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Valve Adjustment Guide

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Old Jan 16, 2022 | 03:50 PM
  #21  
ProoN's Avatar
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Can anyone tell me what the valve clearance specs (both intake and exhaust) are for a 2007 600rr? I see tons of videos and how-to instructions but nothing about what the specs actually are. Thanks much!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2022 | 01:59 PM
  #22  
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Intake in millimeters.
0.20 +- 0.03 mm

Exhaust in millimeters
0.28 +- 0.03 mm

Make sure the engine temp is below 95 degrees F.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2022 | 06:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by IDoDirt
Intake in millimeters.
0.20 +- 0.03 mm

Exhaust in millimeters
0.28 +- 0.03 mm

Make sure the engine temp is below 95 degrees F.
Definitely not doing a valve check with a hot engine.. hah. Kudos though!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2022 | 07:12 PM
  #24  
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Follow up -- going to attempt this tomorrow finally. Been watching tons of videos online and have a pretty good idea of what to expect.

Couple questions though, just kinda double checking/re-affirming. Are the torque values only.. 9lbs for the cam holders/bearings? (20 of them.) That seems kind of low. The manual doesn't show an actual pattern to tighten them in (that I can find anyway) -- does that mean any criss-cross pattern will work? I may be overthinking a lot of this but again, first time doing this.

Also, I've replaced my clutch a few times and have a tube of this gasket maker/sealing stuff used on the clutch cover. The manual says to use it on the half-moon portions of the valve gasket/cover area though would it hurt if I used it on the entire thing? Like, both sides of the gasket? Kudos in advance!

-D
 
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Old Feb 6, 2022 | 12:26 PM
  #25  
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Tightening the Cam Holder in any pattern that makes the cover go on in a level manor is fine. Some portion of the camshaft is gong to be compressing the valve springs while other areas will not. This causes uneven tension on the cover. Working it down slowly and evenly will help prevent it from breaking. As for the gasket sealer, I'd only use it in the indicated areas. The gasket seals well, but that joint needs a little help to ensure leak free operation. With any luck, you won't have to replace any shims.

Good luck and take your time.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2022 | 04:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ProoN
Follow up -- going to attempt this tomorrow finally. Been watching tons of videos online and have a pretty good idea of what to expect.

Couple questions though, just kinda double checking/re-affirming. Are the torque values only.. 9lbs for the cam holders/bearings? (20 of them.) That seems kind of low. The manual doesn't show an actual pattern to tighten them in (that I can find anyway) -- does that mean any criss-cross pattern will work? I may be overthinking a lot of this but again, first time doing this.

Also, I've replaced my clutch a few times and have a tube of this gasket maker/sealing stuff used on the clutch cover. The manual says to use it on the half-moon portions of the valve gasket/cover area though would it hurt if I used it on the entire thing? Like, both sides of the gasket? Kudos in advance!

-D
9 ft/lbs is correct. That's enough to compress the washers and keep 'em snug!

When you take off the valve cover, notice how much gasket sealant is squished into the inside of the half-moon area. I had a few blobs and wouldn't want to have that all the way around. The flat areas just don't need it...

BTW, you might want to also eliminate the PAIR valve system (you'll need some block-off plates) to free up a lot more room. It's not necessary, but makes future work in that area less of a hassle.
 
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