There are no brushes - it's a 'brushless alternator'
The field coils are in the stator cover - around the edge is one set and in the centre, another.
My centre one had burnt, but you couldn't see it just by looking at it.
If you're struggling, take the test chart and the stator cover to an auto electrical shop - they'll be able to check it in seconds and probably at no cost.

 

I can't load the Electrex site.

I'm just a little confused by the terminology. Is the generator, alternator, stator all the same?

So after I take the cap off there are copper wires along the edges, and then a coil of them in the middle.

Am supposed to test the continuity between the two copper rings?

 

 

Cars have generators and alternators, bikes have stators, but sometimes the three terms get used for the same thing - I see you managed to remove the beastie safely !
There are resistance values in Ohms in the test procedure. That's what you're testing, as well as continuity of the wiring, if memory serves....You can only test output in volts with the stator fitted and the bike running.

 

The fault finding flowchart says to measure the restistance in the two copper slip rings on the rotor.

When I set my multimeter to the lowest setting I don't get any readings at all between the copper

 

I did the test for the stator.

I set my multimeter to 20V AC



And I got the harness coming from my stator cover with 3 yellow wires



I tested them and I got 19, 18 and 14. And when I tested them to ground I got 18, 7.54, 7.45.

I don't know if its from a bad stator or grounds? Possibly both.


Do I need a new cover or does the stator come out of the cover for replacement?

 

it might be the battery is the problem...

 

Stator cols are not designed to be removable, although Kaska and I have both done it. I'd suggest www.mrcycles.com for a new stator cover, but do all the checks before you fork out $214 + postage......[X(]