Please do, I didn't see anything about re-timing the motor which it seems it needs after doing this. I can't be 100% sure the chain didn't move on the cam gear sprocket when removing the cams.

Also when I measured my intake shims I was below .05mm on almost all of them. Only one was close to spec, but the torque on the cam retainers felt like it had never been changed (after 38k miles). All exhaust were around .20-.22mm.

I started doing this because I had cyl #3 going out and no fuel or air issues.. after seeing almost all intake buckets were high I'm starting to doubt that was the problem.

 

Hi Sparky,
I'm not home until late next week so I haven't got access go my Haynes manual, so do bear with me.
I think you should be able to find a manual on the forum if you don't have one.
First if I were you, as you already have your measurements is remove your intake camshaft and measure the cam lobes to make sure they are within spec (also visual check for pitting and heat scoring) I hope this all checks out ok.

Remove your spark plugs

Get the rotor marks aligned,camshaft reference points as per the manual

Screw your cam chain tensioner all the way in with a suitable screwdriver and zip-tie it to the frame, make sure this can't move/unscrew

ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE CAMCHAIN IS TIGHT!

Re-fit the intake camshaft,fitting the cam Gear into the camchain (lube the camshaft with new engine oil and the buckets and bearings)
with camlobe number 1 on the left side of the engine pointing towards the back of the bike,and you should be able to see that the IN line on the gear is going to line up perfectly with the right side of the cylinder head. the intake will lay accross all the buckets as you DO HAVE IT AT TOP DEAD CENTER down on your rotor.
Sorry, before that obviously do replace your old shims with your new shims under the buckets that give you your correct clearance (0.16 if possible,from memory 0.13 - 0.19).

Fit the intake valve retainer (lube it with new engine oil) on top of the intake camshaft and tighten in the cortect way and sequence making sure that it is going down squarely and then torque to correct spec.
Now you should have the IN line perfectly lined up as per the diagram shown on this thread, parallel with the cylinder head.
IF NOT- then just count the teath on cam chain back or forth that would make the IN line align perfectly flat with the cylinder head, mark the chain and camshaft gear at these points with tipex or something there,so you know exactly where the tooth of the gear on the camshaft and the mark you made on the cam chain will align, after you have loosened all the camshaft retainer screws, and then lifted the camshaft a little so you can rotate it free of the cam chain then rotate so the chain and gear tooth marks align.
Then just repeat the tightening sequence of the cam shaft retainer

As for the Exhsust camshaft -

First Remove the gear from the camshaft.

Lay the camshaft along the buckets so that the number 1 lobe on the left side of the engine is pointing towards the FRONT,the opposite of the intake (when you look at the two lobes, intake and exhaust it's like, if you can imagine a V twin engine)

Do the tightening process of the camshaft retainer as previously mentioned (remember to lube with fresh engine oil)
You will notice this will be a little more difficult as you will be pushing some buckets/valves downwards whilst tightening so take it easy.

Push the cam gear onto the Exhaust camshaft with EX line level slightly LOWER than the cylinder head (you may need to tap this on with a piece of wood or something and a hammer)

If all is right you WILL notice that you can't get the screw back into its hole on the cam gear (only half the hole is showing)
You SHOULD notice that the EX line is slightly lower than the cylinder head and that there is only half of the hole of the cam gear visible THIS IS CORRECT.
If this is not the case, then do what I said before (marking up with tipex,counting teeth on the Gear so that the EX line will be level,or slightly lower than the head,then undoing all the Exhaust retainer bolts and try again!!! Grrrr

Go back down to the rotor (14mm bolt) and TURN ANTI-CLOCKWISE just a little and you should notice that the cam gear on the exhaust will move backwards just enough so you can now get your screw into its home.
Put some thread lock onto the screw and screw it home and tighten to its torque.
Then rotate the engine via the rotor bolt CLOCKWISE until you can fit the other screw into its hole (again use thread lock and torque)

Fit the cam chain guide, rotate the engine CLOCKWISE a few times, double check all your reference marks as per the manual and YOUR DONE!!! Well obviously apart from the valve cover/spark plugs/cam chain tensioner and the rotor cover!

Hope that helps you mate,

Ride Safe,
Ant.

 

Awesome, thank you very much! I do have the manual, but the help is appreciated. Time to get wrenching.

 

Good luck - patience is a virtual as they say!
Do let me know how you get on once your done
Ride Safe.
Ant.

 

I know this thread is ancient, but still useful
Has anyone noticed the mistake re-shimming 4a?
It looks like the OP has used a thicker shim and actually reduced the gap further to .09, not increased it to .16.

Be careful when choosing your shims. An easy way to remember is this:
Gap too small? Needs a smaller shim!
Gap too large? Needs a larger shim!

Happy wrenching

 

It sounds like marbles bouncing around in a tin can on the RH top end side. Loudest when idling. Cannot hear when revved up. Help please with any ideas what this is and how to fix. Thanks

 

Sounds like timing chain rattle to me.
The tensioner is a known issue.

 

I have an 87 CBR that has a lot of timing chain rattle too. It is most noticeable when I shut off the bike, go into a store, get gas, etc. and then restart and do my first acceleration. My guess is the auto chain tensioner (CCT) settles into a loose state when the bike is off and then gets some pressure inside as the bike revs up and then the rattle goes away. Not really sure if is anything to worry about. I do have a manual CCT in my garage but so far have chosen not to swap it; partly because I want to do a thorough job of measuring the actual tension and therefore need to remove the radiator and valve cover; and am tired of disassembling the bike.

 

QUESTION: I see a number of different shim kits for different years of CBR 600's. They all seem to say 7.48mm shims. Are the shims the same on a 1998 CBR 600 and a 2006 CBR 600 F4i? Asking because I need to do both of these bikes and buying one shim kit seems like the way to go. Thanks folks.