flapper mod harmfull
ORIGINAL: tnbracn2
How do you perform the PAIR and flapper mod? And is there any other similar mods that can be done?
How do you perform the PAIR and flapper mod? And is there any other similar mods that can be done?
let me make it easy
go to 1000RR.net
there is a sticky on removing the intake. follow that until you get the entire air intake off the bike
then you will see the pair on the head.
flapper, go to hooliganbiketech.net
there is a how to with pics on how to disable it
there are literally hundreds of posts and pictures on this site and 1000rr.net on how to do both of these.
(i think 1000rr even has a movie posted on how to do the flapper)
Nolong term damage would result of this.
The flapper has a continuously variable position. It is not limited to either full open or full closed. Under open throttle conditions, when vacuum lessens to at or near atmospheric pressure, the flap willgradually open the middle door and consequentlygradually close the outer doors. By removing the vacuum line from the flapper, you are tricking it into reading full atmospheric pressure, or a WOT condition, wich in turnputs the flapper in the full open position. Above 5500 RPM, the electronic portion of the flapper holds the flapper open until the RPM's fall below 5500 again. So in theory, the flapper could very well be full open at less than 5500 RPM if indeed the WOT condition created a vacuum pressure of zero, the equivalent of atmospheric pressure. Because atmospheric pressure is hard to obtain in a correctly functioning intake system and there is always at least a little bit of vacuum, the flapper in it's original state would never reach a full openposition even under full throttle conditions unless the ram air system was supplying enough air to eliminate any vacuum from the intake.
So, in the lower gears when airspeed does not provide enough ram air, and theoretically you are driving around town, the flapper maintains a position which reduces intake noise by bypassing the larger, ram air portion of the intake. In an effort to make this effective, the outside flaps pull air from inside the fairings which is considerably hotter than the air coming from the center flap. The performance gain from tricking the flap into staying open is not entirely based on the added airflow. Because the airflow is not considerably, if at all, restricted by the smaller openings at such low RPMs, more of the performance gain can be attributed to the intake air coming in at ambient temperature as opposed to drawn from inside the fairings.
We have all seen dyno sheets of the same bike tested at 100 degrees and then again at 50 degrees. There is a correction factor for dynos that equates one to the other because of the known power loss associated with high ambient air temperatures. If you measured the intake air with the outer flaps open and applied the proper correction factor, your power wouldbe very close toequal to that of a run with the outer flaps closed in the same conditions.
Which brings us to the conclusion. If your bike's A/F mix is tuned so tightly that you have to change your map when the temperature changes, then yes, you could cause long term damage by running lean in cooler air. Since the only people that really need to take ambient air temperature readings before determining the fuel map for the day are drag racers that have nothing even remotely close to a factory intake, the answer is no, you do not have to worry about any damage to the motor by tricking the flapper into an open condition.
Be sure to properly cap that vacuum hose though, because that could cause far more problems than the open flap ever could. LOL.
Oh and by the way, the PAIR mod is simply taking the passenger off of the back. You will be much faster without a PAIR of you on the bike.
HAHA. Sorry, had to say it.
The flapper has a continuously variable position. It is not limited to either full open or full closed. Under open throttle conditions, when vacuum lessens to at or near atmospheric pressure, the flap willgradually open the middle door and consequentlygradually close the outer doors. By removing the vacuum line from the flapper, you are tricking it into reading full atmospheric pressure, or a WOT condition, wich in turnputs the flapper in the full open position. Above 5500 RPM, the electronic portion of the flapper holds the flapper open until the RPM's fall below 5500 again. So in theory, the flapper could very well be full open at less than 5500 RPM if indeed the WOT condition created a vacuum pressure of zero, the equivalent of atmospheric pressure. Because atmospheric pressure is hard to obtain in a correctly functioning intake system and there is always at least a little bit of vacuum, the flapper in it's original state would never reach a full openposition even under full throttle conditions unless the ram air system was supplying enough air to eliminate any vacuum from the intake.
So, in the lower gears when airspeed does not provide enough ram air, and theoretically you are driving around town, the flapper maintains a position which reduces intake noise by bypassing the larger, ram air portion of the intake. In an effort to make this effective, the outside flaps pull air from inside the fairings which is considerably hotter than the air coming from the center flap. The performance gain from tricking the flap into staying open is not entirely based on the added airflow. Because the airflow is not considerably, if at all, restricted by the smaller openings at such low RPMs, more of the performance gain can be attributed to the intake air coming in at ambient temperature as opposed to drawn from inside the fairings.
We have all seen dyno sheets of the same bike tested at 100 degrees and then again at 50 degrees. There is a correction factor for dynos that equates one to the other because of the known power loss associated with high ambient air temperatures. If you measured the intake air with the outer flaps open and applied the proper correction factor, your power wouldbe very close toequal to that of a run with the outer flaps closed in the same conditions.
Which brings us to the conclusion. If your bike's A/F mix is tuned so tightly that you have to change your map when the temperature changes, then yes, you could cause long term damage by running lean in cooler air. Since the only people that really need to take ambient air temperature readings before determining the fuel map for the day are drag racers that have nothing even remotely close to a factory intake, the answer is no, you do not have to worry about any damage to the motor by tricking the flapper into an open condition.
Be sure to properly cap that vacuum hose though, because that could cause far more problems than the open flap ever could. LOL.
Oh and by the way, the PAIR mod is simply taking the passenger off of the back. You will be much faster without a PAIR of you on the bike.
HAHA. Sorry, had to say it.
I don't know if it's harmful or not, but I did both the pair and flapper mod quite some time ago and didn't notice one bit of difference. It has since been put back as it was.
I thought it would help with the "sluggishness" (a relative term) of take off from idle to 2500 rpm, but I couldn't tell any difference. I'm thinking that the engine just doesn't build noticable power until it hits the 2500 rpm mark, then again at 7000 when it really turns on.
I thought it would help with the "sluggishness" (a relative term) of take off from idle to 2500 rpm, but I couldn't tell any difference. I'm thinking that the engine just doesn't build noticable power until it hits the 2500 rpm mark, then again at 7000 when it really turns on.
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but yea.. you'd probably notice a slightdifference though if you looked into a custom map after that. But you'll be fine without it.

