Best Gearing For Highway Use
#1
Best Gearing For Highway Use
All,
Just finished rebuilding the front end of my project bike, it is now time to turn my attention to the rear.
New chain and sprockets are on my list but i would like to drop the rpm's at highway speed, what's recommended?
Will a 18t counter make much difference and will it fit?
Thanks in advance
Aussie Johnno
Just finished rebuilding the front end of my project bike, it is now time to turn my attention to the rear.
New chain and sprockets are on my list but i would like to drop the rpm's at highway speed, what's recommended?
Will a 18t counter make much difference and will it fit?
Thanks in advance
Aussie Johnno
#2
#3
#4
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Yer ...definitely leave the front alone Johnno..
Personally I would go down 3 teeth on the rear mate ...these old girls have the torque to take it without a problem .... you will prolly still only just notice it ...
I have not changed mine on the CBR ....but from experience on my VF1000, 3 teeth only dropped the revs by around the 500rpm mark...
Personally I would go down 3 teeth on the rear mate ...these old girls have the torque to take it without a problem .... you will prolly still only just notice it ...
I have not changed mine on the CBR ....but from experience on my VF1000, 3 teeth only dropped the revs by around the 500rpm mark...
#5
You can do the math to find out what the % change would be.
Compare the stock ratio to the modified ratio - and then compare those fractions. It will give you a percent. A 10% change (FOR EXAMPLE) means that at 5000 rpm you'd be 500 rpm lower rpm than before.
Also note that Honda generally knew what they were doing - the question was, what was honda doing?
Compare the stock ratio to the modified ratio - and then compare those fractions. It will give you a percent. A 10% change (FOR EXAMPLE) means that at 5000 rpm you'd be 500 rpm lower rpm than before.
Also note that Honda generally knew what they were doing - the question was, what was honda doing?
#7
We used to have a chart and everything for that calc, woot. Can't remember where it went, though...
Edit: Here's the ratio chart. Don't have a calc chart, but maybe I'll make one?
Edit: Here's the ratio chart. Don't have a calc chart, but maybe I'll make one?
Last edited by kilgoretrout; 10-04-2009 at 06:00 PM.
#8
I have an excel spreadsheet that I made.
Old_f = 16
Old_r = 46
New_f = 15
New_r = 48
(aka -1,+2)
OLD_ratio = Old_F / Old_R = 0.347826087
New_ratio = New_F / New_R = 0.3125
Change_Ratio = New_Ratio / Old_Ratio = 0.8984375
or the new ratio is 89.8% as tall, OR
Change_Ratio -1 = -0.1015625
Which means - 10.1% shorter (shorter because it is negative in this case)
For your bike the change will be a positive %, or Taller
#10
It's funny, every big streetbike I've ever had I wanted taller gearing for hwy riding...except this one. I find the stock gearing to be perfect. The motor (on my bike anyway) has a few RPM zones that are pretty buzzy, but it smooths right out at an indicated 82 indicated (75 in reality), up to about 88 indicated. I like to cruise in this speed zone because it minimizes tickets but I still feel like I'm getting somewhere; probably because even though I know it's wrong, seeing 85 on the speedo feels like progress
I do understand that some peeps like to cruise faster than that, so in that case, I think 2 teeth will serve you well. Beyond that you're gonna be shifting a lot more. I love this bike...one of my favorites ever, and it does many things well including decent midrange torque...doesn't have much bottom for a liter bike though.
I do understand that some peeps like to cruise faster than that, so in that case, I think 2 teeth will serve you well. Beyond that you're gonna be shifting a lot more. I love this bike...one of my favorites ever, and it does many things well including decent midrange torque...doesn't have much bottom for a liter bike though.