in the 1st 2 race school course i took, they dont even allow u to use the rear brakes.
braking for a sharp turn at the track would be similar to a panic stop on the street.
the main thing is to be smooth. if u jam on the lever u can fully compress the shock and this upsets the traction with a second sudden load. this can cause the front end to slide out from under u like u are on ice. i know this from personal experiance. last october i got on the brakes too hard . the track was colder than i had experienced before (55*f). i'm not sure the forks bottomed, but a cold road is another reason to be smooth on the brakes. the bike washed out (due to the cold track)and i went head over heals, braking my wrist during the tumble. i was braking in a strait line at the time.
ideally u want to apply about 10% brakes to weight the front then 75%, then as u enter the corner u would ease off the brakes SMOOTHLY until u near the apex. then u would apply a touch of throttle (before the apex)to rearrange the bikes weight to 60% r 40% front. the new weight distribution gives u max traction available.
if u use the front brakes near there capacity there will be no traction left on the rear end so engine braking is not much good. the rear end will just flip flop back and forth out of control unless u are an expert at matching the rpms, while braking at the same time. this is just too much to ask from a person , in a panic situation,that doesnt practice this all the time.

as for a panic in a turn, the 1st thing that comes to mind is, we need to play safer on the roads so we are not putting our self at such risk. if u are going mach 10 around that corner when the obstical pops up u have a lot less chance of making it that if u were going a reasonable speed.
Now, if u are in that situation, u have 2 choices.
1. raise the bike , and stop as fast as u can. and yes , i say, pull that clutch in and take that rear wheel out of the equation, without a lot of experience , u are just adding another variable to try to control.
2. counter-steer and turn the bike in sharper. of course this will depend on the situation, as will #1.
i think 1 of the keys here, is that u should teach a method that takes the least amount of practice to accomplish, and remember, since most people aren't going to keep practicing as a general rule.
Keep in mind, these are only my opinions from my personal experiences .

 

Thank you all for your comment & suggestions. I love this forum & try to digest all the good stuff. Of course safety is always the priority when it comes to new/conservative riding. To be honest, I never taken any courses during my years growing up in the early 90's. My friend left the states, given me his 600 F2 for like $600. (do not recommend) I start riding without a license for few months because I was still under age to obtain permit. To this date...I've been riding for 20 years (1 lowside laydown) solely a
self learner. Now I am trying to make some adjustments to better my skill on the road. From safety gears to front/rear/engine braking control.

One long time buddy of mine said, once you have all your gears on....when such a situation does happen...there is a point in life while riding where you need to decide whether to jump, and if you decide to jump, you have to learn how to fall. Stunt man call is the 4 point fall & roll. I really don't want to be in such a situation as to hard braking front/ rear/ engine, than have to make a decision to jump to avoid a much more severe impact. So if (knock on wood) that day comes, I want to be sure I am all gear up for the jump & 4 point fall & roll.

No matter how much you read forum comment, each rider must practice to gain experience. Use what commet is workable for you in your own environment. Every rider is different, bike is different, road condition, set up ditto...new riders I can understand the anxiousness but you must take baby steps rather trying to take a big leap. Experience riders always try to improve their skill. I'm a old dog doing old tricks...takes alot of discipline to try and change.

But all the commen & suggestion is very useful, each rider new or experience must digest what make sense to your personal preference.

Ever since I read these forum comment, myself being an experience rider for 20 years I admit I still can make improvement. So for the newer riders, it's a life long journey...don't expect you'll overcome any task in a short period of time...practice practice practice...then maybe Pro-Honda will sign you? LOL...

Smart riding everyone!!!

 

On braking I can say this: I've fully compressed the front brake (while practicing) and lifted the rear (during an emergency) without locking the front. Lifting the rear was partially my own fault for a moment of inattention. But I regularly test my brakes and ability, usually a couple times per ride. I don't engine brake during quick stops but I do downshift to an appropriate gear while i have the clutch in so I can go immediately if necessary. That's me and that's while on the streets. Not on the track or riding the back roads. Those situations call for different techniques.

And if you have to jump off, you screwed up long before you decided to jump

 

thats exactly why i feel,there is no place in an emergency stop for rear brakes. if the rear tire is off the ground, what good are the rear brakes. every emergancy is going to call for a dif amount of braking, how can u possibly know how much work the rear brake is going to be able to contribute ? so much simpler to forget the rear brake altogether. IMO

 

Hi guys, first of all thank you so much for all the comments and advice, this was really helpful.

Just to clear things up, yes I was trying to downshift while breaking back and forth when going down to a stop (not necessarily a panic stop).
And yes, sometimes I did get the feeling the the front wheel is locking up, although from what i understand that was not the case... (Even if I would not use the front breaks at all and just downshift into first great at higher speeds while doing some soft rear breaking, the fork would start humping up and down really fast and making this very strange knocking noise)

I did had the bike thoroughly checked up and I`m 100% there is nothing wrong with the mechanics.

One more thing, I would not really call the strange humping I’m getting a “rear wheel slide”, cuz I tested some more and yes if i don`t match the revs, especially at slow speeds just before going into a full stop at the traffic lights, sometimes I could make the rear wheel slide a little but that is nothing compared to the experience I’m talking about in my started post.

Anyway, what i found out was that if i blip the throttle a little harder, sometimes the humping and the noise are not so ‘angry’ so I suppose that rev matching has something to do with it all, I`m just not exactly sure what is making this humping fork and front wheel lock-up sensation.

– here is a useful YouTube movie that started me experiment in the first place.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ABNr...eature=related

 

Does anyone ever felt a slipper clutch slipping? Slipper clutch is found in most sportbikes. Clutch is meant to slip, for instance when you down shift so hard, when rear tire speed differ from engine speed. Clutch slips to help avoid wheel locking....just throwing in some thoughts if this is ever a case?

 

Slipper clutch is found in most sportbikes? As far as I know that's quite untrue... The 2010/2011 (not sure about the '11) 600rr doesn't even have a slipper clutch. It was only fitted on the 1000rr from I believe '08+.

Any sportbike that comes with a slipper clutch as standard is probably a high end (and newer) sportbike... Possible more so on liter bikes.

My buddy has a K7 Gixxer 1000 that comes with it as standard and it feels nothing short of efforless. It's like a automatic clutch feathering machine and there is absolutely no jolting or bucking to be felt. I would love a slipper clutch on my bikes, especially the Bird (heavy engine braking if less than perfect rev matching and a "on/off" clutch). I don't like the pricetags though.

 

+1 regarding being screwed if you had to make such a decision to jump...it's a scary thought in such case when you have to emergency front brake(stoppie)... But nothing you can do to avoid collision.

Look at yesterday's incident in
UTAH:

http://www.firstcoastnews.com/topstories/article/218747/483/Fiery-Motorcycle-Crash-Caught-on-Tape

Looks like one of those stupid *** driver/texting or on their smartphone...did see the motorcycle? That's BS...he maybe checking his emails or texting.

It's one of those intent to LEFT
TURN coming out front a driveway. Those Left turns are the scariest chit ever...don't matter if they are coming out from driveway or opposing traffic waiting for left...

It's scary just to imagine that split second decisin seeing a car coming right at you, nothing you can really do to avoid... You either ground the bike and try to get out of the way, or take a leap of death & hope other drivers/cars don't hit you.

Seeing the video, rider did not wear helmet or any armor gears...it is understandable why he did not take that Jump rather to ground the bike but, what if he was gear up and taken that leap but other cars may come from anywhere and hit him dead one.....it's really scary how luck plays a big part....and what if those guardian angels (all this people helping) was not there.

Glad he survive such horrific worst case scenario and a riders worst nightmare to avoid.

 

Rear brake is absolutely necessary. Low traction situations (wet roads / sand / gravel). And properly used with the front brake, it will provide more cumulative stopping power than the front brake alone.

Lifting the rear is an example of the stopping power of the front brake. But it actually takes away from the max stopping power of the bike since it removes the rear brake from the situation. That's why I said I ACCIDENTALLY lifted the rear.

We won't even go into where my maneuverability went while the rear was up