Dude, don't spaz -- you'll do fine. When I get a minute I'll take a pic of my masterlink so you know what it should look like when you're done. The $$$ spent is incidental -- you'd have spent that much to have a shop do it one time. So they'll pay for themselves the first time you use them.

Here's a question for you: does you have a 6" in/out caliper to measure the side plate distance? If not go get one. Lowe's has them cheap. Other than that it sounds like you got all the tools you'll need.

 

Hey chain can you list all the part some one would need because i about to do one on my bike.

Thanks
Nipz~

 

Not that much really. For me I just use the motion pro (got a link for it somewhere) chain tool. It serves as a breaker, press and riveter. Only other tool is 6" caliper to measure plates (to make sure you don't press it in too much).

Put the new chain on the new sprockets so that you can put it together in the middle on top. Make sure o-ring on master has grease on it (supplied with master link). Connect chain with master -- should slide right in. Put greased o-rings on the other side. Put side plate on master -- should go on a little bit then get tight. Take 2-3 measurements of other links and get the outside distance of the side plates. Use press to push side plate on the master. A little at a time and then measure at both pins to make sure it's even. Once you have the side plates the correct distance, use the riveting tool to mash the end of the master. Don't go nuts on this step - the ends can be cracked. You rivet one pin at a time and theres an insert for the tool that fits over the back of the master to keep from pushing the plates closer. Basically you're using the tool to press only the pin when riveting -- not the plate.

I swear it'll take you less time to do the deed than it did to read my lame explanation.

Only addition is when you get ready for a new chain, use a dremel to grind down the pins flush with the plate to make it easier on the breaker. I've broken a breaker because I didn't grind down the pins.

 

Thanks

 

Here ya go -- perfectly riveted chain ...

 

Alright, so you knew something would go wrong, and for everyone that doesn't know me, I am now officially classified as a dumbass. Oh yes, I own that title. To recap: Sprockets- no problem. If you can turn a wrench, you can change sprockets. As for the chain, I dumbassedly broke the chain in the wrong spot so now I have a male end and a female end, instead of two male ends to connect with the masterlink. To solve this dilema, I can up with two possibilities: 1) buy a new chain and do it right (upside- I get it done today; downside- $100, extra chain that's too short laying around) or 2) buy a new sprocket with less teeth (upside- $60; downside- unsure if it will work, minimum of 3 more days with the bike down, chain with 106 links instead of 108). A third option that I've come up with is IF they sell pins that I can rivet to add another link to, that would be both econimical and somewhat easy. So there is no need for namecalling because I'm already depressed (don't kick me while I'm down), simply give me your thoughts and solutions and I will appreciate that!

 

Dude -- I'd have to see that. I didn't believe it's possible to break it in the wrong place. I don't discern by male/female. You got outside plates and inside plates (with the rollers). Didn't you look at my picture? Did you have to break the new chain? Generally you order them to length. Do ya know why they're always even #'s? Because you can't break it in the wrong place.

So, let's take a breath and think. So you got 2 links down (106 should be 108). There are tricks to be tried.

1 -- will your rear sprocket slide forward enough to make up the chain?
2 -- the adjusters (each side of axle) can sometimes be turned 180 and gives ya some room.
3 -- don't buy a whole new chain. Worst case is you buy another link (the inside - counts as 2) and buy another masterlink and just run with 2 masters. Guys who dragrace do this to avoid carrying an extra chain around. And don't worry, it's just as safe having 2 masters as long as you rivet them correctly.
4 -- better yet, buy a couple extra masters and links in case you f-up again
5 -- just yankin yer chain dude

Total cost about $10

 

As for the beat down, thanks. That was nice of you. I bought a 120 link chain because that's what they had. I have extra links, I just need a new Master. As for my male/female scenario- inside links are male and outside plates are female (the males go into the females). You're pic was great and will be very helpful when I get to the riveting stage. The lesson I learned is that you have to break the chain one plate ahead of what you need to remove that plate. That may now make sense to anyone except me, but at least I know. Also, when I bought the Motion Pro Riveting Kit, it comes with press plates so you do not need a seperate press tool (FYI)(a way to save 20 bucks). So I'm going to call the bike shop and see if they have master links. Thanks.

 

You're golden and don't even know it. Just get one of your females from the leftover chain and some master links and go to town. Actually may be a good thing -- you'll get practice riveting off the bike where you can work easier. Then just transfer that knowledge when you put it together on the bike. There is a difference.

 

So I found masterlinks and they are a whopping $5.49 each. I'll take your advice and work on it. Sounds easy, and the practice will be good. I'll let you know.