I'm not quite finished with this yet until the new parts arrive and I can compare the old parts with the new. This is going to be an important part of the story to assess wear at 60K miles (96,560 Km). The micrometer will be earning it's keep.
It would also be a good thing if it's to be a how to to rewrite it in a more usable format. I'll do that but this thread was really just intended to get some info out now for anyone who may be wanting to know what it really looks like inside the Cane lump right now.
It'll be two weeks before the rebuild starts to get your requests in if you need any specific pictures.
The 'how to rebuild the bottom end of a cane' will be comprehensive and dripping with pictures.
Apart from the fact that I enjoy doing this kind of thing it seems only fair to put back into this forum at least some of what I've got out of it.
Thanks guys, this forum really makes a big difference.

 

what were the symtoms before strip down , because i have a whiney noise when in low gears down the box is this the fix for my problem ??

 

Henry, did you do a full tear down (split cases) or just pull the pan to do the balancer?

 

I've got the engine completely apart. Alternator tensioner replacement required that so I'm going to replace chains etc but the balancer rubbers have always been part of the plan too. The balancer will definitely come out by just removing the pan though if you need to get to it.
Having adjusted the balancer while she was still running there was never a problem with it as such.
Carl, try the adjustment as per the manuals instruction except that after the initial adjustment you are better off fine tuning it with the engine warmed up and running at tick over.
Check the archived posts on the subject, it could be the cause of your whining.

 

Henry, I'm a little confused (at work right now so that could explain a lot). To do the alternator chain, and you need to split the cases (assuming, to remove the crank) but the manual (93-96) says that you need to remove the head and cylinder to access a couple of bolts that also hold the cases together. Did you have to do this or was the manual full of ****?

 

No way mate.
My head is still on and the only head bolts that have needed to come undone are the ones that hold the CCT oiler plate in place. As I have the luxury of being able to change the cam chain without taking a pin out it seemed the best course of action but nope.... the head does not have to be taken off.
Are you thinking about doing this job Malbo?

 

I've already done the cam chain and tensioner earlier this year (split chain method), but was thinking of replacing the rubber in the balancer shaft and replace the alternator chain and tension while I'm in there.

All I need to do now is to find a company that makes a high output alternator

 

Hmmm... interesting. What are you thinking of hooking up that you need the extra oomph for then? Are you going to go for the heated jacket? Trout has recently bought one of these. He didn't say whether he's had to upgrade the alternator.
I'd be interested to know if you can find someone who upgrades the output.
I'm also going to work out a way to remove the alternator shaft after the engine is re-assembled to ensure maintenance is a possibility without having to fight a properly working tensioner.
When the new tensioner arrives I'll post up some pictures of the thing for reference before it disappears into the engine.

 

Easy mistake!

The cog has been carbonized, surface hardened or case hardened (however you want to say it).

To case harden a low carbon steel you pack it with a high carbon source and heat it so that carbon will migrate into the low carbon steel. The longer you heat it the more carbon will migrate. You can control the amount of penetration with time. In other words, you get more concentrated surface carbon and a harder face with decreasing carbon content the deeper into the low carbon subject in a shorter time. Most gears are carbonized this way as so the surfaces is hard to resist wear but the teeth are not so hard and brittle that they break.

When you finish carbonizing the subject you need to quench it. As the surface is of a difference carbon content it would crack under rapid quenching in water, so it is quenched in oil. This oil stains the subject leaving it black.

Jeeze....You had me going there for a while. If it were really plastic, I would have been pulling my bike apart to inspect it. Thanks for the update.LOL

 

Thanks TBT. As a former engineering student I should have realised that too but the colour and feel of it was so... er.... plastic that I never thought twice about it until it fell on the bench.
Nice explanation of case hardening. Cheers.
I'm still dying to know why Malbojah wants a bigger alternator.