Ok members....I have a 2008 Chrysler Town & Country. Last Oct. I purchase some cheap eBay front brake pads for $25 front set. (Never do what I did)....

So I went to brake shop, they say I needed rear brake pad, front oem pads have 40% left. So I made the decision to change all 4 front & rear. Meaning buying rear pads from brake shop. So front is cheap pad, rear is name brand. They replace all four without turning the rotor, because rotor still looks smooth.

After, 5 months later, I started to hear grinding noises in front. I look at the front rotor, it looks scorched, severe lip starting to form, obvious groove..... so I take car back to brake shop. They say it's the cheap pads in front, they make grind noises...ok to drive. So I continue driving.....then I saw a brand new set of oem Mopar front rotors & pads for great price so I bought as back up for future replacement....brake shop told me I can used the cheap pad, and go ahead and grind the old rotor all the way down before changing. I was think ok, maybe 2 years or so....right.

Ok, last week, when trying to rotate my tire, 1 of the 5 wheel stud broke off. I posted a thread see if okay to drive with 4 studs, 1 broken. So I have been driving car for 1 week now with 1 broken stud.

Here is the purpose of my post. Sir Demon74 offer me help to replace rotor and pads if I was able to make the trip....very kind off demon, I appreciate...here's the thing, I want to learn DIY....couldn't be that hard? If I learn now, I'll have experience to replace for future jobs....

So I went ahead today....I got a breaker bar, got a 2 ton jack...

I remove the front wheel, I was able to remove the 2 bolt that holds the caliper to axle. Once the 2 bolts loosen up, the rotor wants to come off along with the caliper. I thought this is too easy. Lol....not so....

Then I realize ****, the caliper piston has constant pressure, so it is stuck to the rotor? Back of the caliper, there is one bolt that holds the brake Fluid line to caliper. One small bolt to bleed the fluid. Then another 2 bolt, one on top one on bottom....I thought if I loosen these, the caliper piston will loosen up but not so...those 2 bolts did nothing when loosen.

So I'm stuck.....caliper does slide circumference to rotor...so I believe the LIP of rotor is preventing caliper from coming off....my question is how to move the caliper back, create enough space so pad will back away, so I can remove caliper from rotor.

Once I can do this, some brake cleaner, install my new wheel stud, put in new rotor, new pads, DONE.....

But now I'm stuck...how to I create clearance by moving piston back.

I WAS going to PM demon only, but I want everyone to chime in....thanks in advance.

 

Put a large screwdriver in the top opening of the caliper and pry between the one of the pads and the rotor. It will push the piston back in enough to make clearance.

You should have come down and let me walk you through brake and stud replacement....

 

Can you get a screw driver in between pads and caliper? If so you should be able to pry on it to make the piston go back in some.

 

Put it back together and come visit...

 

There are multiple ways to create clearance between the new pads installed in the caliper and the new/old rotor.

One may be considered the more correct way, both work.

First way: Use a large C clamp and place the clamp so the screw side is inside the caliper, the other side resting on the back of the caliper. Turn the handle, forcing the piston back into the caliper. Remember to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and have rags available to catch the brake fluid overflow.

This helps explain that way well How To Change Your Brake Pads - Edmunds.com

Second way: Loosen the bleed screw from the back of the caliper just enough to release pressure on the piston. Using a C Clamp or other appropriate device, push the piston back into its housing. Fluid will leak from the bleed screw, have a pan available to catch the overflow. Tighten bleed screw. Once you are done with all brake work, begin bleeding the lines furthest from the master cylinder, working your way towards the front.

I might advise against using any sharp tools (screwdriver) around the piston because of the possibility of damaging the piston boot, which will ruin your day in a hurry. Patience is the key, never should you have to really pry anything with your body weight.

I am not a mechanic, but have changed my fair share of pads/shoes/calipers/rotors.

A great investment for any DIYer would be a Haynes Manual for your vehicle. They are around $20, but worth every penny, especially if you are not overly mechanically inclined.

When people ask me how to fix something, my first response is "What does the book say?"


P.S. My post seems to be for after you remove the caliper and have installed the new pads, not for removal of the pads initially. The pads should not be so tight as to give you trouble coming off, your caliper may be frozen?

 

i was going to make a trip, but with 3 girls (1 toddler) my weekends are so busy. I am only able to put in some weekend warrior time after 5-6pm...lol. then again, I don't want to bring my entire family.....LOL.

Got ya, I'll try prying back piston a bit, then once caliper is off, use a C clamp to push back piston all the way for max clearance for new pads.....

So far, I've invested, 2 ton jack $25, breaker bar $8, torque wrench $20, C clamp $5, pry set $7.....I said to myself it's about time I need to learn this brake job....

I already purchase the wheel stud from dealer $5 & lug nut $5.....I've looked to the back, and it look easy change....

All the above is less than how much brake shop wants to charge me...lol

Will go at it tomorrow night 6pm or so......wish me luck.

 

Thank you! Man...all you guys are awesome! I feel confident, I need to learn this...it will save me lots of money in my life time. Demon even offer me back me up to DIY...hand on. Today, I taken off wheel and servey my task? Look fairly easy, like I said , the bad pad created a big LIP on the rotor, therefore caliper don't slide off, but rotor spins smooth so caliper is not freezes. I'll pry back the piston (like demon say) a little...once caliper comes off, the rotor comes off easy, I'll tap the broken stud, reinstall every thing....what step should I include? some brake cleaner IDK?

Also: any suggestion on Lbs of torque for the 2 bolts that holds caliper onto axle, and how many lbs of torque for the lug nuts??? Honestly, I just purchase a torque wrench with a range of 5pm to 125lb...

 

I would look up the torque specs for your particular vehicle. Everyone is a bit different.

As for using the c-clamp, its a great idea. However, I don't loosen the bleeder screw. I've never seen a need to do so. Just use the c-clamp and it will push the piston back. The pressure will go back into the master cylinder and you won't have the risk of getting air into your system.

Also, now is a good time to inspect your caliper bolts and boots. Many times, the boots will become dry rotted or torn. Its much easier to replace these now if they look suspect. If they let dirt or water in, the slide bolts will corrode and lock the caliper up. This will create reduced braking power and uneven wear on the rotor and pads. It can also warp the rotor from the small contact area of the pad creating more heat. The boots are rather easy to change and inexpensive compared to the damage they can cause if they are bad.

When you put in the new wheel stud, make sure you have an extra lug nut and use that. Generally, put the wheel stud through the rotor, (or hub depending on type of braking system), place a large washer over the stud, then the lug nut. A little grease between the two helps as well. Then just tighten the lug nut and it will pull the stud through. Also, generally you can line up the old knurling with the knurling on the new stud before tightening it up.

Also, an air hammer works wonders for removing wheel studs.

On a side note, are you planning on reusing the pads and rotors and only changing the stud? If so, using a screw driver between the pad and the rotor won't work too well. The pads are usually damaged. if you are re-using the pads, try to find the lip of the pad and only pry there.

I'm not saying any of the above is the best way. just a suggestion of the what I've done for years with good luck.

 

+1...TY all....I'm starting now...

 

I recommend using some anti seize on your brake caliper bolts, as this will make life easier for you or whoever does your brakes in the future. This also allows your caliper to "float".

A good technique, and sign of a professional, is to make sure once everything is back together, use brake cleaner and spray down the rotor and associated components, cleaning all the finger prints and possible oily film/grease off. Besides looking like crap, it also helps prevent the grease from heating up and causing hot spots on your pads and rotors or in the worst case scenario, a brake fire.

As far as torque specs on the bolts... yes there are specs for these, and they are specific to your vehicle.

That being said, I have never torqued any bolts when Ive done brake jobs (lug nuts withstanding). Make sure it is a half turn past tight, and you wont have any problems. Just know there are specs for the bolts.

Brakes are a relatively easy thing to do on your own, but be aware of the significance of what you are doing. You and your family's lives depend on it.

And torque your wheels using the star pattern to 90ftlbs, you wont have any problems.