyone has any alternative source where I could buy it from (as cheap as possible) ?
I have changed pads and brake fluid but it doesnt help.
The local garage says its the discs. When I ask how that can be, he blames it on not original brake pads.
I find it hard to believe.
So I have found this place on the net and I believe it´s orignal parts.
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/c...i/Catalogue.pl
Anyone that has bought anything from them?
Does anyone has any alternative source where I could buy it from (as cheap as possible) ?
Always handle the wheels with some care when dismounted. It's not that hard to accidentally bend a rotor, resulting in what you've described. The newer floaters with aluminum centers are even more delicate. Dropping and tire irons against them are two culprits. A big pry bar against the rotor during a brake reline can be trouble, too. That much force shouldn't be required and certainly not applied against the rotor with such force to bend it.
The pads shouldn't be a problem. A seized piston in a rotor can be but should bring other indicators with it.
For what it's worth, I've repeatedly worked over the rotors on my bike at the track, braking from well over 100 MPH, twice in approx. 1 1/2 mile lap, hard enough that the rear is wandering and not maintaining engine RPM on downshifts due to insufficient weight on the rear wheel, blueing the rotors, yet never warped one. That's with stock, EBC and Vesrah HH pads. The bike's got 122,000 miles on it, original front rotors. I've always marveled at what a good job those radially cut reliefs do at preventing rotor warping due to differentials in temperature from the friction face to the unswept area.
On the other hand, my kid's EX-500 rotor gets warped at the track due to a non-existant relief system that gives that strain nowhere to go, resulting in a warped rotor both times now that I've taken a new one to the track. The kids aren't that hard on it... yet. Need an EBC floater for it, I guess.
The pads shouldn't be a problem. A seized piston in a rotor can be but should bring other indicators with it.
For what it's worth, I've repeatedly worked over the rotors on my bike at the track, braking from well over 100 MPH, twice in approx. 1 1/2 mile lap, hard enough that the rear is wandering and not maintaining engine RPM on downshifts due to insufficient weight on the rear wheel, blueing the rotors, yet never warped one. That's with stock, EBC and Vesrah HH pads. The bike's got 122,000 miles on it, original front rotors. I've always marveled at what a good job those radially cut reliefs do at preventing rotor warping due to differentials in temperature from the friction face to the unswept area.
On the other hand, my kid's EX-500 rotor gets warped at the track due to a non-existant relief system that gives that strain nowhere to go, resulting in a warped rotor both times now that I've taken a new one to the track. The kids aren't that hard on it... yet. Need an EBC floater for it, I guess.
Rhino,
I had exactly the same issue with my 1990 F-L. The bike shop changed the pads and told me that was everythign sorted, but in actual fact it was the brake disks that were slightly warped and gouged. I bought the honda brake disks, pads and piston seals from David Silver Spares and would highly recommend them. They gave an excellent service and a far as I could find were the cheapest in the UK for genuine parts, in fact there genuine parts were cheaper than some of the after market patterned parts.
I don't believe the point about the non-genuine pads being the problem tho, I currently have EBC green pads fitted to the front of mine now and they're far better than what the shop fitted previously.
So I changed the disks, pads, stripped and cleaned the pistons and now the brakes are sweeter than they have ever been.
The job in total wasn't particuarly difficult, the worst problem I had was getting the pistons in the calipers to come out, its the old balancing act of applying pressure to certain pistons to get the others to come out evenly etc..... but by the sounds of it you only need to replace the pads and the disks.
Hope that helps anyway, but I would certainly recommend David Silver, I've bought a lot of stuff from them now including parts for my fairings.
Cheers,
Kev.
I had exactly the same issue with my 1990 F-L. The bike shop changed the pads and told me that was everythign sorted, but in actual fact it was the brake disks that were slightly warped and gouged. I bought the honda brake disks, pads and piston seals from David Silver Spares and would highly recommend them. They gave an excellent service and a far as I could find were the cheapest in the UK for genuine parts, in fact there genuine parts were cheaper than some of the after market patterned parts.
I don't believe the point about the non-genuine pads being the problem tho, I currently have EBC green pads fitted to the front of mine now and they're far better than what the shop fitted previously.
So I changed the disks, pads, stripped and cleaned the pistons and now the brakes are sweeter than they have ever been.
The job in total wasn't particuarly difficult, the worst problem I had was getting the pistons in the calipers to come out, its the old balancing act of applying pressure to certain pistons to get the others to come out evenly etc..... but by the sounds of it you only need to replace the pads and the disks.
Hope that helps anyway, but I would certainly recommend David Silver, I've bought a lot of stuff from them now including parts for my fairings.
Cheers,
Kev.
I'm afraid I can't speak from much experience with the CBR, but having had ferodo pads put on by the local bike shop, and having the EBC sintered pads fitted now, the EBC pads certainly get my vote.
I'm sure other more experienced owners of this bike can give better advice tho.
I certainly like the quality and feel of the brakes now compared to what it was like when I purchased the bike.
Regards,
Kev.
I'm sure other more experienced owners of this bike can give better advice tho.
I certainly like the quality and feel of the brakes now compared to what it was like when I purchased the bike.
Regards,
Kev.
Since my front brakes now had started to scream everytime I brake I had to do something.
I took the front brakes apart and I noticed that the bottom piston on both sides where stuck (almost) and that the pads where unevenly worn (less on the bottom side)
After cleaning it all and putting it back together it works!!
It´s not perfect but that´s probably the the pads.
When working with the brakes I had "dad´s" advice in my head to be careful with the discs. The pistons should not be pressed while the calipers are mounted on the bike.
It´s much easier to press them all the way in for example with a small clamp when the mounting brackets are removed.
Edit: grammatics??
I took the front brakes apart and I noticed that the bottom piston on both sides where stuck (almost) and that the pads where unevenly worn (less on the bottom side)
After cleaning it all and putting it back together it works!!
It´s not perfect but that´s probably the the pads.
When working with the brakes I had "dad´s" advice in my head to be careful with the discs. The pistons should not be pressed while the calipers are mounted on the bike.
It´s much easier to press them all the way in for example with a small clamp when the mounting brackets are removed.
Edit: grammatics??


