i let some air out of front tire feels heavy now ?
#22
#23
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The very first thread in this "Other Bike Chat" section is an excellent read to get you headed in the right direction as far as suspension set up. I'm not the guy to tell you how to do it, lol. Make sure you scroll down far enough to get to the "Sport Rider" magazine article, lots of great info there.![Icon Attention](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_attention.gif)
As for tire inflation pressure, don't go with the max unless you weigh close to your bike's Maximum Load Capacity. All the tire manufacturers have web sites with e-mail addresses where you can send them questions about their suggested inflation pressures. As stated by randyjoy and PlayfulGod, the recommended pressure listed on the sticker on your chainguard applies to the OEM tires and may not be optimum if you're using a different tire.
![Icon Attention](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_attention.gif)
As for tire inflation pressure, don't go with the max unless you weigh close to your bike's Maximum Load Capacity. All the tire manufacturers have web sites with e-mail addresses where you can send them questions about their suggested inflation pressures. As stated by randyjoy and PlayfulGod, the recommended pressure listed on the sticker on your chainguard applies to the OEM tires and may not be optimum if you're using a different tire.
#24
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max is usually for riding 2up or added weight/big rider, etc.
30-32 is about as low as I would go on the front, abou 35 for the rear.
25 is def too low for the front.
30-32 is about as low as I would go on the front, abou 35 for the rear.
25 is def too low for the front.
Different styles/brands of tires require different pressures. Yes, they're the same sizes, but their construction is different and the manufacturer's engineers have determined the optimal working pressures. The sticker and the owners manual recommend what the OEM tire uses. If you switch tires, you MUST determine what the correct inflation is, you can no longer use the OEM recommendation. OEM recommendation is 36 psi front, 42 psi for the rear on my 600RR for the OEM tires, but Michelin says the particular style tires that I now use should be no greater than 31 front and 22 rear. 42 psi would crash me in a hurry.
It's the same with cars/trucks, too. I know it's an extreme example, but I run 90psi in my work truck. (max is like 110). The OEM sticker calls for 40psi max. Not gonna happen.
#25
#26
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what you're saying is like someone saying they have Goodyear Firestone's on their car, or they drive a Chevrolet by Ford.
The white lettering appears to have been added somewhere along the line. Go with what is actually molded/stamped into the sidewall.
I would never run a tire below the minimum recommended pressure provided by the tire manufacturer. I would also never run more than the tire manufacturer's maximum.
Tire compounds, construction and technology changes. My continentals were made this year, the sticker on my swingarm was printed almost 20 years ago. Just so happens the pressures on both my tire and my swingarm agree with each other.
If you are running a tire that has drastically different specs than what the vehicle manufacturer recommends, you likely have the wrong tire for your application.
#27
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Something is super wrong here - Dunlop is a brand of tire. Maxxis is a different brand. You showed us the Maxxis logo (looks painted or stenciled on) - there's a dunlop logo on the same tire?
what you're saying is like someone saying they have Goodyear Firestone's on their car, or they drive a Chevrolet by Ford.
The white lettering appears to have been added somewhere along the line. Go with what is actually molded/stamped into the sidewall.
I would never run a tire below the minimum recommended pressure provided by the tire manufacturer. I would also never run more than the tire manufacturer's maximum.
Tire compounds, construction and technology changes. My continentals were made this year, the sticker on my swingarm was printed almost 20 years ago. Just so happens the pressures on both my tire and my swingarm agree with each other.
If you are running a tire that has drastically different specs than what the vehicle manufacturer recommends, you likely have the wrong tire for your application.
what you're saying is like someone saying they have Goodyear Firestone's on their car, or they drive a Chevrolet by Ford.
The white lettering appears to have been added somewhere along the line. Go with what is actually molded/stamped into the sidewall.
I would never run a tire below the minimum recommended pressure provided by the tire manufacturer. I would also never run more than the tire manufacturer's maximum.
Tire compounds, construction and technology changes. My continentals were made this year, the sticker on my swingarm was printed almost 20 years ago. Just so happens the pressures on both my tire and my swingarm agree with each other.
If you are running a tire that has drastically different specs than what the vehicle manufacturer recommends, you likely have the wrong tire for your application.
#28
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Ignoring the Maxxis, somewhere on the tire you said it says Dunlop, and somewhere else it should have the model name - that's what a couple of us would like to know - should be something like Sportmax, Qualifier, Roadsmart, Q2, something like that. Also the side of the tire will have the min and max pressures stamped/molded into it. Make sure you run a pressure that is in that range.
The loose steering could be a side effect of a loose head bearing in the steering assembly - do you ever hear a pop when hitting bumps, or especially when rolling on smooth ground and grabbing a good bit of front brake to stop short? I was getting that on mine recently and had to adjust the steering preload - made my steering feel just a touch stiffer, but without changing my tire pressure.
Have you tried a couple of different tire gauges? I have 2 or 3 around the garage, and each one is slightly off from the other, I have heard of some being more than 3-4 lbs different. Could make a difference.
Also sounds like your front suspension is set up really stiff if you're being jarred when you ride over normal road conditions. You set a tire up for grip and load range, and your suspension up for ride quality. Sounds like you need to back some preload out of your fork. Since your bike is an F3 it is also possible you might have the rebound closed off, meaning the fork would be super-slow to spring back from a hit, resulting in what is called "packing up" over repeated small hits. It would also slow the compression hit to a small degree.
Have you tried adjusting the fork yet? When you sit on the bike, the fork should sag a little - it's different for everyone, but generally there should be around 1/2" of sag. Loosely tie a zip-tie around your fork tube - just tight enuogh for it to hold in place, and then sit on the bike. this should move the fork, and the zip tie will run up the fork tube with it. When you get off, the ziptie will stay where it is when the fork extends back. This will show you how much sag you have.
You should also be able to sit on the bike, grab the front brake and rock the bike forward and feel a decent amount of travel in the front end. You should easily get an inch of travel by doing this. If not - your fork is set up really stiff. On the preload adjusters, the factory setting is with the 3rd groove down level with the cap. (Means you should see the first 2 grooves) - where are yours? Back the rebound adjusters out as well - til you can feel a difference when just pumping the fork up and down. You should feel the fork returning back to normal position quicker as you back preload out.
#29
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Easy - I wasn't accusing you of anything, I was just pointing out that having 2 brand names on one tire just doesn't compute. We know that's the way it came with the bike. Sounds like down the line, someone wanted the Maxxis logo on the tire - who knows, maybe they were sponsored or something.
Ignoring the Maxxis, somewhere on the tire you said it says Dunlop, and somewhere else it should have the model name - that's what a couple of us would like to know - should be something like Sportmax, Qualifier, Roadsmart, Q2, something like that. Also the side of the tire will have the min and max pressures stamped/molded into it. Make sure you run a pressure that is in that range.
The loose steering could be a side effect of a loose head bearing in the steering assembly - do you ever hear a pop when hitting bumps, or especially when rolling on smooth ground and grabbing a good bit of front brake to stop short? I was getting that on mine recently and had to adjust the steering preload - made my steering feel just a touch stiffer, but without changing my tire pressure.
Have you tried a couple of different tire gauges? I have 2 or 3 around the garage, and each one is slightly off from the other, I have heard of some being more than 3-4 lbs different. Could make a difference.
Also sounds like your front suspension is set up really stiff if you're being jarred when you ride over normal road conditions. You set a tire up for grip and load range, and your suspension up for ride quality. Sounds like you need to back some preload out of your fork. Since your bike is an F3 it is also possible you might have the rebound closed off, meaning the fork would be super-slow to spring back from a hit, resulting in what is called "packing up" over repeated small hits. It would also slow the compression hit to a small degree.
Have you tried adjusting the fork yet? When you sit on the bike, the fork should sag a little - it's different for everyone, but generally there should be around 1/2" of sag. Loosely tie a zip-tie around your fork tube - just tight enuogh for it to hold in place, and then sit on the bike. this should move the fork, and the zip tie will run up the fork tube with it. When you get off, the ziptie will stay where it is when the fork extends back. This will show you how much sag you have.
You should also be able to sit on the bike, grab the front brake and rock the bike forward and feel a decent amount of travel in the front end. You should easily get an inch of travel by doing this. If not - your fork is set up really stiff. On the preload adjusters, the factory setting is with the 3rd groove down level with the cap. (Means you should see the first 2 grooves) - where are yours? Back the rebound adjusters out as well - til you can feel a difference when just pumping the fork up and down. You should feel the fork returning back to normal position quicker as you back preload out.
Ignoring the Maxxis, somewhere on the tire you said it says Dunlop, and somewhere else it should have the model name - that's what a couple of us would like to know - should be something like Sportmax, Qualifier, Roadsmart, Q2, something like that. Also the side of the tire will have the min and max pressures stamped/molded into it. Make sure you run a pressure that is in that range.
The loose steering could be a side effect of a loose head bearing in the steering assembly - do you ever hear a pop when hitting bumps, or especially when rolling on smooth ground and grabbing a good bit of front brake to stop short? I was getting that on mine recently and had to adjust the steering preload - made my steering feel just a touch stiffer, but without changing my tire pressure.
Have you tried a couple of different tire gauges? I have 2 or 3 around the garage, and each one is slightly off from the other, I have heard of some being more than 3-4 lbs different. Could make a difference.
Also sounds like your front suspension is set up really stiff if you're being jarred when you ride over normal road conditions. You set a tire up for grip and load range, and your suspension up for ride quality. Sounds like you need to back some preload out of your fork. Since your bike is an F3 it is also possible you might have the rebound closed off, meaning the fork would be super-slow to spring back from a hit, resulting in what is called "packing up" over repeated small hits. It would also slow the compression hit to a small degree.
Have you tried adjusting the fork yet? When you sit on the bike, the fork should sag a little - it's different for everyone, but generally there should be around 1/2" of sag. Loosely tie a zip-tie around your fork tube - just tight enuogh for it to hold in place, and then sit on the bike. this should move the fork, and the zip tie will run up the fork tube with it. When you get off, the ziptie will stay where it is when the fork extends back. This will show you how much sag you have.
You should also be able to sit on the bike, grab the front brake and rock the bike forward and feel a decent amount of travel in the front end. You should easily get an inch of travel by doing this. If not - your fork is set up really stiff. On the preload adjusters, the factory setting is with the 3rd groove down level with the cap. (Means you should see the first 2 grooves) - where are yours? Back the rebound adjusters out as well - til you can feel a difference when just pumping the fork up and down. You should feel the fork returning back to normal position quicker as you back preload out.
Last edited by hparker619; 09-11-2010 at 03:25 AM.
#30