Edited see next

 

Maybe this?

Aka,...read the f****ing owner's manual...

I'm just guessing here based on a few rudimentary suggestions.

1. Raise the spring pre-load to give initial taughtness a head start to any bumps. Turn clockwise for firmer initial starting point.
Not to the turn in, but to the overall travel distance of the shock under high speeds and hard braking.

This should slow down that falling into the corner feeling.

2. Harden the rebound damping...again clockwise...untl it soaks up the bumps but also has enough give to let the suspension
sag and compress the tire for grip. "Tire squash and spread". Aka, enough rubber to tarmac footprint to still grip,
and not so stiff as to push the tire past it's grip points/envelope.

3. The dive on corner entrance under braking, aka the compression damping, fine as is.

But...

Might need some adjusting after I adjust the other things.

One thing affects another.

4. Match the rear pre-load to front by bouncing the bike centrally...

Both ends, fornt forks and rear spring should move about the same distance and with the same progression.

5. Set ride height.

Can this be done on a stock 2004 RR?

It's not the same as static sag is it?

 

If your doing mostly trackdays get the suspension set up by a professional suspension expert, there is a lot more to getting the right suspension setup and its important to have an expert with a lot of experience. Its likely your going to need some actual suspension work before you'll get the results you want from turning ****. Setting the sag yourself is a good starting point but its just the beginning.

For track use your going to need the right springs and valving for the forks and if your going to do a lot of track riding you might as well get an aftermarket shock, again with the right spring/valving for your weight (Ohlins is badass, Penske does the same thing but isn't quite as refined.


obviously make sure the brakes and tires are good (quality and wear), a steering damper is a good thing to have (and required if you ever get into racing). PC3 USB, rearsets, 520 conversion, and a DB windscreen (clear of course) are nice things to have on the track. Hard case covers, Pro-Tek Spool/Slidersand frame sliders for crash protection. Beyond that kinda stuff I'd suggest saving some $$$ to do as many trackdays as you can.

Exhausts sound cool and give you more power but for trackdays they aren't a priority modification imo. I still have a slip-on for my F4i after a few years of being track only lol. If you want "performance" modifications, I'd say stick with handling or maybe weight reduction (benefits both handling and acceleration)


oh btw if you want a 520 conversion and a set of Vortex frame sliders shoot me a pm, I've got a -1/+2 520 sprockets and chain and a set of Vortex frame sliders I need to get rid of(brand new, never installed)

 

What makes these aftermarket shocks, valves, springs, dampers etc. better?

The fine-tune-ability?

The consistency and reliability of the inner parts? More selection in what size springs, oil or gas holes you can use?

As far as setting something up, sure a pro the first time, or first few hundred but I want to watch, and learn then do it myself.
[i]
And yeah, track days with Ridesmart most likely, and a few with one or two new ones that seem interesting.
Eventually, I would like to try racing. Just ametuer, and that's maybe 2-4 years down the road.
And may not be in the 600 Supersport class, as I don't need the next wannabe Spies, all of 15 running rings around my ***.

I out some Galfer sintered pads on my old F2, and did not care for them. The brakes became spongy...10 seconds after installing just new pads.

EBC...right? I had a set on my ZX. And sueed them for MX back in the 79's early 80's I think.

Power Commander 3 USB? Okay it will be internet download compatible, or maybe use a software based tool....yeah yeah.
(How it works I can look up...is it worth it is what I am needing to know)


How much fine tuning can this do as far as throttle opening % to fuel delivery on this part of this track?

Is really precise, or are they more like switch on switch off things.

I've had a fuel injected bike for lessee 6...days now. So...it's a world away from needles, jets, venturi's, and the rest.

Dude, you are too cool.

The chain on this 04 is actually kinda rusty. Actually really rusty...neglected.

If I'd seen that in the daylight, I'd have taken $100 off the price....or at least made them include some stomp grip and a cheap wheel stand for changing my own tires.

Anyway, too late now.

Bodywork is almost perfect...except for a smudge and drop of touch up paint here and there.
Like where people rub against the tank.

(PM sent in 5, 4, 3, 2, )

Then I have a coupla' more questions...

 

i see that alot of people say you need to get a pc when you get a slip on why is that? i just got a slip on a few weeks ago.. dont have a pc tho..

 

Basically, I THINK to get anything out of that slip-on, you need to adjust the air/fuek mix, in your FI usinga PC.

I've rouded down a few of my buys.

1. The stuff Woody is oing to ship my way for a more than fair price.

Vortex 520 conversion...F and R sprockets, 520 size, rer is black hardcoated variety so holds up a little longer.

2. Frame sliders and pucks...vortex...

3. Jardine?

Do I want a Jardine.

The caron slip-ons look ok.

But the whole aluminum finish, with that ghastly turn signal rinbg thing.

Looks ike ****.

Ackrpovic's are 1/4 what my whole bike costs...f**k that.

Recommends.

I don't care about gaining a gazillion VBHP...

The exhaust is mostly and aesthetic piece.

AESTHETICS REFER TO HOW GOOD OR BAD SOMETHING LOOKS.

iF SOMETHING DOES NOT LOOK GOOD, PRETTY FAST, ETC.

yOU ARE AUTOMATICALLY NOT GOING TO WANT TO GET ON AND RIDE IT.

S U G G E S T I O N S

 

SEAT COWL...WHICH i AM ABIOUT TO ORDER NOW...MATTER OF FACT.


--

 

the PC3 can smooth things out a little bit, I don't remember if the RR was as bad about it but most bikes have a rough on/off throttle transition especially when your revs are up (corner exits or maintenance throttle through the corner). The PC3 makes the transition a little more smooth. It'll also give you a (usually) slightly better fuel map with just a downloaded map (although for the full benefit you need to havea custom map made because every bike is slightly different)

My F4i used to be really bad when you first get on the throttle coming out of a corner, that first touch would be a jump in acceleration instead of a smooth gradual application that you want

here is what the PC software looks like:

the numbers are for adjusting the fueling so that you can get the right A/F ratio for each RPM @ each throttle position. You need a trained dyno tech and some good dyno tuning time to get the best map for your bike but you can play with different downloaded maps to find something fairly close, at least enough to be an improvement over stock

 

The guys I bought my bike from were saying that just today.

That the PC3 really just smooths out the power you already have.

I gotta say I'm more sold on getting my suspension set up and drivetrain first, more than I am about drooling over a non-magical box
that might add a handful of horsepower.

Also, my braking and throttle hands are pretty good, to be honest...don't think I need a smoother just yet.

Maybe if I get to a point of running laps within 1 billionths over and over.

The guys at Nor did recommed a pipe based on what I told them I wanted.

They suggested Akropovic, bur 2 grand is too much for a pipe....for me.

They then said no to a Jardine....and said I might try an M4.

I also put on some brand new Michelin Power Pilots today.

What junk...

I mean,not bad, but not as good as the race take offs you sent me, and not as good street wise as Avon Viper's.

They lack alot of incremental feedback.

One second you are stuck like glue, the next you are coming unglued.

I won't get PP's or a Michelin tire again.

 

Sorry, didn't read the whole thread, but wouldn't a front suspension swap with an 05-06 model help dramatically? With the inverted forks and all?

But BMG, if you REALLY want to improve performance, take those superbike classes I've been raving about. You can take levels 1, 2, 3 and 4, all at Laguna Seca if you want, AND STILL be way under the price you mentioned.

EDIT:

Just read your above post, and remembered what an instructor at my superbike class mentioned. They do extensively tune the suspension on their bikes, but they said that the skills they were teaching me maximizes traction to their greatest ability.

So, when I got back from the class, my POS Qualifiers (the EXACT same tires they had on their bikes at the school) now magically stuck incredibly well compared to before I took the class. Before the class, I thought these tires were mostly cheap and didn't provide much traction. After the class, it's hard to me to break them loose. So, another +1 to the superbike school. (I should be their spokesperson.)