Riding in the rain
#12
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia
Posts: 2,473
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RE: Riding in the rain
Double your braking distances, look out "rainbow" coloured patches (diesel or oil), carry some decent wet weather gear.
Most important advice, RELAX. Riding in the rain is going to happen to everyone that rides. I've done rides where it's pissed down for the entire week-end, and had a great time!.
Most important advice, RELAX. Riding in the rain is going to happen to everyone that rides. I've done rides where it's pissed down for the entire week-end, and had a great time!.
#14
RE: Riding in the rain
Chyl... what ??????... it rains.. around Seattle ???!!!!! You'll be fine. I used to tip toe arond when it rains, but after reading alot... it seams that tires work properly when you go a head and feed a reasoable load ito them... even when it rains !!!!!!!! Many rags /forums /riders, say that the wierd stuff feed into tires steering from trying not to turn, is a goofy signal, not what the bike is "designed" to do. Be reasonable, ( once the "suds" on the road is gone) but you actualy can corner, pretty close to a normal "legal"way.
Centers of lanes , fresh rain, painted lanes, hydroplaning,esp. camber induced run off, spacing of vehicles, heavy handed brake'n, typical perils... But you do have a choice to "loosen up", lean it over reasonably, watch 360 d around you. Lousy gear, means wet & cold... slowing response time. those diabloes on special at cycle gear, on the 28 only, are good rain tires... I've read. Pilot P's are good too. Go down to the renton motorsports (w/ the indoor flat track) hunt up "august " the racer guy, and watch his rainy ride, on some really tight mt. stuff at up to 135mph, on Pilot P's... It will freak you out !!!!!!!!! He swears by 'em.
Ride'n technique/ good equipment/ experiance, is the key to safely negotiating the rain. Check out sport touring/ touring forums for tips, these guys ride through it all !!!!!!!!!!!
Clean and free, Ripp'n
Centers of lanes , fresh rain, painted lanes, hydroplaning,esp. camber induced run off, spacing of vehicles, heavy handed brake'n, typical perils... But you do have a choice to "loosen up", lean it over reasonably, watch 360 d around you. Lousy gear, means wet & cold... slowing response time. those diabloes on special at cycle gear, on the 28 only, are good rain tires... I've read. Pilot P's are good too. Go down to the renton motorsports (w/ the indoor flat track) hunt up "august " the racer guy, and watch his rainy ride, on some really tight mt. stuff at up to 135mph, on Pilot P's... It will freak you out !!!!!!!!! He swears by 'em.
Ride'n technique/ good equipment/ experiance, is the key to safely negotiating the rain. Check out sport touring/ touring forums for tips, these guys ride through it all !!!!!!!!!!!
Clean and free, Ripp'n
#16
RE: Riding in the rain
When you engine brake your using the friction from the engine that is being transfered to your transmission. When you engine brake you can slow down 3 times faster than normal front and rear brake combos. Therefore if you can slow down 3x's faster (Might be more) then obviously your going to have more friction transfer and heat build up. You can tell if your tires are properly warmed up by comparing it to the beginning of the ride, when you test the traction by engine braking. If your rear is still sliding then obviously they aren't warm yet. Give it about a mile or 2 and they should start to stick. It's simple really, don't over-think it, just do it, Nike.
#18
#19
#20
RE: Riding in the rain
ORIGINAL: ddvs
When you engine brake your using the friction from the engine that is being transfered to your transmission. When you engine brake you can slow down 3 times faster than normal front and rear brake combos. Therefore if you can slow down 3x's faster (Might be more) then obviously your going to have more friction transfer and heat build up. You can tell if your tires are properly warmed up by comparing it to the beginning of the ride, when you test the traction by engine braking. If your rear is still sliding then obviously they aren't warm yet. Give it about a mile or 2 and they should start to stick. It's simple really, don't over-think it, just do it, Nike.
When you engine brake your using the friction from the engine that is being transfered to your transmission. When you engine brake you can slow down 3 times faster than normal front and rear brake combos. Therefore if you can slow down 3x's faster (Might be more) then obviously your going to have more friction transfer and heat build up. You can tell if your tires are properly warmed up by comparing it to the beginning of the ride, when you test the traction by engine braking. If your rear is still sliding then obviously they aren't warm yet. Give it about a mile or 2 and they should start to stick. It's simple really, don't over-think it, just do it, Nike.