Hey guys !! Hope I can get some help here cause I really need it lol I’m at a stump kind of I bought a project bike to fix the guy I bought it from had it running then dropped it and messed up the electricals now it won’t start it’s pretty beet uo I replaced
harness
ecu and now I have ordered a new kill switch to see if that’s it but I’m stumped any help for more stuff to look into diagnose rn would be awesome I’m getting power to the plugs but no spark and I tested my pickup coil and it’s good hoping the kill switch is the issue because it’s banged up but wanted to ask for more help incase it don’t work

 

Kill-switch is fine since it powers entire ignition system, and you’ve got power at coils because

Did you buy brand new OEM harness from authorised Honda dealer? If not, it’s used and just as broken as yours. So you’ll have to test and measure every single wire to verify it’s not broken and runs according to wiring diagram.





Measure resistance of every single wire end-to-end to verify it’s not broken. Also disconnect all plugs and verify all metal terminals are shiny and clean. Touch up with light sandpaper and Deoxit contact cleaner.

Measure all safety interloc switches and make sure they make contact properly. Then re-measure interloc wires at ignitor connector to make sure signal arrives OK.


Have you ever stopped with clutched squeezed in gear, then put kickstand down? What happens?

 

I checked the wiring harness over when u first got it it is used I couldn’t find any oem ones when looking but I did check all the plugs and wires before I put on the bike every thing is reading where it’s supposed to all the plugs looked nice and decently shiny nothing to bad that wouldn’t make good contact with the plugs I do no that the guy I got it from said it would blow the ignition. fuse to the bike every time he turned the bike on when I got home with it I put a fresh battery on to it and it did the same thing then I was messing around and noticed the kill switch was sparking inside of it against the handlebars so I took it off and no longer have that problem anymore I no it also needs a new key switch cause the diode in it’s blown but I sauderd a new one in and it’s back down to 8 volts like it’s supposed to be and it didn’t currently have a handle for the clutch or a clutch cable the bikes turns over just fine and I get good compression the bikes isn’t fully put together due to it being a project build but I want to hear this thing fire just a little atleast before I put more money into the rebuild part of it

 

Don’t replace anything else! You’ve got minor wiring problem. Just need to find it and fix it. Restore everything back to factory OEM configuration because bike worked just fine when it left showroom floor right?

1. Working clutch, kickstand and neutral switches are required for ignition-system to work.

2. Kill-switch was sparking because it’s trying to transmit way way too much power across due to short-circuit. Put it back on and let’s find and fix actual problem.

3. Is it still blowing ignition fuse? Need to track down that down.

Way to track down short-circuit is pull blown ignition fuse. Measure resistance between fuse outlet terminal to chassis-ground. Will be low-ohms due to short. Then work from end of ignition-circuit and disconnect one component at time and re-measure resistance of fuse-outlet. Work upstream and disconnect next component and see if resistance changes. You’ll find resistance changing to infinite-ohms (OL) when you disconnect problem segment of wiring. Start with disconnecting:

- IC ignitor, did meter change from low to infinite ohms?
- fuel pump, meter change?
- fuel pump transfer relay
- fuel pump cut-off relay
- ignition-coil 1
- ignition-coil 2
- ignition-coil 3
- ignition-coil 4
- ignition-coil subharness
- engine-stop switch (kill)

At some point, meter at fuse-outlet will change from low-ohms/short to infinite-ohms/OL. That last part/wire-segment you unplugged is problem. Then we look at that closer and measure it directly. Most likely power-wire may have melted insulation and is shorting to frame or other wire.

IF you still have short with ALL above components unplugged, then short is in main harness somewhere. We’ll have to measure shorter wire-segments end-to-end to find shorted wire.

Basically, test and measure 1st to find actual problem. Then fix it. Don’t modify system needlessly because you’ll introduce additional errors into system without fixing original problem.

 

Did you buy brand new OEM harness from authorised Honda dealer? If not, it’s used and just as broken as yours. So you’ll have to test and measure every single wire to verify it’s not broken and runs according to wiring diagram.