Hi to all
I recently bought a 1990 CBR 1000F and would like to know exactly how much bhp does she have?
Researching the net brought answers that range from 100-bhp through 111 to 136-bhp which figure is right?
Ride safe

 

This is from a book that I have.

[IMG]local://upfiles/8473/668E78622E9245CB83C9A0B1DBC70EEB.jpg[/IMG]

 

The 135 number I've always related to being crank HP, while other places have listed around 100 wheel HP

 

When Cycle (RIP) tested it in 1991, they got 105.9 on the dyno.

 

Tx guys
one thing us certain the beast is powerful
Ride safe

 

The bike was restricted to 100 hp on some markets and delivered 135 hp (on crank) on non-restricted markets. The restriction, in case it is still there, is simple to remove by changing intake rubbers or carve them up to full diameter. The rear wheel hp should be around 12 % to 15 % below crank power, i.e. about 115 to 118 rwhp on full power bikes. By adding a better flowing exhaust system, the rwhp can go up to almost 130 hp, which is impressive by any measures.

 

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The bike was restricted to 100 hp on some markets and delivered 135 hp (on crank) on non-restricted markets. The restriction, in case it is still there, is simple to remove by changing intake rubbers or carve them up to full diameter. The rear wheel hp should be around 12 % to 15 % below crank power, i.e. about 115 to 118 rwhp on full power bikes. By adding a better flowing exhaust system, the rwhp can go up to almost 130 hp, which is impressive by any measures.
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That reminds me, here in the states, the California bikes had emissions and lesser HP.

 

Timbuctwo, your right! Isn't that why they have the different letters at the end of the model/vin? When sitting on the bike, there's a model sticker on the left innner side of the frame near the battery box that has the model followed by and ending letter such as CBR1000F-R, or J, or L, etc...

R1000, can you give more detail about you stating that the inner diameter of the carb boot can be carved out? I have looked through the haynes service manual and could not get a specific illustration showing the carb intake boots. I could take them off to inspect, but thought you might be willing to go into more detail of the process. I have a bunch of questions like, what it the thickness of the carb boot, how much do you carve out, what method do you use, can you use a dremmel (rotary tool with appropriate grit paper), would rifleing (spelling?) or smooth bore be a variable?

As long as any modifications one does to their bike, would the percent increase that each component offers, now grow, somewhat, exponentially?

 

I have three letters for you all that don't think there is enough ponies.....













































NOS [sm=groupwave.gif]

 

R1000 I also am interested in more details about the intake rubbers if you are able to get off the new 'Bird', thanks