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i let some air out of front tire feels heavy now ?

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  #21  
Old 08-31-2010, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by pittsm
so are you saying you should run your tires at the max tire pressure marked on the side of the tire? I always thought that was the MAX, and not to go over that. So how low is too low? Mine say 36 and 42 on them and I run them both at 25, too low?
What kind of tires...but 25 is probably too low.
 
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Old 08-31-2010, 11:43 AM
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max is usually for riding 2up or added weight/big rider, etc.

30-32 is about as low as I would go on the front, abou 35 for the rear.

25 is def too low for the front.
 
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Old 08-31-2010, 05:35 PM
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The very first thread in this "Other Bike Chat" section is an excellent read to get you headed in the right direction as far as suspension set up. I'm not the guy to tell you how to do it, lol. Make sure you scroll down far enough to get to the "Sport Rider" magazine article, lots of great info there.
As for tire inflation pressure, don't go with the max unless you weigh close to your bike's Maximum Load Capacity. All the tire manufacturers have web sites with e-mail addresses where you can send them questions about their suggested inflation pressures. As stated by randyjoy and PlayfulGod, the recommended pressure listed on the sticker on your chainguard applies to the OEM tires and may not be optimum if you're using a different tire.
 
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:24 PM
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max is usually for riding 2up or added weight/big rider, etc.
30-32 is about as low as I would go on the front, abou 35 for the rear.
25 is def too low for the front.
+1. I generally run mine at or near max, but it's because it's a heavy bike and I'm about 225lbs.

Different styles/brands of tires require different pressures. Yes, they're the same sizes, but their construction is different and the manufacturer's engineers have determined the optimal working pressures. The sticker and the owners manual recommend what the OEM tire uses. If you switch tires, you MUST determine what the correct inflation is, you can no longer use the OEM recommendation. OEM recommendation is 36 psi front, 42 psi for the rear on my 600RR for the OEM tires, but Michelin says the particular style tires that I now use should be no greater than 31 front and 22 rear. 42 psi would crash me in a hurry.
Yep, it's all about the tires. My oem specs are the same as Randy's, but the tires I'm running call for 42psi max up front. If I run down at 36 it rides ok, but way better up around 40psi. 30 is out of the question for me. Slow and sloppy. That's the difference. My bike even lists the associated tire that the specs are for.
It's the same with cars/trucks, too. I know it's an extreme example, but I run 90psi in my work truck. (max is like 110). The OEM sticker calls for 40psi max. Not gonna happen.
 
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:55 AM
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That "heavy" feeling is your first clue that the front tire is under-inflated. Running it that way will lead to premature wear...cupping and the risk of the bead breaking under braking or cornering loads. Usually if I get that feel I'm looking for a puncture.
 
  #26  
Old 09-01-2010, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by hparker619
dunlop sportmax ( maxxis ) the only one i have ever seen ....... and this tire sucks i hate it this weekend it's coming off .......... it's like riding on a log
Something is super wrong here - Dunlop is a brand of tire. Maxxis is a different brand. You showed us the Maxxis logo (looks painted or stenciled on) - there's a dunlop logo on the same tire?

what you're saying is like someone saying they have Goodyear Firestone's on their car, or they drive a Chevrolet by Ford.

The white lettering appears to have been added somewhere along the line. Go with what is actually molded/stamped into the sidewall.

I would never run a tire below the minimum recommended pressure provided by the tire manufacturer. I would also never run more than the tire manufacturer's maximum.

Tire compounds, construction and technology changes. My continentals were made this year, the sticker on my swingarm was printed almost 20 years ago. Just so happens the pressures on both my tire and my swingarm agree with each other.

If you are running a tire that has drastically different specs than what the vehicle manufacturer recommends, you likely have the wrong tire for your application.
 
  #27  
Old 09-02-2010, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky
Something is super wrong here - Dunlop is a brand of tire. Maxxis is a different brand. You showed us the Maxxis logo (looks painted or stenciled on) - there's a dunlop logo on the same tire?

what you're saying is like someone saying they have Goodyear Firestone's on their car, or they drive a Chevrolet by Ford.

The white lettering appears to have been added somewhere along the line. Go with what is actually molded/stamped into the sidewall.

I would never run a tire below the minimum recommended pressure provided by the tire manufacturer. I would also never run more than the tire manufacturer's maximum.

Tire compounds, construction and technology changes. My continentals were made this year, the sticker on my swingarm was printed almost 20 years ago. Just so happens the pressures on both my tire and my swingarm agree with each other.

If you are running a tire that has drastically different specs than what the vehicle manufacturer recommends, you likely have the wrong tire for your application.
well i don't know but thats whats on it !!!!!!!!! if you want this tire i'll send it to you ? this is the only one i have ever seen and it sucks
 
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  #28  
Old 09-02-2010, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by hparker619
well i don't know but thats whats on it !!!!!!!!! if you want this tire i'll send it to you ? this is the only one i have ever seen and it sucks
Easy - I wasn't accusing you of anything, I was just pointing out that having 2 brand names on one tire just doesn't compute. We know that's the way it came with the bike. Sounds like down the line, someone wanted the Maxxis logo on the tire - who knows, maybe they were sponsored or something.

Ignoring the Maxxis, somewhere on the tire you said it says Dunlop, and somewhere else it should have the model name - that's what a couple of us would like to know - should be something like Sportmax, Qualifier, Roadsmart, Q2, something like that. Also the side of the tire will have the min and max pressures stamped/molded into it. Make sure you run a pressure that is in that range.

The loose steering could be a side effect of a loose head bearing in the steering assembly - do you ever hear a pop when hitting bumps, or especially when rolling on smooth ground and grabbing a good bit of front brake to stop short? I was getting that on mine recently and had to adjust the steering preload - made my steering feel just a touch stiffer, but without changing my tire pressure.

Have you tried a couple of different tire gauges? I have 2 or 3 around the garage, and each one is slightly off from the other, I have heard of some being more than 3-4 lbs different. Could make a difference.

Also sounds like your front suspension is set up really stiff if you're being jarred when you ride over normal road conditions. You set a tire up for grip and load range, and your suspension up for ride quality. Sounds like you need to back some preload out of your fork. Since your bike is an F3 it is also possible you might have the rebound closed off, meaning the fork would be super-slow to spring back from a hit, resulting in what is called "packing up" over repeated small hits. It would also slow the compression hit to a small degree.

Have you tried adjusting the fork yet? When you sit on the bike, the fork should sag a little - it's different for everyone, but generally there should be around 1/2" of sag. Loosely tie a zip-tie around your fork tube - just tight enuogh for it to hold in place, and then sit on the bike. this should move the fork, and the zip tie will run up the fork tube with it. When you get off, the ziptie will stay where it is when the fork extends back. This will show you how much sag you have.

You should also be able to sit on the bike, grab the front brake and rock the bike forward and feel a decent amount of travel in the front end. You should easily get an inch of travel by doing this. If not - your fork is set up really stiff. On the preload adjusters, the factory setting is with the 3rd groove down level with the cap. (Means you should see the first 2 grooves) - where are yours? Back the rebound adjusters out as well - til you can feel a difference when just pumping the fork up and down. You should feel the fork returning back to normal position quicker as you back preload out.
 
  #29  
Old 09-11-2010, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky
Easy - I wasn't accusing you of anything, I was just pointing out that having 2 brand names on one tire just doesn't compute. We know that's the way it came with the bike. Sounds like down the line, someone wanted the Maxxis logo on the tire - who knows, maybe they were sponsored or something.

Ignoring the Maxxis, somewhere on the tire you said it says Dunlop, and somewhere else it should have the model name - that's what a couple of us would like to know - should be something like Sportmax, Qualifier, Roadsmart, Q2, something like that. Also the side of the tire will have the min and max pressures stamped/molded into it. Make sure you run a pressure that is in that range.

The loose steering could be a side effect of a loose head bearing in the steering assembly - do you ever hear a pop when hitting bumps, or especially when rolling on smooth ground and grabbing a good bit of front brake to stop short? I was getting that on mine recently and had to adjust the steering preload - made my steering feel just a touch stiffer, but without changing my tire pressure.

Have you tried a couple of different tire gauges? I have 2 or 3 around the garage, and each one is slightly off from the other, I have heard of some being more than 3-4 lbs different. Could make a difference.

Also sounds like your front suspension is set up really stiff if you're being jarred when you ride over normal road conditions. You set a tire up for grip and load range, and your suspension up for ride quality. Sounds like you need to back some preload out of your fork. Since your bike is an F3 it is also possible you might have the rebound closed off, meaning the fork would be super-slow to spring back from a hit, resulting in what is called "packing up" over repeated small hits. It would also slow the compression hit to a small degree.

Have you tried adjusting the fork yet? When you sit on the bike, the fork should sag a little - it's different for everyone, but generally there should be around 1/2" of sag. Loosely tie a zip-tie around your fork tube - just tight enuogh for it to hold in place, and then sit on the bike. this should move the fork, and the zip tie will run up the fork tube with it. When you get off, the ziptie will stay where it is when the fork extends back. This will show you how much sag you have.

You should also be able to sit on the bike, grab the front brake and rock the bike forward and feel a decent amount of travel in the front end. You should easily get an inch of travel by doing this. If not - your fork is set up really stiff. On the preload adjusters, the factory setting is with the 3rd groove down level with the cap. (Means you should see the first 2 grooves) - where are yours? Back the rebound adjusters out as well - til you can feel a difference when just pumping the fork up and down. You should feel the fork returning back to normal position quicker as you back preload out.
you are right about the tire i think i had seen that the back tire was a dunlop and for some reason i was thing the front tire was the same i'm sorry i was alittle pissed that day i had a repo go crazy and i was still mad about that but anyway i got the tire off and now i hope its under dirt lol..... ohhh and it was a "Sportmax"
 

Last edited by hparker619; 09-11-2010 at 03:25 AM.
  #30  
Old 09-12-2010, 06:42 PM
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On all the sets of tires I went though on my F2, I always used the OE recommendation of 36 rear 42 front. I've never had a problem.

I've also always used the OE recommendations for all my cars. I've never had a problem.
 


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