'88 rear end lift
#1
'88 rear end lift
I commented on a thread about tyre sizes recently and mentioned that I was in the midst of changing the rim from a 3.5J to the SC24 5.5J and adding a Metzeler 180 profile tyre.
I also did a 17mm shortening of the dog bone to give the rear end a lift - this sits well with the nip and tuck on the side rear fairings IMO (Kawa12zr rear LED light)
This 17mm has made a dramatic change to the handling - much more stable a low speed.
Up to 160km/h it all feels pretty solid (shakedown)- the rear wheel probably planting the '88 more securely. That's an understatement...
I didn't think to measure the seat height prior to doing the mod, and as I had already rebuilt the seat to give an extra inch in height it seems pointless for comparisons if you're interested. All I can say is the centre of the rear seat lock is 34 and a quarter inches off ground level with the bike being held upright unloaded....
Incidentally if you are using the sprocket carrier from the '88 you will need to trim 5mm from the innerside of the spacer between the cover and the cush rubbers - if you do this neatly you can use it as a spacer for the axle between the bearing on the brake disc side of the rim and the brake caliper holder.
Also; the torque arm securing the brake caliper holder to the swingarm will need 'profiling' (I bent it) round the tyre.
and if you drill the new hole for the bolt in the dogbone you should really reinforce the dogbone -it's a pretty mild steel affair and doesn't look up to the job after you've drilled it.
I also did a 17mm shortening of the dog bone to give the rear end a lift - this sits well with the nip and tuck on the side rear fairings IMO (Kawa12zr rear LED light)
This 17mm has made a dramatic change to the handling - much more stable a low speed.
Up to 160km/h it all feels pretty solid (shakedown)- the rear wheel probably planting the '88 more securely. That's an understatement...
I didn't think to measure the seat height prior to doing the mod, and as I had already rebuilt the seat to give an extra inch in height it seems pointless for comparisons if you're interested. All I can say is the centre of the rear seat lock is 34 and a quarter inches off ground level with the bike being held upright unloaded....
Incidentally if you are using the sprocket carrier from the '88 you will need to trim 5mm from the innerside of the spacer between the cover and the cush rubbers - if you do this neatly you can use it as a spacer for the axle between the bearing on the brake disc side of the rim and the brake caliper holder.
Also; the torque arm securing the brake caliper holder to the swingarm will need 'profiling' (I bent it) round the tyre.
and if you drill the new hole for the bolt in the dogbone you should really reinforce the dogbone -it's a pretty mild steel affair and doesn't look up to the job after you've drilled it.
#2
#3
Yep can do - with keeping the original chain guard and the torque cover but removing the mudguard part of the rear hugger there is 5mm clearance on each side - I couldn't get a 190 section tyre in there. Without the chainguard or the torque cover there is 10mm clearance each side.
Here's another pic;
Here's another pic;
Last edited by BaronIsle; 03-22-2012 at 03:08 PM.
#4
Very cool i am gonna write all this down. Next time i meed tires i will probably go that route.
I didn't look at the type of tire you are running but is it radial? And if so is there anything odd in the handling?
I almost did a radial swap last year but everyone said no.
Wondered if this would open a possibility to running a stickier tire as well as wider.
Thanks again.
I didn't look at the type of tire you are running but is it radial? And if so is there anything odd in the handling?
I almost did a radial swap last year but everyone said no.
Wondered if this would open a possibility to running a stickier tire as well as wider.
Thanks again.
#5
The original tyres as per specifications stuck on the cbr include metzeler tyres.
The front is a 120/70/ZR17 58W and the rear is now a metzeler 180/55/ZR17 RoadTECZ6. Both are radials.
I run both at 42psi -2.9bar as per specs (single rider over 90kg should be running 42 front & rear, 36psi front if under 90kg apparently)
I only completed the conversion a couple of days ago, 4hrs riding time. It's all good so far.
The front is a 120/70/ZR17 58W and the rear is now a metzeler 180/55/ZR17 RoadTECZ6. Both are radials.
I run both at 42psi -2.9bar as per specs (single rider over 90kg should be running 42 front & rear, 36psi front if under 90kg apparently)
I only completed the conversion a couple of days ago, 4hrs riding time. It's all good so far.
#6
Good wheel swap but i would be careful with the rear lift , playing with the dog bone might weaken it, i have the wheels of third gen myself and I run 180 in the back and 120 up front, i prefer Avon ultra storm st2 , they make the bike lielier and geive good wera and traction.
So far no problem myselfd and i ovet it, for the fender under the seat you can retrofil and ineer fender from a 92-2000, it takes aout 20 minutes and indy and i went that route, for the chain gard a 92-2000 will do a the job, if you want to get rid of the speedo cable, a clucth cover and a speedo cable from a second or third gen will fit bolt on and give the same accuracy as later model.
Also if you want to change the front fender cbr93 and up will fit as well as vrf second gen fender, if you want one like Indy you have to play with it a bit.
Done this 3 years ago and no problem.
So far no problem myselfd and i ovet it, for the fender under the seat you can retrofil and ineer fender from a 92-2000, it takes aout 20 minutes and indy and i went that route, for the chain gard a 92-2000 will do a the job, if you want to get rid of the speedo cable, a clucth cover and a speedo cable from a second or third gen will fit bolt on and give the same accuracy as later model.
Also if you want to change the front fender cbr93 and up will fit as well as vrf second gen fender, if you want one like Indy you have to play with it a bit.
Done this 3 years ago and no problem.
#7
yep - if you do the mod on the dogbone you will have to strengthen it.
I bolted a 'c' section 1inch mild steel plate from the original hole via the new hole to a third I drilled near the dog/swing arm pivot point.
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