f4i to RR swingarm
#1
f4i to RR swingarm
I have been doing some research and I have found that a common mod is to swap out the stock swingarm for that of a RR. I have some questions pertaining to this mod.
1) What are the main benefits of doing so
2) Due to the longer swing arm will the bike sit lower
3) As someone who has not an expert mechanic by a longshot how hard is this mod going to be to complete
1) What are the main benefits of doing so
2) Due to the longer swing arm will the bike sit lower
3) As someone who has not an expert mechanic by a longshot how hard is this mod going to be to complete
#2
1) Looks only, with some strength benefits that will never really affect your riding.
2) No.
3) I don't know the exact details, so I can't say what parts are all needed. But you'll need to be able to suspend the bike to remove the swing arm and rear shock. Also I believe some parts (like bushings) need to be machined to accept the swing arm on the frame and the wheel to the swing arm. Do a search, you'll find a couple tutorials about it.
2) No.
3) I don't know the exact details, so I can't say what parts are all needed. But you'll need to be able to suspend the bike to remove the swing arm and rear shock. Also I believe some parts (like bushings) need to be machined to accept the swing arm on the frame and the wheel to the swing arm. Do a search, you'll find a couple tutorials about it.
#4
They will whine but here is the best write up on the subject
http://cbrworld.net/forums/2/252603/ShowThread.aspx
http://cbrworld.net/forums/2/252603/ShowThread.aspx
#5
that write is what I went by I do think. No spacers/bushings needed on the swingarm mount side, to use the F4/i wheel you will need to make bushings for the axle and the can be made with steel tubing, but alum will be easier to work with as you will have to machine or sand the id n od of the tubing down to fit in the swingarm and so the axle will slide thru. Like whats been said you will need a 04 - 05 1kRR shock, and you will need a longer chain (new sprockets are recommended too). You may need the rear brake line off a rr too but some have gotten the ff4/i one to work.
Complete list of parts I used:
04 - 05 rr swingarm, caliper bracket, huggger, chain guard, and possibly brakeline.
05 1000RR shock.
steel tubing.
6" bolt with nylon lock nut. (this needs to be a high grade bolt as alot of stress will be put on it)
new chain and sprockets.
1 afternoon.
You can make the spanner socket you will need out of a 1 7/8" socket.
I suspended my bike from the rafters with 2 racket straps.
I have had mine on for a year now, I havent had any ill effects from the extra 1" in length. It handles as good if not better than with the stock, and the looks are killer in comparison.
Complete list of parts I used:
04 - 05 rr swingarm, caliper bracket, huggger, chain guard, and possibly brakeline.
05 1000RR shock.
steel tubing.
6" bolt with nylon lock nut. (this needs to be a high grade bolt as alot of stress will be put on it)
new chain and sprockets.
1 afternoon.
You can make the spanner socket you will need out of a 1 7/8" socket.
I suspended my bike from the rafters with 2 racket straps.
I have had mine on for a year now, I havent had any ill effects from the extra 1" in length. It handles as good if not better than with the stock, and the looks are killer in comparison.
#7
Check out this craigslist ad for an F4i w/ RR swingarm. Don't know how long the ad will be available but here it is... http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/1228653685.html
Posting infor & pics from ad for when the ad expires...
"what all went into the swingarm swap?
There are a few tutorial posts on this forum(www.cbrforum.com) and another(www.cbrworld.com) with really good step by step info. I did a few things different tho. The wheel axle bushings that need to be made are typically made from mild steel. I made mine from 6160-T6 aircraft aluminum, it has a higher yield strength than mild steel and there is no threat of galling inside the aluminum swingarm axle slots due to using dissimilar metals and you don't have to worry about the 6160-T6 rusting, like you would with mild steel. I bought the Honda tool to loosen the swingarm castle nut, typically people make their own by grinding down an old large socket and this chews up the castle nut, the Honda tool makes for a clean install. I also had a buddy machine down the wheel spacer bushing instead of attacking it with a bench grinder myself. I used a washer of the same thickness as what was removed on the axle, this means more accurate rear wheel location on the axle for better front-rear alignment. Typically the bushing is hand ground on a grinder and people throw in any washer that'll fit to make up the difference. Little things that make the swap a bit more 'factory' and a little less 'shade tree mechanic'. Either way can work, but I'm just a bit **** about things like that."
Posting infor & pics from ad for when the ad expires...
"what all went into the swingarm swap?
There are a few tutorial posts on this forum(www.cbrforum.com) and another(www.cbrworld.com) with really good step by step info. I did a few things different tho. The wheel axle bushings that need to be made are typically made from mild steel. I made mine from 6160-T6 aircraft aluminum, it has a higher yield strength than mild steel and there is no threat of galling inside the aluminum swingarm axle slots due to using dissimilar metals and you don't have to worry about the 6160-T6 rusting, like you would with mild steel. I bought the Honda tool to loosen the swingarm castle nut, typically people make their own by grinding down an old large socket and this chews up the castle nut, the Honda tool makes for a clean install. I also had a buddy machine down the wheel spacer bushing instead of attacking it with a bench grinder myself. I used a washer of the same thickness as what was removed on the axle, this means more accurate rear wheel location on the axle for better front-rear alignment. Typically the bushing is hand ground on a grinder and people throw in any washer that'll fit to make up the difference. Little things that make the swap a bit more 'factory' and a little less 'shade tree mechanic'. Either way can work, but I'm just a bit **** about things like that."
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